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TR7 / Sprint Engine Block (Distributor Mounting Plate)

Posted: 06 May 2015 22:15
by moodyblue
I posted this on Facebook last week, still unsure as to what it is and I've also encountered another problem since then. 1. Does anyone know what the threaded hole beside the distributor was meant to be for? It has a blanking stud insert on all the other blocks I've seen but this is a new block. 2. While trying to fit the sprint distributor mounting plate I noticed that it doesn't sit flush to the block as there is a lip/ridge on the block in line with the threaded hole that wasn't machined off in the factory. My old original sprint block is exactly the same. I'm I missing a small spacer/gasket or were BL really that bad?
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Re: TR7 / Sprint Engine Block (Distributor Mounting Plate)

Posted: 09 May 2015 09:33
by trsforever
Hi, the threaded hole is there as it is the drilling point for the oil feed from main gallery to lube the rear jack shaft bearing, this needs blanking of with a threaded plug locktited in place, my original sprint block has this as do 2x 1850 blocks.
The distributor you are using has it got a steel bracket (RTC314) fitted to lift it above that machined step it also puts the bolts at a different angle ( vacuum advance points to rear) a 1850 and TR7 distributor are totally different to a Sprint. Rimmers parts catalogue shows an exploded view in the sprint conversion section.
Hope this helps, good luck.

Regards Scott.

Re: TR7 / Sprint Engine Block (Distributor Mounting Plate)

Posted: 09 May 2015 18:24
by dursleyman
Not a very good picture but you can see how the mounting plate sits below the distributor.

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This is a picture of the same area on my new engine with the plug shown.

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Re: TR7 / Sprint Engine Block (Distributor Mounting Plate)

Posted: 11 May 2015 14:41
by moodyblue
Thanks guys, I'll insert a short stainless bolt with thread lock into the hole. I might even remove the stud from my old block just out of curiosity. As for the distributor, yes it's the correct Sprint one with the base plate but the plate does catch the lip on both of my blocks. I'll just have to get the grinder out and remove the lip so that the base plate will sit flush, it's only a couple of millimetres so quite an easy job so long as I keep the block clean.