tr7triumph.com

The clutch pedal on my car is flat to the floor and I have checked underneath where there is no sign of fluid.
Any ideas as to what has gone wrong and what to do for a repair?

Sometimes the Servo can fill with brake fluid, emptying the reservoir. Not sure about the clutch, though.

Maxwell [:(]

2.0 TR7 FHC \ Current
1.8 Mazda MX5 \ Current

It might all be under your carpets if it leaked back past the seals. I would check there first then you need to fill it with fluid and see what happens when you try to bleed it.



Russ

1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

OK, you have punched a hole in the throw-out bearing arm. Pull the transmission out and replace the arm. Whitevino did the same thing three years ago on the way to the National Convention.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

As per Jclay it sounds like the pivot pin has worn through the clutch operating fork.

It happened to mine except the clutch pedal went all the way to the floor, returned back to the top and then locked up solid. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID006102

Unfortunately it's an engine and gearbox out job to replace the clutch fork. It's worth checking out all the clutch components at the time and replacing anything worn whilst you're at it. It's a simple enough to do if you've got the space, time and tools as even i was able to do it.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

I have removed the gearbox from underneath the car 3 times. Twice with my first 7, because I didn't replace the thrust bearing when I did the first job, & once with this one to replace everything, along with the worn pressure plate.

The first time was funny in retrospect. I pulled the box out, & sat it on my chest as I lay under the thing, to change grip. The idea was to put it down beside me.

Well I may not have been as strong as in my younger days, but this was 14 years ago, & I still thought I was fairly strong. The box is also much heaver than the 3/4 speeders I used to throw around in my youth.

I could not life the thing in that position. Home alone, I spent about 15 minutes working my way out from under it.

I built a frame for the floor jack to hold the box in place to refit the thing, & it made the other times quite easy.

Now if only I could remember who I loaned that frame to, or if they were to return it, it would be nice.

Hasbeen

I can't imagine removing it on my chest (I'd still be there). I used an ATV scissor jack ($40) and did it from the bottom. I did have combo hydraulic jack stands up maximum to get about 21" lift and the top of the bell housing just cleared an indent in the frame when pulling from the car. Easy enough, the toughest part was accessing the top bolts from the car. I had to chamfer the input shaft to get it back into the clutch and as the throw out arm looked to be in pretty good condition I reamed of the edges of the indent on the rod so it wouldn't tend to dig into the arm as much. I don't know if it will do any good but couldn't hurt.





- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

May I suggest you get yourself a Caleb, an Abner, and a suitable floor jack.

Of more importance is adding two studs to the lower two holes on the mounting plate just like the two studs on top of the mounting plate. This will give you an easier aiming point to get the input shaft straight into the pilot bearing.

Mildred Hargis

Yes, it does sound like this may be your problem:

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Or it could be the slave cylinder rod pushed through at the other end of the fork, but the problem and solution are the same. First take off the slave cylinder and get a peek inside the bell housing. Chances are, you will be getting a good look at it later.

Use it as an opportunity to replace the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. Check the bearing carrier for wear and replace the slipper pads that the fork holds onto. While the gear box is out, replace the shifter bushings and drain and replace the fluid with syncromesh. Get a reinforced fork, rebuild the slave cylinder and install a braided clutch hose while you are at it.

It only took me eight months. But after having done it once, I'm sure I could cut that time in half if it ever happened again!


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1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

That photo shows exactly what happened to mine. Great photo..........

The metal on my. Clutch fork had worn through to paper thin and eventually the pin / fulcrum punched it's way through.

As per all the contributions it's worth checking out the whole clutch when the fork is replaced. You don't want to go through the whole operation again soon afterwards.

Adam