tr7triumph.com

Hello,

Looking at upgrading my rubbish standard TR7 front brake discs / rotors. The car is a 1981 DHC running the origional 2.0 lump. I've been looking at these but they seem rather shallow and I'm wondering if they need spacers:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D200-EBC-FR-B ... 43c53a5727

Any suggestions (I'm on a pretty tight budget!) and if these are decent what sort of pads should I use? EBC perhaps? All input is most welcome

Thanks in advance.

Cheese? Really? How on earth does it look like a block of cheese?

I put some EBC Yellow stuff pads in mine and have been really impressed but you have to bed them in correctly. I have done a track day and had no fade, it has EBC grooved disks as well but other than that standard. The bite is good from cold too. They are still not as good as modern brakes but they do keep working now rather than overheating [:)]

The picture in the add is just a generic photo of rotors. No one sells or makes vented rotors that will just bolt onto a TR7 and use the standard calipers.

I have had good success with drilled and slotted rotors in two of my TR7's.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

Dont be misled by the photo,it is probably a generic picture and bears no resemblance to what you will receive.Steve..Whoops too slow

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mine
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I can lock up/have locked up all four wheels on my stock TR7 with new/newer tires. The whole system had initially been gone over (they were 26 years old after all). calipers had new seals along with master cylinder rebuild and new cylinders on back (as a time saving) with new rear shoes. True they don't feel like modern brakes and as pointed out here the modulation feedback at the extreme isn't there. Still if you can lock the brakes the weak point is the tire contact patch. I have since put on slotted rotors (they were given to me, I wouldn't pay that kind of money for them) but can feel no difference. They may have less fade under heavy constant use but I don't use the brakes that much, just the occasional avoidance of a suddenly appearing Bambi or idiot driver.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

I found that the stock set up was less than adequate when braking from high speed.

While it was fine for normal driving around town and even on the freeway until something bad happens.

I had an instance on the freeway where I had to make a maximum effort stop from about 80 mph and that convinced me to buy the drilled/slotted rotors.

From 80 mph to 40 mph it did OK but below that I had to push with all my might to keep the car slowing down as the rotors had gained so much heat. Even with my best effort it was not stopping as well as I thought it should.

I have tried the same type of "panic" stop since with the same car and the new rotors am much happier with the outcome.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

I've used EBC discs and pads for several years and been very happy with them. That's Ford Capri 2.8i discs and Green Stuff pads, not standard ones.

Those discs on eBay aren't uprated, they are standard replacement items. The pic shows vented but the text states solid. As per earlier, only standard discs will fit inside the standard callipers. I uprated my brakes within months of buying my DHC back in '86 because they couldn't cope with the 2.0L engine.

New discs and good quality pads will help so long as the calipers and master cylinder are functioning 100%. Uprated calipers and vented discs are necessary for a significant improvement at a price. I needed to update the master cylinder and servo to power them. It depends on your budget......

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

I have used greenstuff pads on standard solid discs and they do make for a big improvement.

I have greenstuff with stainless brake lines on one car. I don't know which pads are on the second car but I suspect they are some bottom of the line rubbish installed by the po. I replaced those brake lines with new rubber. The car with greenstuff stops much better and feels quite adequate. I will be switching the second car to the same pads.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

.. 4 future Plans

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR7-TR7V8-TR8-4-POT-PRINCESS-CALIPERS-FORD-ESCORT-CAPRI-BRAKE-UPGRADE-/381175146492?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item58bfcf27fc

and Capri Disc

Bolt distance is 82.55mm

Hello from Switzerland

Frank

You will need an adaptor for the capri discs as well, I turned mine up myself from billet alloy.

And spacers to enable the calipers to straddle the thicker vented discs. I bought the whole Capri kit (discs, calipers, spacers and disc adapter) from S&S back in the day.

All went together very well, no issues.

What route are you going down Twoboys?

Adam

I have a complete setup of the S&S M16 conversion for sale. Just taking them off the car I am scrapping. Very good condition complete with the discs, calipers and hubs to just bolt straight on. I can post some pictures if anyone is interested.

Russ

1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/