tr7triumph.com

Hi,

I'm making a replacement battery positive cable, the one that connects between the battery and starter motor.

But the problem is, normally there are 2 brown cables that attach via 2 large spade connectors, these brown wires supply the rest of the car with power. I've looked into removing the connector from the old cable, but it has been machine crimped in and I can't remove it or reattach to new cable.
I'm at a loss what to do?
I'm hoping some of you have come across this and have a solution?

Thanks,
Dave

Hi Dave,

How about soldering on a couple eyelets and connect straight to battery positive. I done similar when relocated the battery to boot on my DHC, but connected to a kill switch.

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC BEAUTY FITTED WITH OVERDRIVE GEARBOX

1979 3.5 FHC CURRENTLY GARDEN ART !

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

The Roadster Factory sells new replacements that are identical to the original.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

Some motor factors or online suppliers particularly those supplying kit car type parts make up cables with crimped ends. Just tell them the length and spec etc and they'll crimp whatever connectors you need on to the ends.

The one I've used in the past closed down otherwise I'd post their details up. I think they used a hydraulic workshop press as they've never come loose.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

Dave,
the crimped connector can be undone quite easily, with a fine screw driver, done many of these, then you can re crimp and or solder the connector when on the new cable

Thanks Chaps for your replies,

Right I've removed the crimped connector from the battery lead,
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by 1powerrack</i>

Dave,
the crimped connector can be undone quite easily, with a fine screw driver, done many of these, then you can re crimp and or solder the connector when on the new cable
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Which as you said came off easily. I'm going to solder it back on to my lead, but if this doesn't work, then John your idea is plan B!

Thanks,
Dave