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Question about front brakes and Pads
Posted: 17 Nov 2014 17:06
by 76tr7rules
I had a caliper start leaking on me yesterday so I ordered a set of calipers and they came in today. Unfortunately Centric "Semi Loaded" calipers don't come with any hardware besides cotter pins, just for future reference. I just ordered all the hardware from moss.
Any way when I pulled the caliper off a washer fell out from somewhere. Does it go on the lower bolt on the back side of the caliper between the bracket? I didnt know it was there until I removed the calipers.
Also I saw ceramic pads at the wedge shop and Ive seen the green stuff pads everywhere else. Which are better? Im hoping the members will have experience with both.
Posted: 17 Nov 2014 19:27
by dursleyman
The caliper should fill that space between the strut and the steering arm without a washer. There might have been one under the bolt head. Those are good practice but not critical.
Russ
1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK
http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

Posted: 17 Nov 2014 19:40
by saabfast
If you took the steering arm off there is a thick washer that drops out. It goes between the steering arm and the hub as a spacer, although I can't remember if it is the front or back bolt of the arm. If you offer it all up square (ie hub square and steering arm parallel to the road) you can see which side needs a spacer to get the arm to fit comfortably.
Alan
Saab 9-5 2.3t Vector Auto Estate
'81 TR7 DHC

Posted: 17 Nov 2014 20:57
by 76tr7rules
Ok, Ill check it out tomorrow when I bolt the calipers back on.
Does anyone have any experience with the brake pads? Are the EBC Green Stuff Pads Better than the Ceramic Ones from the wedge shop? I really want to optimize my brakes.
Posted: 17 Nov 2014 23:03
by jclay (RIP 2018)
What ever you do, be sure to fit the thin metal shims between the pads and the piston faces, or people can hear you put the brakes on 4 blocks away. If you have already lost the shims, then use a good brake pad cement on the back of the pads.
Clay
[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],
Posted: 18 Nov 2014 04:56
by john 215
Hi,
As my learned friend Alan wisely said, it spaces the arm, I guess someone in BL got the maths wrong [:o)]
Should be a few options for materials as the standard TR7 pads are the size as other car's in the BL range.
Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1976 Speke FHC BEAUTY FITTED WITH OVERDRIVE GEARBOX
1979 3.5 FHC CURRENTLY GARDEN ART !
1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!
Posted: 18 Nov 2014 06:04
by Chris Turner
The washer you mention is very imprtant, it must be used and also on the right bolt. Its absence or wrong placement can cause steering vibration.
www.triumphtrs.co.uk
THE Coca Cola car
The C+C Conversions rally car JDG 941V
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Posted: 18 Nov 2014 13:11
by FI Spyder
I've read TR7 is a Mini, Sprite, Midget pad, TR8 is an MGB, Stag, pad. I guess they figured you don't need to use much braking on a TR7 going down those narrow twisty roads and if you do you shouldn't be driving a sports car.
OK, I don't really know what they were thinking.[:p]
- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Posted: 18 Nov 2014 17:03
by 76tr7rules
Yea the pads on this thing look like rears on an old Volvo 240 theyre so tiny its a wonder it stops at all.
What pads do you guys recommend????? I really want this thing to stop. I live in North New Jersey so that means lots of ramming on brakes, more traffic than anyone should ever see, and slowing down from 70 or 80 mph for tolls on the parkway. So brakes are beyond important for me...
Posted: 19 Nov 2014 18:59
by steve_1360
I've just put some EBC Yellow stuff in mine, I'm impressed, good bite from cold and couldn't overheat on the track. It was 100+ down to 30 every couple of miles. A lot better than the EBC Green stuff that I chucked in the bin a couple of years ago. Take a few miles to bed in and did get fade while bedding in but according to the instructions that just means they are not quiet ready, 5 miles later they were very good.
They will never be as good as modern brakes but at least they don't overheat now [:)]