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Question about front brakes and Pads

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76tr7rules
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Question about front brakes and Pads

Postby 76tr7rules » 17 Nov 2014 17:06

I had a caliper start leaking on me yesterday so I ordered a set of calipers and they came in today. Unfortunately Centric "Semi Loaded" calipers don't come with any hardware besides cotter pins, just for future reference. I just ordered all the hardware from moss.

Any way when I pulled the caliper off a washer fell out from somewhere. Does it go on the lower bolt on the back side of the caliper between the bracket? I didnt know it was there until I removed the calipers.

Also I saw ceramic pads at the wedge shop and Ive seen the green stuff pads everywhere else. Which are better? Im hoping the members will have experience with both.

dursleyman
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Postby dursleyman » 17 Nov 2014 19:27

The caliper should fill that space between the strut and the steering arm without a washer. There might have been one under the bolt head. Those are good practice but not critical.

Russ

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saabfast
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Postby saabfast » 17 Nov 2014 19:40

If you took the steering arm off there is a thick washer that drops out. It goes between the steering arm and the hub as a spacer, although I can't remember if it is the front or back bolt of the arm. If you offer it all up square (ie hub square and steering arm parallel to the road) you can see which side needs a spacer to get the arm to fit comfortably.

Alan
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76tr7rules
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Postby 76tr7rules » 17 Nov 2014 20:57

Ok, Ill check it out tomorrow when I bolt the calipers back on.

Does anyone have any experience with the brake pads? Are the EBC Green Stuff Pads Better than the Ceramic Ones from the wedge shop? I really want to optimize my brakes.

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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 17 Nov 2014 23:03

What ever you do, be sure to fit the thin metal shims between the pads and the piston faces, or people can hear you put the brakes on 4 blocks away. If you have already lost the shims, then use a good brake pad cement on the back of the pads.

Clay

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john 215
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Postby john 215 » 18 Nov 2014 04:56

Hi,

As my learned friend Alan wisely said, it spaces the arm, I guess someone in BL got the maths wrong [:o)]

Should be a few options for materials as the standard TR7 pads are the size as other car's in the BL range.

Cheers John

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Postby Chris Turner » 18 Nov 2014 06:04

The washer you mention is very imprtant, it must be used and also on the right bolt. Its absence or wrong placement can cause steering vibration.

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Postby FI Spyder » 18 Nov 2014 13:11

I've read TR7 is a Mini, Sprite, Midget pad, TR8 is an MGB, Stag, pad. I guess they figured you don't need to use much braking on a TR7 going down those narrow twisty roads and if you do you shouldn't be driving a sports car.

OK, I don't really know what they were thinking.[:p]



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76tr7rules
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Postby 76tr7rules » 18 Nov 2014 17:03

Yea the pads on this thing look like rears on an old Volvo 240 theyre so tiny its a wonder it stops at all.

What pads do you guys recommend????? I really want this thing to stop. I live in North New Jersey so that means lots of ramming on brakes, more traffic than anyone should ever see, and slowing down from 70 or 80 mph for tolls on the parkway. So brakes are beyond important for me...

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Postby steve_1360 » 19 Nov 2014 18:59

I've just put some EBC Yellow stuff in mine, I'm impressed, good bite from cold and couldn't overheat on the track. It was 100+ down to 30 every couple of miles. A lot better than the EBC Green stuff that I chucked in the bin a couple of years ago. Take a few miles to bed in and did get fade while bedding in but according to the instructions that just means they are not quiet ready, 5 miles later they were very good.
They will never be as good as modern brakes but at least they don't overheat now [:)]

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