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I want to pull the tank out of my 79 TR7 FHC to get it cleaned and possibly re-coated depending on how bad it is. Ive been reading that the whole rear axle has to come out to remove it. But then I read thats only TR8's. What is the best way to remove the tank on a TR7?

You will need to drop the axle and rear exhaust mounting. I managed without dropping the whole exhaust system. Depends on condition but the retaining strap bolts are usually rusted solid so it will all get twisted up and probably break off.
Most folks replace the straps and bolts as part of the job.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC, 1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

While some have done it with out, I would remove the rear axle. It's tough enough with it out. With it out I would seal it regardless with POR-15 sealing kit. After my sealed tank failed and started flaking off I don't trust any other sealing methods. The one caveat is the sealer needs to be fully drained to properly cure. That means you have to get a shop to weld in a bung in a corner as the hole(s) are not the low point. With the axle out you can:

1. Replace rubber bushings with poly.
2. Spray all areas above the tank with wax oil product.
3. Turn the diff upside down to fully drain the old oil and put new in (with some STP).
4, POR-15 THE REAR AXLE.
5, Polish the brake lines so they look pretty.
6. Replace the rear brake flex line with braided steel.

As you can tell I believe in doing once, doing it right, doing it once (I know I said that already).

Sealing tank slide show:
http://s119.photobucket.com/user/Spit999/slideshow/TR7/Sealing%20Gas%20Tank

Gas Tank Bung.





- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

On some cars the tank straps are rusty & not worth saving. If yours are worth saving, read on.

The studs that hold the tank protrude into the boot through the it's front bulkhead, & into the cabin by the bulkhead behind the seats.

As Russ says the nuts holding the straps are usually rusted onto these studs, & destroy the straps when you try to undo them.

If you fit lock nuts on the studs where they protrude into the boot & the cabin, you can then undo the rusty nuts, & save the straps. You have to remove the trim behind the seats to get to the front studs.

In Oz, the studs were only lightly rusted, & were reusable. Check yours, & order new studs if yours are too far gone. You probably need new rear bump stops. Even if you don't, you have to remove the left side stop to get the tank out. They are usually destroyed when removing them, so order a couple of them too.

I have not had to drop the diff, only lower it, but this does require taking one end of the brake hose off, & it probably should be replaced.

Also replace the fuel hose to the tank, but be very careful what you buy. I have had new hose crack in less than 15 months. It was branded with a top US hose brand name.

I was informed most hose is now made in Mexico & garbage. My advice was to use only hose branded made in USA. Further I was advised to use injection hose which is higher pressure & quality.

Most of all, as the dirt falls into your ear, remember, THIS IS FUN.

Hasbeen

Removing the tank was almost as bad as replacing the heater pipes and seals. At least you don't have to remove the dashboard first!

With the tank out Robsport advise getting your head up there with a torch and look for rot and rust. The tops of the chassis legs are the next ageing Wedge weak spot and some have failed their mot needing a weld fest. Luckily mine was sound and just needed a clean followed by waxoyl.

I struggled mine out past the dropped axle - but in fact it would have been much easier to remove the axle... I would do so if I ever had to do the job again.

I struggled to get mine out by dropping the axle but not removing it my exhaust was off already as I had a stainless replacement to go on. I had most trouble with the tank straps that has been stated already but did manage to get the straps off and save them as it was the rusted nuts causing the problem

If it makes you smile it's the right car

When you say drop the rear, do you mean just unbolt the rear shocks and the brake hose and then let it hang? or are you unbolting one pair of the rear control arms too? I think I may try letting it hang first and if it looks too tight Ill just take the rest of it out.

If your bushings are in good shape how much of a difference does poly make?

Also is the fuel tank hose just a regular rubber hose or does it have a fitting of any kind on the end?

Yep, just lowered the axle, but you have to remove the left rear bump stop from the chassis rail. On the first occasion I removed the radius rod from the diff, but left it on with the next.

The tank slides out to the left. The hose clip holding the fuel hose to the filler neck is simply undone & the hose comes out still on the tank. This is accessed through the removable panel in the boot.

The filler pipe extends well into the tank. I find it is easier to remove this, by undoing the 3 bolts in the recess around the filler. Once the hose is undone, & free, the long filler pipe can be withdrawn.

This should be removed, even if it requires grinding the bolts off, as it is the water drain for the filler recess. It often becomes blocked, causing rust.

Hasbeen

Don't know how others got it out without removing axle as I had a bit of a time maneuvering it back into place with everything out of the way. Can't remember what I did with the exhaust whether I had dropped it or undid rear half and had it resting on jack stsnds out of the way to the side.

As for replacing rubber bushings, I don't know how much difference it makes. I did it because most of my rubber had deteriorated to being partly there or not there at all although rear bushing seemed fine, I did it anyway.

As Hasbeen mentioned those filler tube screws/bolts are hard to remove especially as they have Phillips heads and were badly mangled by the time I got them out. I replaced mine with Allen head bolts, you get a much better torque on them for next time.





- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT