tr7triumph.com

Does anyone have a link to a 'how to' repairing the starter? I have two failed starters - both just 'clicking' the solenoid but not engaging the motor..... and the one on the car right now is making a 'funny noise'......

It sounds like the contact in the starter solenoid is buggered.

You need to remove the solenoid from the starter and open the solenoid. You may need to use a soldering iron to melt the solder on the connection of the end cap to do this.
The end cap will be a copper contact that the solenoid when energized pushes against the terminals, thus completing the circuit and directing the power to the starter motor itself.
You replace this contact and the end cap (they come in a kit) and reassemble the solenoid and starter.

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.

Yes - that's the idea! I was hoping for a 'HOW TO' video or at least a write-up. And a source of the 'kit' ?

Can't help with a video or a proper how to, as I've not had to do this for some years. The starter should be a Lucas 2M 100

Here's the kit.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STARTER-MOTOR-SOLENOID-CAP-TO-FITS-MANY-OLDER-LUCAS-2M100-3M100-/231137687516?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35d0e137dc

And here's a full starter repair kit (you may as well do the rest while your at it)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-2M100-3M100-starter-motor-Brush-bush-solenoid-contact-set-12v24v-volt-/251575867831?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a931719b7

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

Yes - that's the idea! I was hoping for a 'HOW TO' video or at least a write-up. And a source of the 'kit' ?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Cobber has supplied most of the info you need. My addition is that the cap screws are usually covered with some sort of glue that has to be chipped out before you can remove the screws. Once this is done, a repair is straightforward - I have done a few in the 1980's and can only remember the 'glue' as a problem.

Thanks for the links! It's the 'soldering' that has me most worried I think - never my strongest suit.....

You can just get a replacement solenoid if your a bit shy of the soldering iron.

But how can you improve your skill set if you don't have ago?

Here's a tip, most people who have trouble soldering make the mistake of trying to use a piddly little soldering iron, these don't have the mass to retain sufficient heat to do the job of both melting the solder and heating the item to be soldered enough for the solder to bond with it.

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.