Fuel tank replacement

[manwithtool]

HAd a small leak in mine and have decided to replace it. Dropped th erear axle and removed the tank. Axle was fine bu tthe retaining bolts for the tank straps were rusty and only got one out. I intend to take care of the rust that you can see above the chasis as it goes over the axle, treat and paint. I think I might remove the underseal above the tank location and paint that in Hammerite white as well. I thin kit gives good rust protection and makes working under the car so much cleaner and lighter.

Any advice on refitting or other jobs worth doing while I'm covered in a mix of tar dirt paint and petrol ?



If it isn't broken, I can still fix it

[FI Spyder]

Since it's rusty under there you might want to pay particular attention to where the lower links attach to the floor as stress will crack the floor if the metal isn't there. My neighbours MGBGT which was restored tore out the leaf spring from the floor attach point because they didn't address this. I just told him MGBT's are rust buckets.[}:)]

I would also paint the suspension while it's out. In N/A we use POR-15. I just like the look of a clean underside of the car. Takes care of any OCD tendencies I might have. I would seal the inside of the tank with POR-15 sealer treatment if you're going to keep the car a long time or don't want the hassle of rust in the filter. I had no choice in my case as the FI fuel tank is unavailable. While the rear axle is out drain the diff and put in fresh oil and half a bottle of STP. Make it look like below, do the job once and not have to do it again. Cleaqn all e-brake pivot points so it can act as efficiently as possible.

http://s119.photobucket.com/user/Spit999/slideshow/TR7/Sealing%20Gas%20Tank





- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[manwithtool]

Thanks...Nice tidy car there ! I did the trailing arm pivot points a while back so it's all quite solid underneath. I've had the car for 27 years now ! Never quite sure about coating the inside of the tank. I'll do a bit more research on it !

If it isn't broken, I can still fix it

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by manwithtool</i>

Never quite sure about coating the inside of the tank. I'll do a bit more research on it !
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

You do have to be careful, not all coatings are created equal. Mine was coated at some point in the past but was flaking off and clogging the FI pump screen. Which made the problem worse as it was very difficult to get it out of the tank. The good thing about it was (a) they welded a bung a the low point in the tank to drain it as the hole(s) are not at the low point (actually upper LH corner when installed), this is necessary as the POR-15 won't cure if it's too thick and (b) it prevented any rust except were it was flaking off about mid point at the rear of the gas tank where it was slightly pitted. Seeing the old sealer flake off would prevent me from using any sealer other than POR-15, even if it is expensive. Not as important with a regular tank as when the new one rusts out in however many years you can just go buy a new one.


- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[scarface031]

While you have the coil springs off, I would suggest checking out the rubber boots that they sit on, and replacing them if needed. Take your time and be a perfectionist. You will thank yourself later for doing the extra work.

-Justin P

[dursleyman]

Had to do my tank last year when it sprung a leak so I know just how you feel. The mounting studs all came out of the body but the straps twisted off. Someone had also treated all the area above the tank with a nice underseal coating but had missed the top of the chassis rails over the axle which were a bit dry and crusty. When it all went back with a new mounting kit I tried to protect the studs by covering them with a rubber tube filled with cooper grease, only time will tell if it works.



Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC, 1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[img]http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b410/dursleyman/TR7%20web%20picture/IMG_0479-Optimized.jpg[img]

[Hasbeen]

The secret with tank straps is to fit lock nuts to the top of the stud, inside the car.

There are 2 in the boot, trunk, nice ^ & easy to get at. The other 2 are in the bulkhead behind the seats. You have to remove the trim panel behind the seats to get at them. It is worth the trouble, as the outside nuts come off reasonably easily, preserving the straps, once the studs can't come out.

Hasbeen

[manwithtool]

Yep I had the same issue. I can see why the straps twist as the lock nut works on the strap not the body. New straps a good idea and cheap.

Rubber spring mounts aren't too bad. So they can wait. I kind of restored uprated everythign on this car 20 years ago. It doesn't see much rain and no salt so it's in ok condition.

I did see the top of the frame rails were crusty, I did try and treat them about 4 years ago with the tank in place. Obviously now I can get at them much better. Still trying to work out how best to rub them down in such a confined space.

If it isn't broken, I can still fix it

[FI Spyder]

It's always nice when the starting point of the lugs looks like this. That being said I did use Hasbeen's double nut in the trunk trick.

You can prevent the straps from turning by holding them with a long handle pliers. I had a picture of it but it's disappeared. Don't know how it would work with rusted lugs of course.









- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[busheytrader]

Hi,

Whilst the tank is out grab hold of an inspection lamp, stick your head up where the tank would be and have a good look around. Apparently a lot of Wedges are having issues along the tops of the chassis legs where crud collects. I swept away a lot of dried mud but it was still sound.

If you haven't had to weld in new metal where the floorpan meets the bulkhead / radius arm mounting points you're very lucky. I had to do mine with the car less than 12 years old.[:0]

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

[bmcecosse]

If it's a NEW tank, then no need for internal coating. I did paint my new tank externally before fitting - with Hammerite. There's no need to 'remove' the axle -it can simply be lowered and the RH damper removed to slip the tank in/out.

[FI Spyder]

I say that's when you should seal it (when it's new). No sense closing the barn door after the horse is out. Mind you it's going to take a while for water to collect and start rusting the tank. UK open system is worse because it's easier for water to get in than the N/A sealed system. If you keep your tank full rather than empty there will be less space (hence less water vapour) for water vapour to condense.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[manwithtool]

Keep the tank full !!!!1 have you seen the price of petrol here in the UK !

Cheaper to replace the tank...well almost !

If it isn't broken, I can still fix it

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by manwithtool</i>

Keep the tank full !!!!1 have you seen the price of petrol here in the UK !
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

It costs the same to keep the tank full as it does to keep it half empty. It's the amount you use that costs. Carrying the extra weight around lowering your gas mileage excepted. Better to remove the bumper weights.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[manwithtool]

Sorry FI Spyder.....That was British Humour, or my attempt at it !

Just in the process or cleaning everything up still, very messy job which I'm not enjoying quite as much as I should ! Hopefully it will be worth it. Got my daughter lined up to paint a union jack flag on the underside of the tank. Should look good.....for the MOT inspector and anyone I run over.

If it isn't broken, I can still fix it