Gearbox oil pump service kit

[moodyblue]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121200045466? ... 160wt_1257

Just received a Gearbox oil pump kit that I bought on ebay, The original gears were plastic I think, these are metal. I'm not sure about floating gears within an aluminium pump housing, but I suppose they should be ok. Has anyone fitted this kit?

[Workshop Help]

Actually, the original pump gears were a resin type. Their advantage was being a bit on the soft side, the swarf passing thru them would remove small chunks of the gear teeth yet the pump would continue to function. Metal gears will not be so forgiving when trying to digest the steel swarf passing twixt the gear teeth.

If you do have metal pump gears, I strongly, VERY STRONGLY suggest a super hygienic cleaning of the inside of the main cases to remove any and all swarf residing in there.

Mildred Hargis

[moodyblue]

Thanks Mildred, Yes resin not plastic sounds correct. I would have bought the original gears but I didn't have a choice. I've checked the bearing package and it's a Land Rover part, so if it works for the 4x4 guys than I suppose it will do for us wedge heads. I had to clean the rear case of the box because I drilled out a seat for a selector shaft oil seal. I'll stick it back together with a new rear bearing and rear oil seal, add some nice fresh Comma ATF and hope for the best.[:)]

[jeffremj]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Mildred</i>

Actually, the original pump gears were a resin type. Their advantage was being a bit on the soft side, the swarf passing thru them would remove small chunks of the gear teeth yet the pump would continue to function.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">My take on this is that rather than allowing damaging items to continue into the gearbox internals, the resin gears will actually absorb the metal - that is, the metal items will embed into the resin and go no further. IIRC, when I last re-built my 5-speed (20+ years ago), the old pump had flecks of metal in the gears - QED.

[Workshop Help]

Just so you know, ATF is highly detergent and will wash the swarf and dirt from inside the gear box case. Drive the car in anormal fashion for about 800 to 1000 miles then drain and flush the gear box. Refill with the preferred gear box oil we use around here, Pennzoil MTF, the GM MTF, or whatever is the equivalent in your neck of the woods.

Please remember, the continual production of metal swarf in your gearbox is constantly occurring. Regular gear box oil changes are the only method to prolong the service life of the LT77.

Since you have the rear of the gear box off, also please change the rear main shaft bearing to one that is shielded on the outside. This will keep road grit from entering the back of the transmission.

Mildred Hargis

[Odd]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by moodyblue</i>

... I'll stick it back together with a new rear bearing and rear oil seal, add some nice fresh Comma ATF and hope for the best.[:)]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Hey Moody, You haven't paid attention in class!

ATF was a desperate stop-gap selection by BL in the late seventies.
Nowadays we use vastly better fluifs; a MTF, of various brands in different corners of the globe...
Personally I use Pennzoil MTF - and change it out roughly every third engine oil change...

[moodyblue]

Thanks, good advice as always. I was surprised at how clean the inside of the box was, as you point out Mildred, this would have been because of the detergent effect. I will give it an oil change, once it's done a good few miles, but I'll have to complete the restoration first. I've always used ATF in all three of my wedges without a problem, Rimmer Bros sell Comma ATF for the wedges as do some of the other specialists. I will however look into an alternative as you suggest.

[Hasbeen]

Hi Moody. I had always used ATF in my 7s. My current 7 had done almost 70,000 kilometers in 11 years using it without trouble. When ever I was told it was not adequate for the job I would look at the 330 BHP 8, with ATF in it's ZF auto & think if it could lubricate that well enough it could probably lubricate the 7s huge 100 BHP well enough.

Then during a complete change of all fluids in the thing I capitulated to all the advice about manual transmission fluids. I used the Penrite equivalent, & they were right about it.

The box changes every bit as well, the shift feels somehow more positive, & the thing may be a little quieter.

Definitely worth the trouble.

Hasbeen

[moodyblue]

Thanks for the info Hasbeen. I'll probably change it from ATF after 1000 miles and see how it compares.

[john 215]

Hi,

USELESS FACT OF THE DAY [:D]

There was a high capacity oil pump fitted to some LT 77 gearboxes used in Land Rovers, it was for hot climate models where they ran transmission coolers,

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty Now with an overdrive conversion

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

[Cobber]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by john 215</i>

USELESS FACT OF THE DAY [:D]

There was a high capacity oil pump fitted to some LT 77 gearboxes used in Land Rovers, it was for hot climate models where they ran transmission coolers,

Cheers John
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

No, that may be a useless fact at all, if the model of Landy and relevant part numbers can be established, not only can the gearbox be cooled in our hot climate, but there must be porting to allow for the gear oil cooler, therefor an oil filter can also be fitted.



"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.

[sheetsofsound]

To revive an old thread on gearbox oil and swarf...

I affixed 3 rare earth disk magnets to the bottom on my LT77 to hold some of the swarf out of circulation. (Cost: $7.99) Before I change the oil, I remove the magnets and then drain and flush. With the magnets in place I don't know how much swarf stays at the bottom of the gearbox, but it is a lot simpler than trying to figure out an external filter. Like taking vitamins, I feel like I'm doing something with unseen short-term and presumed long-term benefits.

[Workshop Help]

Bonus points for innovative thinking. But, there is a magnet on the tip of the LT77 drain plug to accomplish this function.

Mildred Hargis

[FI Spyder]

The syncros in different types of gear boxes require different sliperyness (for lack of a better term) of the oil so different gearboxes work better with different oils. Ours seems to work best with the Pennzoil MTF mentioned (or any other that has the same properties but why experiment). I initially changed out what ever was in there (worked at 90F of Sacramento, not so much in the Pacific Northwest's cooler weather) with Pennzoil MTF Synthetic. It was better but not great so next change I put in the recommended Pennzoil MTF Syncromesh and much better (also cheaper) so have stuck with that ever since.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[sheetsofsound]

The magnet on the tip of the plug seems so weak, so I was just trying to add a little extra pull. Also, I think my LT77 is trying to set a record for swarf production, which is why I have a second box sitting on my bench getting ready for a rebuild.