tr7triumph.com

I have gone through so many batteries on my TR7! Either they don't have the cranking amps or they just don't last. I know that the charging system is putting out enough power to keep them charged as Jim checked it at one of the shows. I have tired Die-Hards, NAPAs, Interstate brands, makes no difference. So, as a last ditch effort, has anyone tried the Optima in a TR7? I have had the Optima Yellow Top, group D51R, part number 8073-167 recommended to me for the car, but he was a sales man over the phone. I have kept my charger on the current battery, but it doesn't seem to help. Since I am confined to a wheelchair right now, I do try to start the car once a week.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

That sounds more like a starter or corroded connection problem rather than a battery issue. TRF now sells replacement positive battery cables made to original specification includeing the the 4 lug tap by the way.

I did put an Optima in the TR8 which has the battery in the boot. It made a big difference in cranking power but the old battey was near the end of it's lifecycle.

I am running regular Napa batteries in most of the other TR7's which use a mix of standard and gear reduction starters with no issues.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

Optima batteries are good and have good resistance to mechanical shock. I have one in my Integra. It had a vampire leak because I had sprayed graphite into the key starter mechanism. Spraying silicone washed away the graphite and the leak.

In the TR7 I've had a Werker 22nf battery in there for 8 years. It still holds a 12.5 Volt charge but doesn't have much CCA left so am going to replace it tomorrow.

I've had an Interstate in the Tercel now for many years (don't know off hand without looking it up). I tried Walmart in it but after replacing three times under warranty with shorted cell they wouldn't do it any more. Replaced it with the Interstate with no further problems. I had to take dimensions of tray in and compare with the books as the recommended one wouldn't fit.

I would check with a volt/ohmmeter on 10 amp setting between pos. post and positive cable with key off/out to see if you have a vampire leak. My TR7 alternator puts out 14.4 volts on a full battery (that will vary depending on battery condition).

There are only a few manufacturers that make batteries for every one else according to the customers specification. If your battery doesn't last I would check to see if your charging system is under or over charging the battery. If it's a maintenance type make sure it's kept topped up with distilled water especially in hot weather and if your alternator is charging at the higher end.

If you don't drive it much I would leave on an electronic battery charger/maintainer. I got one from Canadian Tire for half price ($20). It charges the battery (orange light) then goes into maintenance mode (green light). Also senses reverse polarity (red light).

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

I have an Optima battery in my Alfa and its been great, but.. A couple of things to keep in mind. Optima batteries should have a tag with the manufacture month and year. I mention this because I couldn't get one locally that wasnt already years old.
Also, don't buy it from Amazon. I'm not sure what their deal is but their batteries have no date AND no serial number#! I had 2 of them with problems before I figured this out. When I complained to Amazon they did stand behind them and credited me. I wound up installing an Interstate battery and have had no problems.

Tony Brucia
Long Island, NY

Isn't a vampire leak the same exact thing as parasitic draw?
You should be using milliamps to check that

Hi Clay, do you still have a stock alternator in the thing?

Whit my original alternator it would put out plenty of voltage, & quickly bring the battery up, after a start, to the usual position on the volt meter quite quickly, but it did not have enough output to maintain that voltage when asked to supply ignition, lights & windscreen wipers. You could see the voltage reading slowly drop over an hour or so.

The thing also struggled to hold enough charge for more than about 10 days sitting, to reliably start, even with a new good battery.

I had it overhauled by a good auto electrical shop with no improvement. They said the thing was marginal for the demand.

When I had the air conditioning fitted I knew it would struggle & found a kit including an 85 amp alternator from a specialist, to replace the 35 amp original, & have had no trouble, even with longer brakes of idleness.

Mildred, [or was it Ghostbuster], did a post on an easy fit higher output alternator available in the US. I'd fit one of those & expect the problem to disappear, rather than my voltage.

Hasbeen

I have fitted several Saturn alternators to the TR7's and my TR8. They work great and are easy to install. You just need to replace the harness ends with appropriate fittings.

I did need to reclock the alternator for the TR8 but that was easy enough.

They all work great and have needed no attention what so ever. The wife has put over 60,000 miles on hers.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

How about adding the details to the workshop manual site. That is the sort of information we need there.

Hasbeen

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by scarface031</i>

Isn't a vampire leak the same exact thing as parasitic draw?
You should be using milliamps to check that
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Usually it's small amounts but the 10 amp position will still register on a digital meter.

In the case of the Integra it was .3 of an amp. In the case of a Dodge Van, it starts at 9 amps and goes down as a capacitor or whatever charges up but battery will discharge in a few days on a new battery. You wouldn't want to connect on a milliamp setting there. Better safe than sorry.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Hasbeen,

I edited the article, did the swap and I have no problem with the alternator. http://www.jclay.me/jclay/TR8_project.html#78

I had the article on my download page, but Google ate it.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

Hey! What do you know!

You can get to it. Click on my public folder. It is alternator.doc

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

Sometimes an alternator will happily charge the battery whilst the engine is running, but still have a fault (usually a diode) that drains the battery when the engine is stopped.
Certainly worth a check.

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.

I had an experience with the alternators on Volvo Penta small diesels, 8 & 15 horse power sail drive units. To make matters worse these were in drive yourself 25 & 30ft bareboat charter boats. The renters were having trouble with flat batteries.

The ignition light went out, [the only indication that the thing was charging], but the alternators were only putting out 3 amps. All 6 alternators on the 6 engines we had did it.

A local auto electrician made a minor modification to them, & the problem was solved. I can't remember now what the trouble was, it was about 35 years ago, but it was a simple fix, once the problem was isolated. I think the volt meter still showed 14 volts, when the things were putting out very few amps.

Hasbeen

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>

[quote]<i>Originally posted by scarface031</i>

Isn't a vampire leak the same exact thing as parasitic draw?
You should be using milliamps to check that
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Usually it's small amounts but the 10 amp position will still register on a digital meter.

In the case of the Integra it was .3 of an amp. In the case of a Dodge Van, it starts at 9 amps and goes down as a capacitor or whatever charges up but battery will discharge in a few days on a new battery. You wouldn't want to connect on a milliamp setting there. Better safe than sorry.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I thought that when checking a parasitic draw, you put your meter on mA, and put the + lead on the battery positive and the - lead on the batter positive cable. This shows if you have any excessive draw on your battery when the car is off. It should be under 50 mA

That is correct (with the positive cable off the post so the meter is in between). On "modern" cars there will be some draw as clocks, computers etc. will require some electricity. Our TR7's will draw very little as the only thing drawing is the clock assuming there is no drain from faulty parts like the alternator diodes as mentioned by Cobber. On a digital meter it doesn't matter which way you connect it as it will show a + or - value depending on which way you have it connected.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT