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Points

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
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Philip
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Points

Postby Philip » 17 Jan 2014 11:33

Is there a straightforward way to change the points ? I cant put it off any longer but every time I remove the distributor cap and rotoe arm I cant even see the contact arm screws let alone get the contacts off. Part of the problem is the big TriumphTune inlet manifold for the 45DCOEs that is seriously in the way.

Still standing !
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saabfast
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Postby saabfast » 17 Jan 2014 19:35

The rotor arm (or in our case disc) is normally not bad o get off with a long screwdriver to undo the two screws. The points are a bit more of a pig but it just needs the spade connectors pulled off and undo the baseplate bolt. As Mr Haynes says, refitting is just the reverse - allowing for dropping the baseplate screw. Use a magnetic screwdriver to hold the bolt. Worst part is trying to adjust the points, difficult to see when the heel is on the cam, then to get the gap right. I had a short set of feeler gauges which helped but it can be difficult to tighten the bolt and keep the gap.

Best way is to go through the trauma once and fit electronic ignition. I fitted the Aldon Ignitor 2-3 years ago, much better starting and running and you never need to touch it again as there is nothing to wear or go out of adjustment. Its a bit more expensive than the Accuspark but you do not need to remove the dizzy and take it all apart, I fitted it from the top. Cheapest from Retro Rockets via the states, one of the best upgrades for the 7 (IMHO).

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1 (now passed to son for his family car)
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto (now gone that others might live)
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC
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dursleyman
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Postby dursleyman » 18 Jan 2014 10:40

Best to use a magnetic screwdriver because it is sooooo easy to drop small screws or washers down inside the distributor body.

I would have thought if you have those 45's on it might be better to change to electronic ignition and you will never have to do it again.

OR you could sell me the manifold ........

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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John Clancy
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Postby John Clancy » 18 Jan 2014 10:43

I too am considering the Aldon ignition simply because now they have added a dwell angle adjustment feature. But I have the TriumphTune inlet manifold with the Webers on it and have no trouble accessing the points. I adjust them with the help of a timing gun with built in dwell meter readout and set them to around 43%. I find this incredibly easy to do although with the high lift cam in mine I have to do it about every 700 miles to keep things tip top which is a minor pain in the butt.

<center><b>[url="http://www.triumphdvd.co.uk"]Triumph TR7 and other car documentaries on DVD here[/url]</b></center>

Shauniedawn
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Postby Shauniedawn » 18 Jan 2014 11:40

Just take the distributor out - you have to reset the timing anyhow. Fit and approximately gap. Fine adjustment using dwell meter once fitted. Then timing.

If you've not got a dwell meter, then gap to manual quoted setting whilst distributor out. Refit distributor. Then timing.

Shaun

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Shauniedawn
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Postby Shauniedawn » 18 Jan 2014 11:44

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dursleyman</i>



OR you could sell me the manifold ........

Russ
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

No need - one on ebay at the moment http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TR7-2-litre-8-Valve-Inlet-Manifold-for-Twin-Weber-Dellorto-carbs-Very-Rare-/181303082887?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a36817f87

Shaun

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dursleyman
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Postby dursleyman » 18 Jan 2014 12:54

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Shauniedawn</i>

[quote]<i>Originally posted by dursleyman</i>



OR you could sell me the manifold ........

Russ
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

No need - one on ebay at the moment http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TR7-2-litre-8-Valve-Inlet-Manifold-for-Twin-Weber-Dellorto-carbs-Very-Rare-/181303082887?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a36817f87

Shaun

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Sorry Shaun, my brain was in neutral, its a 16V Sprint manifold for Webers I need not an 8V. Got my eye on one if it doesn't get too pricey.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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Beans
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Postby Beans » 18 Jan 2014 17:01

Sprint Weber manifolds are still available new.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
</font id="blue"><b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">This is a summary of my Blog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

dursleyman
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Postby dursleyman » 18 Jan 2014 19:45

Beans, yes I have seen them but they are serious money.

Beans
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Postby Beans » 18 Jan 2014 21:49

You get what you pay for ...


And the £ still is fairly low compared to the € [:p]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
</font id="blue"><b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">This is a summary of my Blog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

dursleyman
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Postby dursleyman » 19 Jan 2014 20:11

Beans, the one I was watching on Ebay just sold for £300 - way more than I want to pay for a used one.
Looks like I will be buying one of those nice expensive shiny new ones after all.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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