Clutch Fork Question

[whitenviro]

I have a low mileage clutch fork that I want to use for my repair; there is very little wear in the pivot and push rod pockets, but the upper stud for the slipper pads shows some wear. Has anyone ever tried to replace those studs, or is it best to just get a new fork? I hear so many people badmouthing the quality of new replacement parts that I would prefer to use an original.


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1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[Workshop Help]

Please, define 'Wear'. A close up photo would be wonderful. Would it be too much to ask for one?

Mildred Hargis

[whitenviro]

I can get a photo tonight. The hole in the slipper pad itself was enlarged so it moved around a bit. That wore a cut into the stud about 1/8 of an inch from where it joins with the fork, about where the top of slipper was touching the stud. The studs seem like they could be drilled out and replaced.


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1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Does it look like this? (Photo at bottom of page)

http://www.jclay.me/jclay/Triumph_TR-7.html#11

I replaced my fork arm with no problems.

http://www.jclay.me/jclay/Triumph_TR-7.html#14

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

[whitenviro]

It looks just like this:

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I tried to get a little too close, so the focus is out a bit.

And it looks just like jclay's. See the wear on the left stud. The hole in that slipper pad was also worn.



[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[Cobber]

Bin it! It's not worth the trouble, the replacement ones aren't any worse than the original ones. The problem isn't so much with the quality it's got more to do with the fact that the original design is rubbish!


"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

I think that they wear on that one stud as it is carrying all the weight of the throw out bearing and carrier. I would go with a new one also. The strange shape of the new design is so you can reach the front bolts to the transmission without removing the fork. Which of course, makes no sense.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

[whitenviro]

I was pretty sure you guys were going to say that. Certainly not worth taking a chance on it. I hope to pull the gearbox this weekend, so I'll get a good look at what else may need replaced and order it all. I already have a clutch kit and release bearing, but expect I'll need the gearbox rear mount and plan on doing shifter bushings while it is out. I will probably switch to my spare gearbox just to check it too.


[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[FI Spyder]

My clutch fork had minimal wear on slipper shafts or pivot dimple, less than that shown here. So I just put it back in greasing those points. Certainly should last till next clutch change. Can't recall off hand if I took photos, look forward to comparing next time.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

The wear point on the fork is the dimple where the pinion from the transmission sits. I am sure that is where your fork failed. Some people get a small plate of steel welded to the fork behind the dimple to strength it.

Since you are putting it back together, take both forks to a welding shop, show them where the old one failed and see if they can put a small piece of steel over the back of the dimple on the new fork that will not interfere with the clutch cover.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

[whitenviro]

Still haven't pulled the gearbox, but I have gone over my spare one thoroughly and have decided to install it. New shifter bushings and rear mount, cleaned it up, drained and filled it with Syncromesh, new clutch fork, push rod clip and slipper pads, release bearing and clutch kit.

It should be all ready; just an easy afternoon to drop one out and slide the other in. Gee, what could possibly go wrong doing that!? [:)]


[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[Hasbeen]

Every one I have pulled out has all ready been reinforced in some way. Usually by a bit of steel & some brazing.

Some of these were quite young, less than 60,000Km, so I would never reuse an old one without some remedial work on it first.

Hasbeen

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

If you are pulling the trans without removing the engine, then you will want to put a jack under the engine. You remove the starter, then the bottom bolts and the rear crossmember, Drive shaft and gear shift handle. Now lower the engine with the jack, unplug the back-up switch wires at the switch and the loop at the top of the trans. Undo the speedometer cable. Now, with several long extensions, you can reach the top bolts on the transmission.

I would also suggest that you use a piece of cardboard to "park" the bolts in (like this: http://www.jclay.me/jclay/Triumph_TR-7.html#6 photo at bottom of page.) Oh, don't forget the cable from the crossmember to the engine.

The hardest part is getting the transmission back in. YOU WILL NEED HELP! And several jacks, but it can be done by one determined person! It has to be perfectly aligned before it will slide in.



Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by whitenviro</i>


It should be all ready; just an easy afternoon to drop one out and slide the other in. Gee, what could possibly go wrong doing that!? [:)]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

On a major job like this I always allow weeks. (I don't like rushing). This was my solution. I got about 20" - 21" of lift out of my jacks and it just cleared a notch in the frame about half way back. One man job but I have to agree with jclay about perfect alignment. I beveled the input shaft to get it started into the bushing.





- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[Workshop Help]

Here's a better installation hint. Add two studs to the bottom of the engine mounting plate. The gearbox can then be guided correctly into alignment much easier.

Mildred Hargis