Anonymous

How hot to warp head?

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
Post Reply
trekcarbonboy
Swagester
Posts: 940
Joined: 18 Oct 2010 15:38
Location: USA

How hot to warp head?

Postby trekcarbonboy » 14 Jan 2014 18:16

I recently realized that the minor leak that I thought was coming from the intake manifold o-ring is actually coming from between the head and block. Which begs me to ask how hot does the engine need to get to warp the head? Fortunately no water in the oil or vice-versa.

I installed a new radiator a few months ago with an electric fan. In testing to see when the fan would actually kick on it was at about 7/8ths on the temp gauge. I don't have a way to test the actual temp but the sensor was rated to activate at 185 degrees. Is this too high or was it perhaps a faulty sensor?

I'm pondering the fact that this may have caused the leak and am hoping the head is not warped. Hopefully its just a coincidence that its leaking now and there's no real problem. Either way the head is coming off to hopefully just replace the gasket.

I had the head off 10 years ago and hopefully it's just as easy this time. Will also be installing a manual fan switch.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

After proof-reading this post before posting it's apparent that I am quite "hopeful". [:I]

Craig '75 2.0 FHC
ImageImage

saabfast
TRiffic
Posts: 1936
Joined: 03 Feb 2006 08:17
Location: Bexhill-on-Sea

Postby saabfast » 14 Jan 2014 18:46

185 deg is 85 deg C so not too high, around thermostat open temp. If it is a very small leak a torque down of the head might do it but probably better to change the HG before it goes any further and the wrong things mix.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1 (now passed to son for his family car)
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto (now gone that others might live)
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC
Image

FI Spyder
TRemendous
Posts: 8920
Joined: 03 Jul 2006 19:54
Location: Canada

Postby FI Spyder » 14 Jan 2014 19:25

Pay the extra money for a quality head gasket like a payen rather than a cheap generic one. It'll cost $20 more but worth it. BPNW is out of stock but maybe not for long. Example:

http://www.bpnorthwest.com/triumph/tr7-tr8/engine-gaskets-seals.html

You can get infrared thermometers pretty cheap these days at the discounters and on sale. Cheaper than a machined head.[:p]

You won't know for sure until you get the head off and do a close inspection and put a straight edge on it. The gasket could have just given way.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
Image

john 215
TRemendous
Posts: 6867
Joined: 03 Dec 2006 17:12
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:

Postby john 215 » 15 Jan 2014 05:13

Hi,

You should be ok, but if do pull the head and need to skim it there are thicker head gaskets available.

I have always run a manual override switch on my fan's on the 7's I have owned. On my DHC the fan is controlled by switching the earth on the relay, I use a sensor in the top hose and a A/C switch in the centre console ( car not actually fitted with A/C ) so avoiding a non standard switch !

Cheers John

ImageImageImage Image
LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty Now with an overdrive conversion

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

windy one
Swagester
Posts: 840
Joined: 27 Oct 2008 19:57
Location: USA
Contact:

Postby windy one » 23 Jan 2014 16:22

Quite possibly may just be faulty head gasket. I am having a similar prob. Original head gasket started weeping. Im just going to pull the head and replace the gasket (with the thicker one as per Woody). I have no water in oil or vise-versa. Good Luck!

Johnny

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 34 guests