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I have made a bar that fits across the strut towers to which I intend to fasten the engine.I have removed both struts.It looks like by disconnecting the steering shaft and the engine mount it should be possible to remove the subframe complete with the rollbar and track arms.Is this do-able or have I missed something?Steve..

If just the sub is getting removed, I supported the motor with a couple of blocks of wood

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

Taking the subframe off is quite easy without the need to use the bar you have made

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I used 4 axle stands under the chassis rails allowing enough space to drop the subframe.
Using a trolley jack with block of wood - place it under the sump pan support at the rear of the engine leaving enough room to get to the engine mount on the subframe.

Removing each strut individually as you have done is best then , hang up the steering rack attached to the steering column.
Also found it easier to remove the anti -roll at & links for the control arms too. Then just drop the subframe by supporting to another trolley jack & pull out when the bolts are removed.
Keep the spacers & washers for each subframe separate ie take a photo of each as they come off as the front are different to the back ones.
It can be done in a single garage as per picture.

On mine I pulled with the rack
I changed the rack from power to manual when I did it.
Powder coated the sub at the same time

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

I have twice had to remove the sump off the 8. Once to do some work on it, & once to find out how water was getting into the sump. I had to borrow an engine crane each time, as the roof of my shed is unsuitable to support the engine.

A bar across the towers would have to be bent up in the middle to clear the plenum, but sounds like a good solution to me. Wish I'd thought of it.

Hasbeen

H- Pulled the sump off of mine twice.
Didn't touch the engine
...well, that's not quite correct. you do have to lift the front and I used a jack.
Helps to have the crank in the correct orientation

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

Ditto. I had the whole front end off, subframe, steering box, struts, etc. to replace gators (steering and shock), paint parts, ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks, new springs, the whole ball of wax while I had everything out. As per manual everything was supported by jack and block of wood under engine stiffener (plate between engine and transmission. Car was on jack stands.







- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

I raised the car to get under it, supported the engine, then lowered the subframe.

How did you support the engine with a lack when you have to take the sump off.

Hasbeen

I used one of these on my TR8:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-ca ... 96524.html

Handy because you can use it to raise the engine a bit, which you need to do to get the header on the right side.

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

And when you use a trolley jack you can simply drag it from the car or position it back underneath ...



Darrell's suggestion is a good one though, very hand piece of kit.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
</font id="blue"><b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

I thought every one had one of these.[:p]



I would have not thought of preassembly, Beans, looks like cheating.[:p]

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Beans, Interested in the extra cross member for the anti-roll bar, how much difference do you notice with it?

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

The handling was sharpened up a little bit.
It is more precise under changing loads (like cornering or braking)

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
</font id="blue"><b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Thanks for the input.Getting tired of welding I am trying to multitask by refurbing all the suspension components so they will be nicer to replace.Thanks Steve..

32 years of corrosion and neglect conspired to prevent removal of subframe tonight.The engine mount took an hour at least to remove.How could anything so oily still be so rusty?Wire brushed rust from the threads of the subframe/body mounts soaked in penetrating fluid and called it a day.Tomorrow beckons..Steve..