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Fuel injection tr 7- 2.0

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
caferc
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Fuel injection tr 7- 2.0

Postby caferc » 26 Dec 2013 20:54

Any know if there is another ECU( computer ) that can be used in the TR7
thx
CAferc

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 26 Dec 2013 23:20

Don't think so. The TR7 used two different ECU's (depending on build date) that where incompatible. You find them on eBay from time to time but you have to match part numbers. Don't know of anyone can repair a bad one. Perhaps some one can suggest some one.

As an aside;
The TR8 guys used to have a kid in Hi School that would repair their but he quit when he went on to College. They were told by a Rover technician that they could use a Land Rover one if a land was cut. Don't know if they ever pursued it, last I heard they were trying to see if they could get money together to buy one and see if it would work.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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whitenviro
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Postby whitenviro » 26 Dec 2013 23:52

Try contacting Jim Tencate at the Triumph Wedge Owners Association. He and Michael Hart have been working on a set of diagnostic tools for the ECUs and gave a tech session about it at Triumphest this year. They may know of replacement alternatives or be able to check out your current unit.

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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 27 Dec 2013 00:44

We never got injected 7s, so don't know anything about them.

However if the Rover one can substitute, there are plenty of options for the RV8.

We recently converted the 4.6L to the latest Haltech unit. Where the old one still has distributor ignition, & the computer only controlled the injection, the new one does it all, [after a few modifications], & does it beautifully.

There are many others, if you want to go that far.

Hasbeen

TR Tony
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Postby TR Tony » 27 Dec 2013 08:47

Yes get in touch with Jim Tencate through this forum or through http://www.triumphwedgeowners.org/

The TR7 used a "standard" analogue Bosch L Jetronic 4 cylinder ECU, & I am sure I have read that the Bosch ECU from other contemporary cars can be used in the TR7 - a VW car of the era springs to mind. There is a link from the TWOA website to a parts cross reference page although the link appears to be down at the moment.

The TR8 by contrast used a Lucas digital ECU with a Bosch L Jetronic EFI system & so cannot be substituted except by another Lucas RV8 ECU from that era, such as from the Range Rover or Rover SD1.

Tony
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<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

Beans
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Postby Beans » 27 Dec 2013 13:02

Or use a modern after market ECU from the likes of Emerald/DTA/<s>Montronic</s> that should read KMS.
At least that is what I <s>would</s> will do with the DHC's engine and the FI system I have.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
</font id="blue"><b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Cobber
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Postby Cobber » 27 Dec 2013 13:18

I agree with our learned friend Beans, why buggerise around with old backward technology like old style ECUs? Go for something like an Emerald ECU, you'll be better of in the long run, better economy, more useable power and torque all through the range, where you use and want it.


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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 27 Dec 2013 23:19

You didn't say why you wanted to use another one, does the one you have not work? There is a sticky up above discussing FI problems. Or did you just want something more modern as Cobber suggested.

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Postby Marko » 28 Dec 2013 12:01

if you plan to keep the distributor even the cheapest SA ECU like megasquirt will work better than the stock ECU

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Postby zekow1 » 30 Dec 2013 17:30

HI Guys.
I found this guys to be very helpful[;)] with fuel pumps and airflow meters . he is very reasonable in price.
Give him a call he might be able to help or at least inform you.
Happy holidays guys
http://www.fuelinjectioncorp.com/products/ecu.php

Started on 07 2008 still needs tweaking
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frankman
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Postby frankman » 03 Jan 2014 08:21

Hi Caferc .. you could try an Saab ECU the first without DI / APC as far as I know do you have a 2 Line connector (newer have 3 Line) ..

Here some Links

http://web.archive.org/web/200404061251 ... /saab/ecu/

http://www.electronikrepair.com/page7.html

Hello from Switzerland

Frank

caferc
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Postby caferc » 09 Feb 2014 21:22

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by caferc</i>

Any know if there is another ECU( computer ) that can be used in the TR7
thx
CAferc<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Thank you all for replying to my question re: the ECU for the TR7.
1st- I think my unit is failing, it was a ok two months ago, now it won't hold idle(900)once its warmed up. I checked and replaced emission hoses, sealed plenum hoses, replaced fuel injectors. To add it stumbles on acceleration. So I will contact those individuals you guys suggested and go from there.
Will keep everyone posted

Many thanks- again

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Postby HDRider » 10 Feb 2014 00:11

Did you replace the Oxygen sensor?

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 10 Feb 2014 14:12

A couple things that are often glossed over on high idle (other than air leaks into the intake manifold which you seem to have addressed) and that is the sensors. The voltage/circuits are low values so any sensor connections (including connector to ECU) must be clean and not oxidized in any way. Clean then with contact cleaner (not just a solvent) to make sure there is no voltage drop across them. I like to gingerly use an old toothbrush to help it along. First sensor is the thermo time switch which turns on the cold air injector when the engine and air is cold. It's working or you wouldn't be able to start the car from cold. It turns itself off by way of electrical heating coil in a handful of seconds (depending how cold it is). If it didn't the cold air injector would continue to run keeping idle high. However, there is a secondary sensor which is the temp sensor that measures coolant temp that also controls the cold air injector, keeping it off when the engine is warm and the cold air injector is not needed to start the car. It's other function is to keep the main injectors open a little longer by feeding a signal to the ECU until the engine warms up. If the signals are off either because of faulty signals/dirty connections you could get high idle. While you can measure resistances etc. substituting these two sensors with new can pin point a bad sensor. Once warmed up the idle is set by a lock nut/bolt by the butterfly valve in the throttle body.

So clean contacts (almost free and should be done anyways), see if you can set adjustment on throttle body (free), Temp sensor (not temp gauge sensor) smaller cost, maybe even thermo tome sensor switch (a little higher cost). I'm not sure about oxygen sensor as it's a fine tuning device, pretty reliable and replaced at a predetermined interval, some L jetronic systems didn't even have it (BMW etc)although shouldn't be ruled out. ECU lastly. The ECU's are Bosch and pretty reliable, the TR8 ones from Lucas not so much (what else is new?)



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HDRider
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Postby HDRider » 10 Feb 2014 15:04

The oxygen sensors do indeed wear/burn out and need to be replaced at regular intervals hence the Smith's counter on the wheel well. If it fails then it defaults to full rich mixture. They are easy to replace and only cost about $25 here.

You can use a regular wrench to remove but a purpose built wrench is easier. They are available at Harbor Freight or most other automotive tool suppliers. Oxygen sensors are all one standard size by the way.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

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