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Shaken or Stirred?

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
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Col_Callan
Wedgling
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Joined: 31 Mar 2009 11:38
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Shaken or Stirred?

Postby Col_Callan » 30 Oct 2013 10:38

Hi there,
As a child of the 60's and hence a driver of the 70's, pancake filters and the associated noise and style benefits always outweighed the truth that designers generally know what they are doing even BL ones. Whether it was putting expansion pipes on Jap 2 stokes or cherry bombs on ratty cars, look and sound was king, and to hell with perceived performance.

So when I got my TR it was K&N pancakes, lots of farting around with needles etc and the added bens of doing away with the air box and the weight it bore on the carb mounts - which split twice on me.

Now I think Im getting old/wise - Having read lots of posts from many much more learned members I am meeting it in the middle - Alloy carb mounts from the Dolly owners club, so no splitting there, and a return to the airbox / cold feed after reading Mildreds great argument for it. (Its in my Evernote folder now - highest accolade I can give)

My question is will the solid mounts result in any effect on the fuel / mixture in the carb through vibration?

Now please stay clear of the idea of sticking with the pancakes as Mildred has sold me on the air box already - Cold air we have a-plenty in Moffat (Scotland) , but heat is scarce so I need to cosset the carbs best I can.

So what will "normal vibration" & /shaking do to my car's behaviour (and do I need ice and an olive in it?)

Col Callan
Moffat. Scotland.
81 Tr7 fhc- Spend spend spend.....
74 Dolly Sprint. - On the mend...
85 Kawasaki Gpz1000Rx...round the bend

Workshop Help
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Postby Workshop Help » 30 Oct 2013 13:17

There will be no adverse effect using the alloy carburetor mounts. Other than a matter of using what was in the parts bin, I have yet to comprehend why the rubber mounts were used in the first place. The engine jiggle effects on the fuel in the float bowls will be the same with or without the rubber mounts. Other than a slight reduction in heat transfer from the intake manifold, I have no idea why they're used.

That said, for those ever optimistic souls installing NEW carburetor mounts that WILL split apart, please do the smart thing by installing two large hose clamps around the manifold and that sheet metal crossbar. This will provide strength to the mounts keeping them from having to support the weight of the carburetors and air box. Some folks hereabouts have used nylon ties but these are a bit weak in the muscle department compared with the metal hose clamps.

Here is a photo showing the clamps installed.

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The very last thing I need on a cold, rainy night are for the carburetors to fall off. I might then have to use some most unfeminine technical language to express my opinion.

Mildred Hargis

DNK
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Postby DNK » 30 Oct 2013 14:50

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Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants
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Col_Callan
Wedgling
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Joined: 31 Mar 2009 11:38
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Postby Col_Callan » 31 Oct 2013 10:28

Many thanks Mildred ! Much appreciated.

Col Callan
Moffat. Scotland.
81 Tr7 fhc- Spend spend spend.....
74 Dolly Sprint. - On the mend...
85 Kawasaki Gpz1000Rx...round the bend

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 01 Nov 2013 16:54

I don't know of any other application where SUs are mounted on rubber.... Certainly Weber DCOE is required to be mounted with a rubber O ring in place to 'prevent frothing' in the float chamber..... And so far my rubber mounts don't seem to have split - but I will definitely be going for the supportive metal clamps ! Thanks 'Mildred'.....and yes - most pancakes actually lose power - mainly because most have the flat face far too close to the carb inlet flange face.

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