tr7triumph.com

Installed a header into the DHC along with a new exhaust the rest of the way back. I'm very pleased with the performance but the fit was not great. One pipe would not clear the sub frame and even with a few whacks of the hammer it is still very close. I think it may be hitting periodically when I get on throttle. I don't want to remove it again and increase the dent size. Just as an experiment I taped a piece of hard rubber there which quieted it down but as expected melted. Has anyone found a material that would stand up to the heat and act as a suitable bump stop?

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

I'm looking for something similar for the headers on my TR8, one side comes really close to the bell housing. I don't think it has hit, but would be nice to have something. I was thinking about a wad of header wrap, but something that wouldn't soak up oil would probably be better.

Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

You might try placing a pad under one or both of the motor mounts to lift the entire engine away from the sheet metal.

Or, you can take the shebang apart, step on down to the local muffler shop, and have the offending tube heated and bent to fit.

Mildred Hargis

Nick, mine was vibrating too. I had then replaced the tired mounts (including the "k-frame" ones too and no rattle. Denting the runners kind of defeats the purpose I think. Perhaps heat and an experienced muffler shop is your best bet.

I like the idea of raising the motor mount, but in my case the contact is on the side of the subframe so raising it wouldn't work.

Heating and bend would be good but the shop that installed it along with the entire exhaust system used a hammer on it so I don't have much confidence they could help out.

I like the idea of wrapping it with some asbestos (oops, I said a dirty word) type material. There is clearance there so it hitting only occasionally and very lightly.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC

Not unusual for headers to hit something in a TR7 necessitating to bang in a dint in one to clear.

A club member put in a SS tuned header (a bit of spaghetti routing) from S&S. I was surprised it didn't hit anything.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

All tubular headers seem to be a bit different. The one on mine when I bought it had a large stainless jubilee clip around it squeezing the tubes together, but seem OK for all that - until it blew holes in both 'Y' pieces. I bought another 2nd hand one. THs fitted OK without squeezing the tubes but seemed shorter in the drop, to the extent that the bracket on the bell housing is touching the exhaust pipes and the bolt holes are about 1" out of line with the bracket on the exhaust. I gave up trying to get it bolted there and relied on the other supports. It is nice and tight along under the body though.

Incidentally, it had been cut down about 2" for some reason so when fitted the rear section was pulled forward and rubbed on the handbrake cable. Looking around I found an SS extension piece expanded one end to suit a 2" exhaust on ebay from Tube Fabrications. Only cost £6.95 and was so beautifully made it was a shame to put it in the middle of an exhaust pipe, but worked well.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto (now gone that others might live)
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

Got piece of heat resistant cloth about 4ftx4inches and attempted to wrap the offending pipe. But the pipes are so close together I could only get one layer on. So I placed 4 layers of the stuff between the pipe and the frame and used a hose clamp around the pipe to hold it on. It's a prototype and I hope to come up with a more elegant fix later.

[img][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/nickmi/TR7%201975/Yellow.jpg[/img]
nick
'79 TR7 DHC
'76 TR7 FHC