Sticky broken bolt

[sunnie]

Hi all
As you can see from the pic does anyone have a good idea on how to remove the broken bolt.
I have welded a nut on too it and have tried various lotions

Am getting exasperated about it.
Do not want to take out the motor if i can help it.

The bolt is of course the one at the back



After welded nut





Not a lot of room to drill the bolt so that is why i am looking for ideas. Have tried a few different lubes.
My last resort afore i try to drill is a pair of multi grips and some material between and try that but again i am open to good ideas.

Damm close to putting the car back together.
So annoying.
Thanks Sunnie

[john 215]

Hi,

Get the manifold out of the way, heat the head up GENTLY in that area and with a nut welded on the top of the broken stud, it should come out. At a guess it may damage the threads though, so a heli coil may be requires

Good luck,

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

[Cobber]

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">Seeing as it's the cylinder head which is alloy, I would be VERY careful using heat.
Get the damned manifold right out of the way to give yourself enough room to work.
As it's just the head of the screw that's sheared off and there is some of the shaft of the screw exposed I suggest a stud removal tool, such as these:
Simply place it over the broken screw and undo.</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">



"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[Hasbeen]

I think that is one where you can use a nut & bolt if you damage the thread.

I think getting the manifold out of the way & welding on a nut is the best way. let the bolt cool completely before trying to remove. If you could find some dry ice to chill the bolt, while warming the head it might help too.

Hasbeen

[sunnie]

Ta all
Yea have done the welding thingy but it is not working
I mean i used 2 rods so far and have had the bolt glowing red and still no movement
But ta all

@ Cobber that looks like the best way to go
Suggestion for best place to buy one/set

i was thinking trade tools but i am open to suggestions unless its ya cousins shop LOL

Yea remove the manifold
I was trying to take the path of least resistance but again thank you all for your suggestions

And the thing is i have all the parts to complete the job and money and time and this is the hold up so far
Even have the RWC ready Nudge Nudge

Sunnie

[Beans]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Hasbeen</i>

... I think that is one where you can use a nut & bolt if you damage the thread ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Correct, looks bloody awful, but does the job very nicely ...

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[Cobber]

I see your in Brisvegas so it's probably a bit far to come and borrow mine!
I don't remember where I got them probably Total Tools.
I have seen them on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/STUD-REMOVER-SET-4PC-SUIT-6-8-10-12mm-STUDS-HDUTY-/300991270898?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item46147a4ff2

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hans-METRIC-6-8-10-12-STUD-Remover-Puller-Socket-Set-1-2-Drive-Professional-/350886005036?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b26f892c

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hans-AF-1-4-5-16-3-8-7-16-Stud-Remover-Socket-Set-1-2-Drive-Professional-/350886011827?pt=AU_HeavyMachinery&hash=item51b26fa3b3




"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[FI Spyder]

Stud removal tool as suggested (there are different types, basically they tighten on the stud the more torque you put on them). You basically want the bolt as cold as possible (you can buy an aerosol can that freezes what it's sprayed on) and the head as warm as possible (not too hot as it's the head and you don't want localized heat). If there's room to get an air gun in there (may require you to remove exhaust manifold), the vibration of it will help bang it loose. If you don't have a compressor they are available in electric versions for cheaper. One of the handiest tools to have.


- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Spray the bolt with DB Blaster from the back (where the hole is showing above on the head) several times for a couple of days. Then, Get the freezing spray that Spyder was talking about. Spray the whole area for at least a minute, then use the stud extractor with a long break-over bar on the bolt.

This is the only way to remove the bolts holding on the rubber covers on the US bumpers without breaking them.

Clay

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[kstrutt1]

I have small blowlamp similar to the kitchen ones which gives a small sharp flame, use something like this to locally heat the alloy, it won't take much to expand it.
I got the sheared studs out of some morris minor boot hinges like this with no damage whatsoever.

[FI Spyder]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jclay</i>


This is the only way to remove the bolts holding on the rubber covers on the US bumpers without breaking them.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My front bumper ones came right out as they weren't rusted. I suspect I won't be as lucky on the back bumper when I hopefully get to it this winter. (Just been too sunny to do anything yet).

I know I'll have to use it on Yellow TCT as I broke first one off (got a rude awakening after being so successful on Spider).



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT