tr7triumph.com

Here we go,
long story short,recommisioning my engine,question regarding the setup timing marks,
i have removed the valve cover and lined up the casing marks,
had previously remarked the pulley mark with fresh paint,and cleaned the engine scale to see the graduations for 0 btdc,
ok two things found,the distributor was pointing at the bulkhead(wierd)and the scale on the engine was reading four degrees before,
have after many hours managed to free the dizzy and remove it,
cleaned and refitted to point at the manifold bolt,checked the firing order(anticlockwise)and that the engine was still at btdc,
so heres my dilema,
with the timing mark being out four degrees from btdc,the dizzy advance unit has to be well forward to get my twelve degrees timing,
iam assuming that i will have to rotate either the bottom pulley or the top sprocket to make the timing mark line up to btdc.
which would you reccomend and how difficult is it to do,
happy to listen to any suggestions members may have,
regards jiffy

Hi Jiffy,

So if you have the cam shaft timing mark lined up ( as shown below ) the crankshaft pulley does not line with TDC [?] then your cam timing is out.




You need to correct this first before anything else.


Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

ok i lined up the marks on the casing and valve cam,then when i looked down at the engine scale at the pulley,it was showing four degrees before,
NOT at tdc zero,
what can i adjust? presumably one or the other of the pulleys has to be moved to make it line up,

Hi Jiffy,

What work have you done or have any info history of work being carried out on this engine ?

You are correct, the chain will need removing of at least one of the gears, everything lined up and refitted. The question is how this has occured, incorrect assembly, worn guides / tentioner or stretched chain. The other poss is that the crankbolt is or has been loose allowing it to move on the crank therefore wearing both itself and / or the woodruf key.

Once this has been corrected then we can worry about the dizzy postion.

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

no history on the car,except reciepts for m.o.t work,it has been dry stored for 11 years,
looks like its back to the 1980s for me,
i thought the days of rebuilding engines were long gone,
ime going to get the haynes out(ye oldie book of lies)and refresh my skills,guess whose going to be playing with jackshafts and tensioners this week,
good suggestion about the crank woodruff,would have never thought of that one,
good news all the electrics are working now after doing all the earths and cleaning the switches,
well all except the reversing lights,think that thats the switch havent been under yet to do a volts test,
ille keep you all posted how it goes i promise
Jiffy

Hi Jiffy,

Rebuilding modern engines is largly a thing of the pass in a lot of ways do to labour rates, we replace a engine if we have two out of these three damaged -

Cylinder block
Cylinder head
Crankshaft

Or it gets rebuilt, M Power engines can be the best part of 30K new [:0]

Replaced the chain on my FHC details in my blog, will update later resetting the tentioner later.

<font color="blue">http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16017&whichpage=2</font id="blue">

Good luck, there is nothing to hard and keep us updated.

Cheers John




LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

4 degrees is not too important - it is just chain stretch. Live with it! Get the engine started - and then move the timing back and forth to get the smoothest idle - then check on the road it is NOT pinking.

As promised,an update,
so spent the night looking at old posts from members,lots of usefull info and was building myself up for resetting the timing chain,
when i happened to notice on the haynes book of lies that the write up said align the valve timing marks up with the retaining cap lines on the top end,
i didnt remember any line,mine was a thick notch,having never done this before i took the first line that came around,
rechecked on johns picture that he kindly sent me,(thanks john)and sure enough before the line shown on johns timing picture,there was the notch i had used to time mine with,
lined up the correct marks this time,surprise surprise,the pulley was bang on TDC..0..
had to remove the dizzy as was now way out,while it was out i rechecked the point gap etc,
tried various tooth positions,forward one,back one etc,finally got it pointing at the bolt bang on,
loosly tightened the blts,reset the carb jets(all the way up then two turns down,she started first time,tweaked the dizzy a little while it was running,sounds allgood,
left it at that point,(my back was killing me anyway)
will update you all when i do the next,timing,carb balancing etc

Great news [:)]


1980 Persian Aqua DHC

ok an update as promised,new day renewed patience level,
so i started by rechecking the timing as i hadnt fully tightened the dizzy bolts,tweaked it a little,bestpoint was bang on the timing mark,(phew)as usual lost a few layers of skin using my cut down spanner,
next was to tackle the carb balancing,
i had allready set the waxstats,yes it still has waxstats,to level with the carb body bridge,released the throttle bar bolts,and started to get them both sucking the same,withmy colortune carb balancer,not the best but does the job,remembered to blip the throttle inbetween every adjustment,
after about ten minuites managed to get them both sucking on level four together,then started on adjusting the mixture,they were both two turns down allready,so took to making them both richer with half a turn a go,with a blip inbetween,have got them both as the book says just rising slightly when i push the lifter on the carbs,
tried leaning them both after i got the rise,but they were having nothing to do with it,so left it there,
so to sum up,both carbs are sucking the same now,slightly rising as i push the lifting rod,
but they are still stumbling a little regardless of weather i lean or enrich them,
i have tried one flat at a time both ways,but have settled for the best i can get at the moment, i am thinking that its time to get rid of the old waxstats maybee??
cant think of what else i can do,
will have a longer play in the next few days now shese running pretty good,
will update you all Jiffy

What oil do you have in the dampers?

Have read the opinions regarding damper oil,i have gone for 3 in 1 as a tester,others seem to say 10w30,
why do you ask?