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Headlight Changing

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
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JIFFY
Wedgling
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Headlight Changing

Postby JIFFY » 12 Oct 2013 18:31

Hi guys,
managed to get all the lights working today,except the reversing lights,(probably the switch),
read all the posts on lights,did as everywhone said ie cleaned the switches and the connectors on the inner wing including the earthing points,
and bazinga everything worked,
one question,the main running light(low beam)was working but now is not,
not sure what it is a sealed unit or bulb,
question is how do i get the pop up to stay up to investigate the replacement,
i have twisted the black knob on the motor,it goes up then back down,
maybee battery off then turn the knob??
(i am aware that these mechanisms will take youre fingers off given half a chance and too keep pinkies well away when messing with them)

g4zur
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Postby g4zur » 12 Oct 2013 19:14

Hi
Had these problems not long ago, first disconnect the three pin connection to the headlights, on my 1980 2.0l car its a dark red plastic plug in the engine bay just behind headlights, when disconnected you can wind them up by hand and they will stay up.
Regards
Gareth[;)]

G.P.Albrighton

JIFFY
Wedgling
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Postby JIFFY » 12 Oct 2013 19:33

Thanks Gareth,
didnt think of that connector,the red one for the motors,the white one for the lights,
DOH

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TRiffic
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Postby Workshop Help » 13 Oct 2013 01:06

Perhaps you would be well advised to disconnect the battery rather than the connector. Not only is it safer, you will also not risk breaking the brittle plastic of the connector.

Mildred Hargis

TR Tony
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Postby TR Tony » 13 Oct 2013 07:43

Or raise the lights in the normal way, then disconnect the battery earth. The lights will stay up & you have taken the safety precaution of removing the power.

The original lights were sealed units, & pretty feeble. Think about a set of the H4 upgrades that are available from many sources (you want the ones without the pilot light fitting), then at the same time fit a pair of decent quality H4 fitting Xenon bulbs instead of the H4s that come in the kit. Something like these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-H4-car-he ... 3a851a21a6

As long as the wattage rating is the same as the H4 bulbs you will not have a problem with the overall load on the circuit, but the improvement in the beam pattern & brightness is astonishing.

Tony
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g4zur
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Postby g4zur » 13 Oct 2013 09:35

Must admit I like TR Tonys method the best
Regards
Gareth

G.P.Albrighton

JIFFY
Wedgling
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Postby JIFFY » 13 Oct 2013 19:25

Thanks for the advice guys,as allways awsome info,
the wedgie is still in the garage as work in progress,but will defo be looking at those light upgrades when i manage to scrape the money together to get her out and about to a few meets,
thanks again jeff

bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 14 Oct 2013 20:19

Simply switch on the headlights - so they pop up and then unplug the red plug at each side. I haven't found the plastic to be 'brittle'. The lights now stay up and you can switch off again. Easy to see if they are sealed beam - or halogen - just look inside at the filaments!

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