tr7triumph.com

Having detected a tiny roughness in a front hub, I stripped it out and found a small taper roller bearing on the outer, and a much larger taper roller on the inner. What madness made them fit such different size bearings? They both have to carry the same load - and of course, the small outer is showing some wear, the inner is perfect. Does anyone know the ref number for just a new outer bearing?

The arrangement is pretty much standard on all the taper bearing cars I have worked on in the past (although they are mainly BL and Vauxhall). Had Marina years ago which seemed to develop a rumble after about 3000 miles and sent the bearings back the first time (Moprod) but they said there was nothing wrong with them, so I just changed them regularly.
As far as I know they come in pairs for a wheel unless you want to go to a bearing specialist (SKF agent?) and just get the small one matched. They are only about £10 a set.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto (now gone that others might live)
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

It seems there is a permanent fix :

[url="http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/tr7_tr8.html"]TSI Catalog[/url]



1980 TR8, coming back to life

Be aware that TSI hubs do NOT come with studs! You will have to press out your old ones and press them into the TSI hubs. You will also have to press in the races for the bearings.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

You might also want to look at these:

http://www.hamilton-motorsport.co.uk/acatalog/TR7_8_Alloy_Front_Hub.html



Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

Just make sure you use proper quality bearings and fit them correctly,



And yes, they are not cheap! Even at max. discount they still cost between €30,-- and €40,-- each.

SKF number for the outer bearing is LM 11749/710/Q, inner bearing is L 44649/610/Q.
Seal is a standard automotive item.

p.s. SKF has a policy of changing their numbers from time to time, so its advisory to get one of their printed catalogues/handbooks, so you can search on the actual dimensions.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

What do you think about the issue of adjustment? I've always been suspicious of the large amount of play they tell you to put in the bearings, to allow for thermal expansion. Bearings hate to run without preload and I suspect that a lot of the wear is happening before they warm up.

On the Jaguar XJS the current wisdom is to adjust out the slack, and this seems to have reduced, not increased, the number of failures.

1980 TR8, coming back to life

I think that the correct preload is 5 foot pounds for the front bearings.

Smaller outer bearings is definativly the standard for any car that I have worked on. The inner bearing is centered on the wheel and carries most of the weight. The outer bearing is more for side load and stabilization.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

Tighten the nut till you just can't turn the hub by hand anymore.
Than slack of the nut a little till the hub just starts to move freely.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

Thanks all - these are taper roller bearings - BOTH bearings must carry equal load. They are exactly the Marina bearings - I suspect they are Marina hubs, and discs!! I fitted a new set - had to nip them up slightly after a test run, and after a second test run they are fine as they are - spinning easily, yet no detectable play.

At least they are reasonably easy to replace at home. My son's last 2 cars needed their rear bearings replaced with the help of a 10 tonne press. Not the sort of thing I have lying around.

My belated Golf Gti needed the races drifted into the rear discs, the front ones were sealed for life and needed a whole replacement unit if they wore out.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

Indeed! A brass drift and 'wee heavy' hammer did the job in minutes.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

Indeed! A brass drift and 'wee heavy' hammer did the job in minutes...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Must have item indeed [;)]



<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>