Bump stops

[bmcecosse]

My rear bump stops have crumbled to dust....is there any real advantage with the polyurethane replacements - and has anyone sourced Aeon type progressive bump stops for the rear?

[FI Spyder]

The advantage is.....they don't turn to dust. Rubber deteriorates with time, air pollution, UV, petroleum products all attack it. Poly will last several times longer. Not sure what the originals were made of but mine looked like compressed sawdust (what little was left).

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[john 215]

Hi,

Took the words out of my mouth [:D]

Something wrong if you are riding on your bump stops a lot !

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

[Hasbeen]

What ever you use, don't stick them in.

I fitted new rubber bump stops a few years back. I was having trouble pushing them in, & grabbed a handy silicon tube, & used that to lubricate them. I have never had silicone stick so well to anything.

Proved laziness doesn't work last year when I needed the left one out when replacing the fuel tank. To avoid tearing it apart, I had to soak the silicon with petrol to soften it. This took much more time than getting a suitable lubricant off the shelf would have taken when fitting the thing.

Mine look like they have almost never contacted the rear axel housing, even on our sometimes bumpy country roads.

Hasbeen

[bmcecosse]

Thanks lads - compressed sawdust is an excellent description...I suspect it may hit them when loaded up with all my 'railway gear' - and going over speed bumps a little too enthusiastically - I don't have uprated springs, although I do have Spax dampers. Since the sawdust stops have lasted 30 years - I'm not sure I will get the benefit of any extended life of the poly stops....... Aeon bump stops (or anything similarly progressive) - anyone ?

[Cobber]

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">You need to remember the OE bumpstops would've been made out of much better quality rubber than the Indian made rubbish you have to buy these days. I say: Get the poly!</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">


"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[Beans]

Put poly ones in my DHC after removing the last remains of the original ones ...



But the FHC is still on it's original (rubber) bumpstops ...



<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[bmcecosse]

I really can't begin to guess what the original stops were made of - certainly not 'rubber' . Full credit to Robsport - I ordered a pair of rubber stops yesterday at ~3pm via ebay, and this morning at 10am the Postie was trying to ram them through my letter box! Great service - both from Robsport, and the Royal Mail !!

[busheytrader]

I had the same issue with my front bump stops. Yes, they're a lot harder to get to........

The originals had started to crumble to sawdust after only 7 years. The Triumphtune sourced poly replacements are still together and going strong after 26 years.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

[busheytrader]

I had the same issue with my front bump stops. Yes, they're a lot harder to get to........

The originals had started to crumble to sawdust after only 7 years. The Triumphtune sourced poly replacements are still together and going strong after 26 years.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

[Hasbeen]

For front bump stops those from any thing with McPherson struts with the same size shaft will do, they just need to be the right diameter to fit the strut shaft.

We use Holden Commodore bump stops. They are a bit longer than the stock Triumph stops, so we cut the ones for the 7 down a bit, & for the much lowered 8 they are cut in half. This is one of the few times in life you can actually get two for the price of one.

Hasbeen

[UKPhilTR7]

I recently found that my old rubber ones had turned brittle and I got a new set from Robsport. Last week I finally got around to putting the new ones one. The drivers side went on nice and easy with a big push and a bit of oil to lube it up. The other side was another kettle of fish, it did not want to play. So after a bit I got up and decided to think about how I could get myself into the right position.

Yesterday when I was throwing fuel all over the place, I decided that it would be a good time to try again to get the stop in. This time I got the molly grease and gave it a good coat. On the floor after a bit of pushing, it finally went in. Thank the lord. Another little job that can be taken of the list.

The new ones that I put on though were rubber, but looking at the pictures of the polly ones above, I wish I had put them on now. It is hard enough to get funding of the wife when I need the stuff let alone replacing new for other new lol.

[bmcecosse]

I found mine fitted quite easily - with a spot of lube. Did you clear out all the remains of the old stop first? The rubber ones will easily outlast me...the poly ones are not cheap......

[UKPhilTR7]

Oh yes I sure did, it was all clear of the old ones. It went in after a bit and a good amount of lube, just found it was the angle. With the gar in the garage and not much space it was just not being able to get the angle right to push hard. The one side went in first and then it was just a case of turning it around enough to get the other side to clip in. Got all polly around the car, but missed the stops for some reason. Thinking about it though you are probably right, these ones will last long enough.

[HDRider]

I used an old radiator clamp to compress the stop so it slid into the frame quite esily. I then removed the clamp and pushed the stop the rest of the way in.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA