Water Pump Re-Build Issue

[KFSullivan]

Hi All -

Our TR7 has recently been plagued by the small drip of coolant on the garage floor which over a short period of time became a rather large puddle. I investigaged and found the coolant leaking from the slot on the passenger side of the block.

Upon a thorough seach of this site, I found plenty of information that the water pump had failed most likely due to some worn bearings and/or seals. So I ordered the repair kit from VB and my son and I proceeded to remove the pump.

Removing of the cover and pump assembly has all gone according to plan based on the information I was able to find here, but what I can't figure out is how to remove the water pump impeller from the shaft in order to remove the old seals and bearings and install the new ones.

We managed to crack the impeller [:(], but I fortunately found a used pump assembley from another TR7 guy I know, but this one needs the bearings and seals replaced as well, and thus I'm still looking at how to get the impeller off the shaft.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! [:)]

1980 DHC Pagaent Blue

[john 215]

Hi,

'Back in the day ' we had a special tool that the impeller ' rested ' on whilst the shaft is driven out the the impeller, after naturally removing the left hand thread bolt, you need to find something to use in place of this tool, ie. some tube, a large socket etc. May also help if you warm up the impellor as can be tight on the shaft.

Wish i had borrowed the box of water pump tools we had when I left, it hadn't been used for years and at a guess it ended up in a skip when the dealership closed down [:(]

Cheers John


LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!

1976 Speke FHC Beauty

1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6, BUILT NOT BROUGHT !!!!

[KFSullivan]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by john 215</i>

Hi,

'Back in the day ' we had a special tool that the impeller ' rested ' on whilst the shaft is driven out the the impeller, after naturally removing the left hand thread bolt, you need to find something to use in place of this tool, ie. some tube, a large socket etc. May also help if you warm up the impellor as can be tight on the shaft.

Wish i had borrowed the box of water pump tools we had when I left, it hadn't been used for years and at a guess it ended up in a skip when the dealership closed down [:(]

Cheers John


<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Thanks, John. I get the jist of what you are saying. Anyone else with words of wisdom?

1980 DHC Pagaent Blue

[Workshop Help]

The time or two I tried to rebuild on a used water pump shaft it was no big deal to dislodge the impeller from the shaft. It seems, if memory serves, the shaft was placed in the square hole of the anvil with the impeller flat side down on the anvil top. A drift was set on top of the shaft and a three pound sledge hammer humanely persuaded the shaft thru the impeller where it fell on top of my foot.

Good thing my work shoe was steel toed.

Now, wait just a minute! Let's refrain just this one time from all the editorial flack about my ultra feminine fashion sense regarding footware. Anytime a soul is tinkering about in the machine shed, basic safety calls for Personal Protective Equipment, or PPE. Safety work shoes/boots are a basic component of PPE and must not be overlooked. That water pump shaft is about 10 ounces of machined steel and when dropped from a 2" height can do a painful number of an unprotected toe.

Getting back to the topic at hand, your water pump shaft MUST be smooth with no wear or corrosion spots that will prevent a water tight seal. Mine did not and shortly there after leaked again. The best solution is to bite the bullet and buy a new pump from some company other than the vendors who sell the 'County' brand. It is South Asia junk. You will pay more, but you will get more in terms of a long and happy service life.

Mildred Hargis

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

OK, you have two bad pumps, so here is the easy answer. First remove the center bolt on one of the impeller. Remember that it is backwards threaded, so turn it clockwise to remove the bolt. Next, get a BIG, HEAVY fender washer, grind down one edge so that it looks like a big "D". Go to a welding shop and have the washer welded straight up on the top of the bolt.

Screw the bolt back into the pump, hook a slide hammer with a hook into the hole in the washer and with about 6 whacks of the slide hammer, it should pop right out. Remove the bolt and place it in the top of your tool box, for the next time.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

[Cobber]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Mildred</i>



Now, wait just a minute! Let's refrain just this one time from all the editorial flack about my ultra feminine fashion sense regarding footware. Anytime a soul is tinkering about in the machine shed, basic safety calls for Personal Protective Equipment, or PPE. Safety work shoes/boots are a basic component of PPE and must not be overlooked. That water pump shaft is about 10 ounces of machined steel and when dropped from a 2" height can do a painful number of an unprotected toe.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">So Mildred, I take it your not a big fan of Chinese safety boots then:

And I thought these might be your style!
[:D]</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">



"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[Workshop Help]

Wrong color. Tho the rhinestones are tres' chic!

Mildred Hargis

[KFSullivan]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jclay</i>

OK, you have two bad pumps, so here is the easy answer. First remove the center bolt on one of the impeller. Remember that it is backwards threaded, so turn it clockwise to remove the bolt. Next, get a BIG, HEAVY fender washer, grind down one edge so that it looks like a big "D". Go to a welding shop and have the washer welded straight up on the top of the bolt.

Screw the bolt back into the pump, hook a slide hammer with a hook into the hole in the washer and with about 6 whacks of the slide hammer, it should pop right out. Remove the bolt and place it in the top of your tool box, for the next time.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Thanks everyone for your replys. I will make sure my son and I are properly protected from falling objects in the shop with the proper footwear. [:D]

John, so with your configuration of the washer with the bolt you use the slide hammer to push the shaft down through the impeller correct, as opposed to pulling the whole water pump assembly out of the block when removing, correct?

1980 DHC Pagaent Blue

[dursleyman]

I managed to break an impeller as well first time I tried to get one off. Next time I made sure I used a piece of tube which was a good fit under the impeller so it was well supported as near to the shaft as possible - the smallest tube diameter that fits is what you want. A cautious bit of heat would probably help as well. I guess a press is the ideal tool but not many of have access to one.
I see Tony Hart the Stag guy does a rebuild service for about £60 (including parts) so that may be a good choice to have an expert do the job for the nervous.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

No, you use the slide hammer to remove the pump. Putting it back in is easy, as long as you have already removed the brass basket from the block. Use the slide hammer with a hook to remove the basket also.

Clean everything and slip the new pump back into the hole. While pushing down on the pump, rotate the impeller until the gears slip together As you continue to push down on the pump, you will see the impeller rotate by itself. Start turning the impeller in that direction and it will ease the pump into it's home.

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

[KFSullivan]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dursleyman</i>

I managed to break an impeller as well first time I tried to get one off. Next time I made sure I used a piece of tube which was a good fit under the impeller so it was well supported as near to the shaft as possible - the smallest tube diameter that fits is what you want. A cautious bit of heat would probably help as well. I guess a press is the ideal tool but not many of have access to one.
I see Tony Hart the Stag guy does a rebuild service for about £60 (including parts) so that may be a good choice to have an expert do the job for the nervous.

Russ

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Thanks, Russ. I will try your procedure.

1980 DHC Pagaent Blue

[KFSullivan]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jclay</i>

No, you use the slide hammer to remove the pump. Putting it back in is easy, as long as you have already removed the brass basket from the block. Use the slide hammer with a hook to remove the basket also.

Clean everything and slip the new pump back into the hole. While pushing down on the pump, rotate the impeller until the gears slip together As you continue to push down on the pump, you will see the impeller rotate by itself. Start turning the impeller in that direction and it will ease the pump into it's home.

Clay

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yes, that's what I thought you meant; however, I already had removed the pump assembly with a slide hammer and now am trying to separate the impeller from the shaft so I can install new seals and bearings.

1980 DHC Pagaent Blue

[FI Spyder]

Heating impeller with heat gun and freezing shaft with freeze spray will help separate them but a well stocked garage will have a press. I bought a 12 ton press for just over $119 when it was on sale. really comes in handy.

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Presses/12-Ton-Shop-Press/8150930.p




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