Engine Oil (Modern) for Triumph TR7

[UKPhilTR7]

Just read the post about the oil, so would the best grade oil to use on a just rebuilt engine be 10/40 or 20/50?

[Hasbeen]

Phil Penrite HPR 30 is the recommendation from Penrite, & our local Triumph guru.

The Triumph Sports Owners Club in Queensland, [which caters to all Triumphs here] had the Penrite bloke along to the march club meeting, & this was the recommendation for my totally rebuilt 7 8V engine.

It is a 20W 60 semi synthetic, with high zinc, formulated for older design engines, & suitable for our hotter climate.

I of course drop a bottle of STP in there as well.

I ran a thin running in oil for 500Km, then changed to the HPR 30, with a new filter, adding the STP after a further 500Km.

They recommended their HPR 10 diesel for the TR8 some time back. Being highly detergent, it reduces the amount of carbon that builds up in ridiculous places, like the rocker covers, in the dirty old Rover things. I gather most of the Land Rover specialists are using it in things with the old much loved thing.

Before the rebuild with the 7 engine having a lot of motor sport work, & 160,000Km + on it, I was using the diesel equivalent for every 3Rd oil change in it, to help keep it clean.

Hasbeen

[bmcecosse]

So - is there any dis-advantage running a diesel oil all the time?

[Hasbeen]

We have not found any with the 8.

I did not even think to ask about the 7. With the old engine, it was not burning oil, but was definitely getting worn enough to put more ring blow by into its sump. When I asked what they suggested to use to flush it out occasionally they suggested the diesel oil every 3Rd change, & I went with that. You could see it worked, when the diesel oil got much dirtier fairly quickly.

With the new engine they have not suggested I use the diesel oil, & I did not think to ask. It was a club night with about 35 people asking individual questions, & I did not want to be too greedy with the blokes time.

Hasbeen

[TR Tony]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

So - is there any dis-advantage running a diesel oil all the time?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
In an older or higher mileage engine that may have a build up of carbon or sludge then there could be a risk of loosening too much of the built up deposits which could then be carried round the engine clogging oilways, the filter or oil pick up screen.

In a newer engine that should not be a problem.

Bear in mind that there are many oils with higher detergent levels than our traditional mineral 20/50, usually ester based synthetics for example Mobil 1 10W60 which I believe also has a good zinc level.

Tony

<font size="1">1981 TR7 FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 TR7V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!
1977 TR8 FHC EFI Factory development car Inca Yellow</font id="size1">

[FI Spyder]

We don't need the zinc levels with the slant 4 (modern OHC design), do with the older 8. Zinc levels over the years has been lessened to extend catalytic life. Most racing oils have higher original zinc levels as racing cars don't have catalysts. An example of this is Kendall Racing Oil.

Interesting discussion about oils on this Chevelle website.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23164



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[motman]

Went for a 20/50 mineral oil as recommended by you guys supplied by my local motor trade factors.
Engine sounds very healthy and is getting better and better the more its used

Cheers

Steve

[windy one]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by fastman</i>

I use what the book calls for... 20W50 non-synthetic oil. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

+1. I have always used regular Castrol 20w50 in all my wedges, 7's & 8's. And, I drive mine all year round. No problems with starting or lubrication.

Johnny

[UKPhilTR7]

Thanks for the words of wisdom guys. I have 20/50 in here at the moment and as per the recommendations from Cobber, I put premium petrol in her over the weekend. The knocking does seem to of partly gone, so I will let it run through more and see what the outcome is. Let it run for a bit to make sure that all the premium is in her

I am going to get some of the STP and add it in as a good measure and then may look at the HPR 30 to see how things go from there.

[Hasbeen]

One other thing Phil.

I add Morey's upper cylinder lubricant to my petrol, not so much to lubricate my valves, although I suppose that doesn't hurt, but to treat any water in the tank.

In our climate I think condensation is more common, & rusts our fuel tanks. I have found the Moreys is preferentially absorbed by the water, making it very oily. I'm sure this would be less likely to rust the tank than clean water.

Hasbeen

[Cobber]

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">If the knocking isn't entirely gone even with the use of premium fuel, a slight adjustment to the ignition timing might help,such as a little less advance.

The other thing that could make a big difference to the knocking is to use colder sparkplugs. </font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">



"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[jaybee]

Perhaps a silly question but what modern oil would be ok in my TR7 2 litre?

[FI Spyder]

Any. It doesn't require high(er) levels of zinc like older design engines. Different brands are available in different geographic locations around the world. I like to change oil once a year (in the fall) because I don't use them every day (retired) plus have more than one car so they don't get used a lot relative to a daily driver where you have to drive to work every day. When I did drive them daily, I changed oil every three months like the manual said and never had an engine burn or use oil in my life although I owned my cars for as long as 20 - 25 years (and counting). I've never used synthetic oils with their longer change times to justify their expense because I like to have the engine periodically flushed of carbon/chemical contaminates. I buy brand name oils when they go on sale in flyers ahead of time (usually Wal-mart or Canadian Tire in my town) so I have some in stock so I only have to worry about having an oil filter on hand when a nice day rolls around to do the filter change. It keeps the costs down considerably. I also add half a bottle of STP ($4.95 per bottle) just for that extra bit (also added half a bottle to differential).

[saabfast]

Unless completely rebuilt with new seals (in modern materials) it should be a mineral oil, not synthetic. Synthetics are for modern engines and are lower viscosity to reduce friction and run in hot turbos without breaking down but are not suitable for old engines and materials which are not designed for it. In the UK I would suggest a 20W/50, particularly if the engine is worn at all as the higher hot viscosity keeps the pressure up better. Adding STP type things can help too.

[bonnietiler]

Fuchs Titan Race Pro R 20W-50.
I use this in the TR7V8 have done for 3 years...change it annually which is a waste of time as its always crystal clear, car has used 1 pint in the last 12 months (5000miles) quiet smooth.
Proper product