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Engine Oil (Modern) for Triumph TR7

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
Hoops
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Postby Hoops » 16 Apr 2010 10:14

Got the Halfords Classic oil and its now running a bit quieter! Cheers!

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Bobbieslandy
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Postby Bobbieslandy » 17 Apr 2010 19:59

I'm jealous, i wish my TR7 had an engine to put oil in! I must say your 7 looks awesome, black really does suit them.

Rob.

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motman
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which oil?

Postby motman » 15 Apr 2013 19:57

Can anyone please tell me what grade of oil is best for my 1977 2.0? Its a bit ticky from the top end when warm so looking for something suitable

Thanks

fastman
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Postby fastman » 15 Apr 2013 20:47

I use what the book calls for... 20W50 non-synthetic oil. I'm in a very extreme part of Canada with regards to weather. Summers get in the low 30 C area. Winters are NA due to the snow and -30s.

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 16 Apr 2013 00:25

Any 20W-50 will work fine. You don't have to worry about the lack of Zinc in modern oils because we have over head cam with hard steel cam unlike those with older engines with tappets which use a softer cam. Those older engines should use an oil with high zinc content like Kendall Racing Oil. Today's oils progressively use less zinc to extend the life of catalytic converters.

There are zinc additives but as cheap or cheaper to use oil with if you need it, we don't. Our car club can get this oil by the case (Kendall Racing Oil) at a cut rate, then members get their 4/5 liters/quarts as needed.

You can always add a little STP to help it out.

Those in hot Oz use 20W-60 but I've never seen it on the shelves here,

If you're getting a little tick are your valve clearances a little high?


- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 16 Apr 2013 02:02

I use Penrite HPR 30 in my all new engine, with a bottle of STP. It is an "old engine" oil, with extra zinc. It's a 20W 60 semi synthetic, & the STP stops the oil draining out of everything, when the car stands for a while.

I used HPR 40, 30W 70, plus STP in the old 160,000+Km engine. That engine had been thrashed in rallying for 10 years, then sat for 3 more before I got it. It did a further 60,000Km before the water pump failed.

Sounds like you agree, good oil is the cheapest good maintenance practice you can do.

Hasbeen

motman
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Postby motman » 16 Apr 2013 10:54

Thanks everyone. Haven't got round to checking the valve clearences yet as everytime I think about doing it another problem creeps up, I suppose thats the downside of buying a car thats been stored without being run for 12 years!!

Cheers

Steve

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 21 Apr 2013 04:45

So guys are we saying that 20/50 or 20/60 is the best one to use in our engines? I have been using 20/50 8n mine and since changing the oil over here i have had a lettoe knock (now and then) in low reves.

Also this may sound a bit of a silly question, but what is this?

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busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 21 Apr 2013 05:59

If it's low revs in a high gear whilst accelerating it might be a touch of pinking.........

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TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

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Postby Cobber » 21 Apr 2013 12:15

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">Phil what are you tipping into the fuel tank? ULP or Premium?
Remember your UK delivered car will have the high compression ratio and might not like the low octane swill sold here as ULP.</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">




"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 28 Apr 2013 11:32

Hi Cobber, I just put usual unleaded in her (ULP?).
I am going to get some of the STP and see if that can help.

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Cobber
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Postby Cobber » 28 Apr 2013 11:48

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">Try some premium fuel then, you higher compression engine probably needs it</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">



"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 28 Apr 2013 13:25

Knock can be caused by air temp, moisture content in air, altitude, compression, distributor setting and more. If it's knocking try higher grade, as Cobber suggests (with your UK spec. engine). A friend's Spitfire here upgraded to UK spec. ran fine on mid grade fuel (we have different method of calculating octane in N/A so numbers are not the same).

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 29 Apr 2013 21:02

I thought 10 W 40 was the best oil for a TR7 engine??

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 30 Apr 2013 00:03

10W40 will work for a new engine or cooler weather.
20W50 for most engines in the summer time.
20W60 for those really got days in Australia were it's cook the shrimp on the unlit barbi and pass me another Coopers.

Here in Canada, 20W60 is what we find in the oil sands before it's refined.[:p]

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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