What is normal idle RPM?

[Sean Roth]

So what is the middle position on the light switch for?


Is there anything missing in the engine compartment?

SF Roth

[Workshop Help]

The middle position is for the parking lights.

As for your engine compartment, yes, it is missing your lost virtue and innocence. You knew that wisecrack was coming. It could also have been the old, 'That's what she said', wisecrack. Or, 'Besides a good running V-8?'.

Mildred Hargis

[Sean Roth]

Funny, true that!



SF Roth

[FI Spyder]

Engine compartment looks pretty complete, just missing a little elbow grease..

Remove, strip and paint valve cover. Ford blue engine paint should work fine unless you want to go for the California silver colour in which case you can use caliper paint, heat and abrasion resistant.

Aluminum parts like alternator and brackets, fan shroud, expansion tank cap, can be hand or otherwise polished to look close to chrome with something like Wicked Metal Polish. Mines 7 years old and still hanging in there.

Clean rubber hoses (fuel,emission and cooling) with something like Maguire's vinyl and rubber cleaner to make them like new.

You're about were I started to end up like this, After seven years pretty much looks the same or better with minimal retouching. Mind once you start detailing there's no stopping till you finished or it will stand out.









- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[Vino79TR7]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Sean Roth</i>

So what is the middle position on the light switch for?


Is there anything missing in the engine compartment?

SF Roth
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

There is no middle position for that switch...the switch is dirty and needs to be cleaned. Most likely what's happened is the dielectric grease has hardened and making your switch get stuck in the middle like that.

[Vino79TR7]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Vino79TR7</i>

[quote]<i>Originally posted by Sean Roth</i>

So what is the middle position on the light switch for?


Is there anything missing in the engine compartment?

SF Roth
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

There is no middle position for that switch...the switch is dirty and needs to be cleaned. Most likely what's happened is the dielectric grease has hardened and making your switch get stuck in the middle like that.

the left switch is for the head lights...middle for fog lamps...far right switch for flashers...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

[Vino79TR7]

engine looks complete and at least all the original parts are there like the air filter.

Weather your FASD is operational or not is not an easy question to answer...is your FASD connected electrically? would be the first question.

Second question...dose the vacuum retard on the distributor operational? does it hold a vacuum? if it does not...no point in doing anything else until you locate a distributor that can hold a vacuum. dose your car over heat? it's due in part to the leaking vacuum.

if the idol it high because the FASD is not working, you'll have to set the idol at 850 once the engine is warm. once the engine cools...the car will not start...that's one way to tell if it works or not...but not a real solution the high idol problem...regardless...check the vacuum first before moving to the FASD.

As far as I know (from my personal experience)...cleaning or taking apart the FASD at this point could only cause more problems. You can break something inside the FASD...better to assume the FASD works perfectly at this point...the FASDs stops working because a wax actuator that switches it on and off fails.

The kit you buy from British Victoria converts the wax actuator on the FASD to a manual operation...instead of the FASD switching on and off by the wax actuator (that driven by water temperature)...it switches on and off using a manual pull switch you install near the ignition switch.

If your FASD is not working because of something other than the wax actuator not working...Your in big trouble...there are no replacement parts for the FASD...Lets hope for the best...and assume it works perfectly and the problem with it is the Wax actuator...in cleaning it you can easily break something or forget to put something back where it belongs.

This may sound complicated but once the high idol issue is fixed, the vacuum retard and the FASD actuator is sorted out...TR7s are very solid cars.

[Vino79TR7]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Sean Roth</i>

Also, any suggestions as to where I should order a new top? Which color to keep it stock?

SF Roth
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Rock auto on line.... was letting a canvas top got for about $75.00 lees than what everyone else was charging but that was about a year ago...they also had the green window tint available as an option...since your car is green, I'd assume you have tinted windows.

Rock auto is where you'll find a lot of parts for your TR7...very inexpensive...once bought a rebuilt alternator for $17.00...it' still works...other places were asking $200+. Geek auto is another on-line source. You'll also discover that national chains like Track auto can still source parts