Now it's ticking, what a bomb!

[Cobber]

<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">I can easily imagine how big that hole is, having had to put down cattle, sheep and horses.
So you have my sympathy.

Can you imagine how big a hole is needed for 6500 sheep!
I had to help a mate put down his entire mob and quarantine the property as they'd come down with Johannes disease and as such had to be destroyed. We wore out a couple of .22s doing that.
Earth moving machinery was use to dig series of 6 huge trenches.
I'll not mention the rest of the details.

It's always a sorry job to deal with animals that have either passed on or need to be destroyed.
</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">


"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100

[FI Spyder]

Yes it is, but part and parcel of growing up a farm boy. We had 3/4 of a section and there was a square of trees (white and black poplar) where we dragged the horse and cattle carcasses to decompose naturally. While it wasn't used often as most went to market, it was like an elephant grave yard. We didn't have a front end loader. We didn't have riding horses as all animals were there to do work or earn money (except for a dog and cats to keep the varmints in check).



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[Workshop Help]

Keeping with the morbidity of our little tangent here that has NOTHING to do with either the topic at hand or TR7's in general, I saw on TV a story of how down in Texas some University or State agency has a place where corpses are left out in the open to return to their basic elements. They are then studied by forensic pathologists to learn about decomposition rates and effects over time.

One could stretch this to a comparison of how a TR7 rots when left unused, whether sealed in a garage or out behind the house. It appears the Law of Inertia applies equally to both situations. When you or the car quits moving, the deterioration sets in.

So, get up and get moving! Go gas up the car. Go fix the back up lights. Go wash, clay bar, and wax the paint. GO! GO! GO!

Mildred Hargis

That last paragraph sounds a bit on the GI side. I can't help it. Daddy was a D.I. in the old Army Air Corps before it became the Army Air Force before it became the USAF. One could say me and my siblings were, in fact, recruits trained the right and proper way. And, those affects haven't worn off.

M.H.

[dmtrmp6]

G'day Hasbeen, As a possible solution refer Oz Ebay item number: 271313413128. Listing is for a QH/Goss aftermarket mechanical pump, with 1 item remaining from original listing of 4. $35 plus postage. Following link may/may not work. Rgds, Daryl M

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271313413128 ... 1497.l2649

[Hasbeen]

Thanks for the heads up Daryl.

Hasbeen

[Hasbeen]

Actually Daryl, I'm not sure I want another one.

Mildred you are getting closer to winning me on an electric pump all the time.

Spent hours today trying to feel contact between the pump lever, & the lobe on the jackshaft. NOTHING.

Even tried a paddle pop stick. Nothing.

Tried looking in there with a mirror & light. NOTHING.

My finger is too thick & my little finger too short to feel anything.

There are some slight marks on the side of the lever, but they could have been there for years.

The thing has me beaten so far. I am leaning towards the lever coming off the side of the cam lobe, while I was driving, stopping the fuel. It can't be the jack shaft, as the distributor is still working properly.

I'll go in to my Dolly Sprint mates tomorrow. He has a 7s engine on the bench he is doing a head rebuild on. I can look inside the fuel pump hole, & see how this all works, & perhaps check my pump on the thing.

Still an electric pump is sounding better all the time.

Hasbeen

[dmtrmp6]

Cheers Phil, actually after sending you details of the link, the seller increased the price by $10 for one remaining item!

If you are considering an electric alternative, there is an SU style "Ecco" diaphragm pump manufactured long term in NZ by Fuelflow which seems to have reasonable reviews (new version which overcame some identified hiccups in early model). They include a variety of models with varying fuel pressure, delivery rates and size/style.

Importantly the range includes a version with 1-2 psi @ 1 litre flow and others with 2-3 psi & 3-4 psi. I have one of these put aside to go on the Spit and apparently popular on minis. Company also makes a dual version and a compact piston style pump. Rgds, Daryl M

Following are two links
Fuelflow NZ product range: http://www.fuelflow.co.nz/FF_cms_03/esh ... gory_id=28
Or this one to the 1-2psi diaphragm model from Qld seller with most of the range on Oz Ebay: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12-volt-SU-T ... 1c1bd28822

[Hasbeen]

Thanks Daryl, I had started to wonder about output & pressure of todays electric pumps.

I'll have another try to get the mechanical pump working on the car. It is working perfectly manually off the car, so it must be a problem with the lever coming off the lobe on the jack shaft.

I've had a few people pushing me to take the thing to the Logan Village show on Sunday, so I'll have to try to get the thing going by then.

Hasbeen.

[FI Spyder]

Moss motors had a thing (video or what ever) about fuel pumps a while back. Many pumps are high pressure high volume or low pressure low volume. They said the we need low pressure high volume. They sell the Facit electric fuel pump. Don't know any one that has used it.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=30832


Install manual:

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/instructions/377-420.pdf



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[Hasbeen]

It doesn't make any more sense, no matter how you look at it.

Took my pump to town. Had a good look inside the pump slot of the engine on the bench, & it really is not rocket science.

Offered my pump up, & immediately had contact, & the sounds of pumping if I moved the pump closer or further away from the block.

I can move the pump from side to side, [front to back as in the car], as far as the lever in the slot can go, & the lever remains on the lobe, & the pump pumping.

Looking at this engine, you would say it was impossible to install the pump incorrectly. It is obviously only my extreme brilliance that enables me to GET IT WRONG.

This jackshaft is not my original. The skew gear for the water pump was badly worn on it. This is a replacement, & I am now wondering if the problem is with it.

Just a cup of coffee & I shall again sally forth to the shed to again do battle with this, this, this, well I'm sure the site won't allow me to call the thing what I want to.

Be sure to catch the next episode & discover who was TRiumh-ant this time.

Hasbeen

[Hasbeen]

Current score card.

Triumphs 20

Hasbeens 0.

[Workshop Help]

Okay, I've now led the TR7 Cheerleaders in several cheer routines to encourage your triumphant efforts. Rah! Rah! Sis-Boom-Rah! All that positive reinforcement and positive psychic waves, and here you are exuding despair and an aura of negativity.

For shame!

Confidentially, I went thru the same with my diaphragm pump saga. But, no matter, will there be a quality and value priced electric pump in your future? Or, will you continue down the stubborn cobbled path for another mechanical pump?

If you are able to get a mirror and light to show you the condition of the fuel pump lobe on the jack shaft, a better determination of it's condition can be made. If the lobe is damaged, then your choice is made for you to select an electric pump in a decorator color to match the blood shot fury in your eyes.

Your personal pep squad is standing by with our pom-poms at the ready awaiting your next report.

Mildred Hargis

[Hasbeen]

Half time score, one all.

Yes it is running. Went through everything again & found nothing wrong anywhere.

Refitted the pump, but WITHOUT MY EXTRA SPACERS. That is 77 thou less than it was running with, before it stopped, with a clear hose on the outlet.

Fired it up, & it pumped fuel out through the hose over the fender into a can.

Refilled the float bowls with fuel using my gravity feed system. Reconnected the pump & fired it up. It kept running, so is getting fuel.

Oh, the ticking has stopped!

After a few minutes I shut it down, & took the supply hose off the front carb. There was fuel, but nothing like the residual pressure I am used to.

Do you get the impression I don't trust this pump now? Looking at it I think it is an original pump, not the aftermarket pump I recently fitted.

I still don't understand how the thing did about 500 kilometers on this pump, with the spacers, then stopped, & required the spacers removed to get the pump to work again.

I'll re-rig & fill my gravity system, & carry it along when I go for a test run.

Wish me luck.

Hasbeen

[Workshop Help]

Does the assembled masses around here realize that a vacuum gauge also measures fuel pump pressure? It's all so simple. Merely attach the gauge hose to the output spigot of the fuel pump and crank the engine to activate the pump. The reading of the gauge will provide the pressure available. If the pressure reading is less than the normal rating on a TR7 pump of about 2-3 lbs, the pump is bad. Conversely, if the pressure is a whole lot higher, a fuel pressure regulator will be needed.

Of course, there are other indicators of a fuel systems health. One way is to assess how much fuel is in each of the float bowls by either carefully removing the bowl, or pulling the drain plug and catch the fuel in a can. The Z-S carburetors have this plug, but I'm not sure about the S-U units as I have not seen one in about 30+ years. And, there is the old remove the output hose and crank the engine to see how much fuel can be squirted into a can trick. All of these methods are messy and fraught with a fire hazard. But, in life, some nasty things just have to be done.

Mildred Hargis

[Hasbeen]

Well it goes, & keeps going at moderate output. It can not support as long at full throttle as it was last week. Under full throttle standing start, 5500 in each gear, it doesn't get far in 4Th gear before fuel starvation sets in.

I could reduce the packing some more, but, not knowing why it is changing, I would never trust it again.

Mildred you will be pleased to know I have ordered a 2 to 3 PSI electric pump. Sorry, but I will still use a borrowed gauge, applying the old adage, why buy the book, when you can join the library.

Daryl, thanks for the link. That Online autoparts has the full range of those NZ pumps, & I have a 2/3 PSI pump leaving today.

I really do prefer to keep things that have worked for 30+ years, but If I can't understand why it is giving trouble, I do loose interest fairly quickly.

Hasbeen