front strut help pls TR7

[pfenlon]

I cannot remove the nylon nut from the top of my front strut.

All it does is rotate the whole inner shocker tube, I suppose there is a special tool for holding the

plate with 2 notches in it, any one got any suggestions, a heavy pair of Molegrips on the topmost part of the shocker failed.

I went to the drivers club "strip the front suspension page" it says remove the nut, but not How.

car is 1980 model.

[Ianftr8]

Hi Peter,
Generally it is easier if you can use an air gun to run the nut off, but if that isn't available to you I have managed to do by wedging a screwdriver in one of the cut outs in that cup at the top of the strut. that or you could make yourself a special tool.

If you are not going to use the strut again you could use vice grips on the shock absorber itself or even find a way of cutting it.

Are you doing this on the bench or on the car? obviously with the spring on the strut it is under loads of tension so take care that you have some spring compressors on.

Cheers
Ian

[pfenlon]

Thanks Ian
I had the unit off the car with spring compressors on as you suggested.
there must be a tool that is made for this, but before going and begging a loan of one tomorrow I will try and wedge it as you suggest.
but your reply does confirm that the cup is the part needing to be held in order to get the sodding nut off, so thank you for your help

Peter

[Steve @ SandS]

The cup or D washer as it is sometimes called does stop the piston from turning. The cup has a D shaped hole that locates against a flat on the piston and the tool locates into the slots and stops it turning while you undo the nut.

[sheetsofsound]

I just recently had the same problem with a pair of very rusty struts. After quite a bit of fiddling about trying to wedge the cupped washer and get enough torque on the thing, it was an impact wrench that did the job in the end. The first strut took me 30 minutes to get loose; the second about 30 seconds. Should have started with it in the first place, but being lazy and not wanting the hassle of unpacking and hooking up my compressor cost me time and a trunk full of self derision.

Brent

[pfenlon]

I have managed it now, by compressing the springs fully, then getting a hefty pair of stillsons on the top inch of the rod then a power bar on the nut.

I did try and wedge the cup but without success, the top inch of the rod is never used so no damage done.

Another question ( I'm new to the TR7) is it worth fitting the needle roller mod at the top of the struts, will it make the steering easier at low speeds??

but thanks to all. Pete.

[Ianftr8]

Hi Pete,

I have sent you a PM, have a look at that before you decide which way to go.

Cheers
Ian

[FI Spyder]

Most people think it does but as it is usually the case of adding the bearing and greasing the normally dry turning surfaces it is hard to say how much is bearing and how much is newly greased surfaces. It is more important to add the bearing on the Spider and 30th Anniversary models as they use the smaller TR8 13" steering wheel and you get less mechanical advantage.