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Viscous Fan

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 04 Aug 2014 12:57

The minute you notice anything (from screeching to rumbling clutch fan|) you should not drive it in that condition. Take the belt off the fan, you can run it on the highway without to get you home. Ron, had his go in Portland, Oregon and drove all the way home to Nanaimo, BC with it disconnected with no overheating (including getting on the international Port Angeles ferry and going through customs).



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busheytrader
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Postby busheytrader » 20 Aug 2014 06:08

Yes the water pump runs off the jack shaft, not the fan belt.

I found this "carrot" test on a Mercedes forum........... How big is a standard Euro carrot then?

Here's a good viscous coupling test known by some as "the carrot test".

Step 1. Start your car with the engine cold.

Step 2. Take 1 standard Euro carrot and insert the top into the fan blades. The fan should stop rotating. If the top of the carrot is sliced off, then the viscous coupling has failed in a seized state and should be replaced.

Step 3. Remove the carrot from the engine bay and get engine nice and hot.

Step 4. Re-insert the top of the carrot into the fan blades. This time, the top of the carrot should be sliced off. If it isn't, the viscous coupling has failed in a free-wheeling state and should be replaced.

Other vegatables of a similiar shape and consistency to a carrot can also be used. Don't try it with any body parts though


Adam

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Postby dursleyman » 20 Aug 2014 07:57

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by stevie_a</i>

[teal][b]Personally i wouldn't muck about, fit an electric fan, i would ignore originality if it goes it can make a mess of the bonnet

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Stevie, I had a fan go on an Avenger rally car back in 1970's. We were just leaving a hairpin corner at high revs and the broken off blade went through the fan guard and out through the steel bonnet like a bullet. Luckily missing all the spectators. To add insult to injury the out of balance fan then shattered the water pump which went through the radiator. End of play.

Russ

1980 TR7 Sprint DHC, 1981 TR7 Sprint DHC
Dursley
UK

http://tr7russ.blogspot.co.uk/

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Postby Cobber » 20 Aug 2014 10:15

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by busheytrader</i>

Yes the water pump runs off the jack shaft, not the fan belt.

I found this "carrot" test on a Mercedes forum........... How big is a standard Euro carrot then?

Here's a good viscous coupling test known by some as "the carrot test".


Step 1. Start your car with the engine cold.

Step 2. Take 1 standard Euro carrot and insert the top into the fan blades. The fan should stop rotating. If the top of the carrot is sliced off, then the viscous coupling has failed in a seized state and should be replaced.

Step 3. Remove the carrot from the engine bay and get engine nice and hot.

Step 4. Re-insert the top of the carrot into the fan blades. This time, the top of the carrot should be sliced off. If it isn't, the viscous coupling has failed in a free-wheeling state and should be replaced.

Other vegatables of a similiar shape and consistency to a carrot can also be used. Don't try it with any body parts though


Adam

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I don't like carrots, how about using some potatoes and making chips! [:D]


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'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.

Workshop Help
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Postby Workshop Help » 20 Aug 2014 12:24

Whoa! What's with all this confessed vegetable abuse? Do we need to call in the Ferguson, Missouri SWAT Team?

Please advise just where on the fan blades the poor vegetable is to be inserted on this automotive slice & dicer. Is it from the top of the blade or down lower on the side? Given our now very old plastic fan blades, that sounds like a good way to break off the blade ends.

Mildred Hargis

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Postby busheytrader » 21 Aug 2014 06:21

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by REPLIC8</i>

Taken it out for a test drive, sounds like I'm driving through a wind tunnel, doesn't slip at all. Going to refit the original for now and have a think about what to do. Can't see the point of buying another aftermarket one as it seems they're all crap.
May go the electric fan route if I can hide all the wiring so you don't know it's on there. I could leave the original on to look correct & just run a shorter belt between the crank & alternator. Above all it needs to be usable. [:)]

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Andy
1981 TR7 FHC

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A pusher electric fan can be fitted in front of the radiator so it's not seen when opening the bonnet. A TR 8 radiator is further forward so definitely can't be seen with a pusher fan. I'm fairly sure that's the same for the 7. Some such as mine, bolt straight on to the radiator core and others use brackets. Mine's been in place since 91 albeit with limited mileage as it came with the S&S conversion kit. There have been articles that some of the direct mounting systems have worn away the radiator core causing leaks but maybe they haven't been fitted tightly enough and friction has gradually worn away the core.

Adam

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Postby FI Spyder » 21 Aug 2014 13:53

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by busheytrader</i>


Here's a good viscous coupling test known by some as "the carrot test".

Step 1. Start your car with the engine cold.

Step 2. Take 1 standard Euro carrot and insert the top into the fan blades. The fan should stop rotating. If the top of the carrot is sliced off, then the viscous coupling has failed in a seized state and should be replaced.

Step 3. Remove the carrot from the engine bay and get engine nice and hot.

Step 4. Re-insert the top of the carrot into the fan blades. This time, the top of the carrot should be sliced off. If it isn't, the viscous coupling has failed in a free-wheeling state and should be replaced.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My fan clutch has the same resistance whether it is cold or hot from a drive on a hot day. The temp gauge needle moves only a needle width from operating temp on an average day to stop and go driving on a hot day. While there is some fan noise (normal) it doesn't get progressively louder at higher speeds so I am guessing as speed increases the resistance increases from moving more air till it matches the resistance of the clutch. Once one gets used to engine noise/road/wind noise at 60 mph and as one gets board with highway driving the speed progressively increases until one see 75-80 mph on the speedo and one says who, better slow down a bit before one gets a speeding ticket. Would an electric fan be quieter? Sure (at least when it's off). If your clutch slip is too light or too heavy I wouldn't use it because it would be turning too fast or not fast enough. My fan clutch, the used spare and the new (NOS) spare are all the same slip so am assuming they are correct.

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Beans
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Postby Beans » 22 Aug 2014 17:06

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by stevie_a</i>

... if it goes it can make a mess of the bonnet ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That's why it is always a good thing to inspect the fan on a regular basis.
When you see something lik ethis it is time to fit a new fan ...
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