Air Distribution Manifold

[sunnie]

Hi All

I have accidently cut into this part and i cannot find a part no.
Can someone help me
Can it be braised and are any out there that i can purchase.
Just want to know the difference between fix and buy another.



Ta
Sunnie

[Hasbeen]

Wow! I have never seen one of those. I didn't think there were any cars in Oz that still had them. That is the first photo of one I've seen.

Try Greg Tunstall mechanical, on 3821 0622. He is Capalaba way somewhere, but I've not seen his new place. He stocks a lot of 7 stuff, new & second hand, so may have one.

Hasbeen

[busheytrader]

Are those the pipes that feed fresh air into the exhaust side of the cylinder head to keep down the emissions?

When I bought my range rover engine for my V8 conversion, I had one fitted to each cylinder head. I was advised to ditch them but keep the threaded fittings for use with 8mm ball bearings to seal the redundant vent holes. No issues with removing these in the UK.

Adam




TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion and big brake kits.

[Cobber]

You should be able to get that brazed, or better still
I'd cut the screw fittings as mentioned by Adam, but I normally weld over the hole in the hex head of the fitting to seal them up, then they just look like a bolt.

"Keep calm, relax, focus on the problem & PULL THE BLOODY TRIGGER"

80'Triumph TR7, 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
'98 MG-F, 69'Ford F250.

[Workshop Help]

Kind Gentle Men from Oz-land, yes, this is the famous A.I.R. manifold line from the air pump to the ports on the head by the exhaust valve. It's purpose is to direct pressurized air into the exhaust pulse in an effort to provide a sort of second burn of the unburned hydrocarbons for emissions purposes. It is also one of the first things disposed of when the pump begins to whine and grind.

Mine is still kept in the machine shed as a sort of souvenir from days gone by.


Mildred Hargis

[Stag76]

The best thing to do is to block the holes in the head either by welding as Cobber says, or using brass plugs, and also remove the pump. We don't have to go through emissions testing (yet).

TR7 Convertible
Sprint Motor
MegaSquirt EFI

[busheytrader]

As per the Range Rover specialist's advice in Pangbourne, I cut the pipes to free off the threaded components then placed a 6 or 8mm ball bearing (this was back in 1991 so can't remember which) in each of the threaded holes in the cylinder heads and then replaced and torqued up the fittings. The curvature of the ball bearing seals up the hole in the head and the hole in the fitting . Cheap and simple back in the day and still there holding fast 23 years later.

If you don't weld or have machinery to fit plugs this may work for you.