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FASD

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
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john lewis
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FASD

Postby john lewis » 31 May 2014 13:15

have the FASD choking system, before I start car spring in black tube between carbs is about 1/2 way up, when I start car spring goes down and car idles a little rough,but after car is warm spring stays down and works and sounds great, from what I read spring should stay up at first to increase idle, then go down to decrease idle am I understanding that right, also when I give gas with pedal I see spring go up and down is that normal,thanking u in advance john

[https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B-xpqUoPqqA/UgJDDG2KL1I/AAAAAAAAA8w/gRRAnRFDF5Q/w305-h198-no/IMG_4425R.jpg
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sst
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Postby sst » 05 Jun 2014 11:03

Hi John - I keep seeing this message at work and keep forgetting to check a little online course I made years ago, discussing the FASD, at home - its blocked at work.. I THINK the address is:
http://www.xrocks.net/fasd.html

..but I might have moved it a while back.. try that first - if it doesn't pop up I'll try to get the correct addy for you.. I do mention whether the lever should be up or down and when - just can't remember.. I'll try to check back later tonight at home..

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TRiffic
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Postby Workshop Help » 05 Jun 2014 11:19

Good to hear from you again, Steve! Would you be averse to posting your excellent article on the FASD in The Workshop Manual? It would be a valued addition and provide you with instant fame and notoriety.

Mildred Hargis
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Postby john lewis » 05 Jun 2014 11:48

I have read this article before and if I am understanding it right when u first start car the little spring should stay up till water heats wax then spring goes down, when I start car spring goes down right away. so I am assuming wax bulb is bad I have another but when i pulled on it rod came out I so figure it would not be worth changing, after car is warm works ok thinking i may just haft to learn to live with it had it apart and cleaned it 3 times,

[https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B-xpqUoPqqA/UgJDDG2KL1I/AAAAAAAAA8w/gRRAnRFDF5Q/w305-h198-no/IMG_4425R.jpg
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sst
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Postby sst » 05 Jun 2014 18:40

Hi Mildred! How are ya? I've been wanting to rebuild that course with 3D graphics and better animations, but I need someone who has taken an FASD apart to explain the inner guts to me so I can animate it correctly.. Would be happy to add it to the workshop manual, but would prefer to rebuild it first.. If anyone can sort of sketch the inner workings and linkage or something for me, that would be great..

John, I've got to look it all over again - I just can't remember enough about it right now as I did that years ago.. I'm not sure how the wax bulb could go bad as its just a bulb full of wax - I almost want to think that your linkage isn't hooked up right.. When you look down the throat of the FASD the lever inside should either be up or down when the car is warm or cold - just can't remember.. if the linkage isn't right, it'll be the opposite.. i'll have to check the course when I get home to see if the lever should be up or down when the car is cold - then you can either lift or press down on it and the rpms will either go up or down.. sorry for the confusion!

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Postby Workshop Help » 05 Jun 2014 19:13

Steve, the article seems more than fine all by itself. Should you wish to edit it in the future, you can. I seem to find syntax and spelling errors each time I review an old article. Corrections are then made, which, of course, updates the date and time.

Perhaps you could just post the link to the article, if nothing else. But, the entire article would be best.

Mildred Hargis
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Postby sst » 06 Jun 2014 10:59

Mildred and John - well, I keep forgetting to check the course out when I get home, so I just sent myself an email at home to check things out later tonight when I get home.. So sorry about that..

Mildred, I want to update the animations involved.. they weren't very good and I'd like to more accurately depict what's going on linkage-wise..

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Postby john lewis » 08 Jun 2014 10:23

here is another article I found on the fasd not sure if it from sst or not artwork looks close haha, but looks like spring in air intake is down when cold and hot http://www.scribd.com/doc/49643172/FASD-Article2

[https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B-xpqUoPqqA/UgJDDG2KL1I/AAAAAAAAA8w/gRRAnRFDF5Q/w305-h198-no/IMG_4425R.jpg
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Postby sst » 09 Jun 2014 12:05

Yeah, that's the article I used to help build mine.. I drew the same diagram he had on his article - I would like to replace that diagram with a 3D model of the FASD doing what it does..

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Postby sst » 14 Jun 2014 12:27

Ok, finally remembered to check.. yeah, the FASD course thing is at:
http://www.xrocks.net/fasd.html

Here's a screen capture from the course:
Image

Read the stuff on the right column - basically if correctly set up, the lever should be even with the BOTTOM rim of the intake hole and RPMs should RISE if you lift on the lever with a screw driver..

If the lever is in the middle of the intake hole and the RPMs DROP when you raise the lever, then the FASD linkage is out of whack..

The biggest issue I found in putting the FASD back together after cleaning, was getting the rod of the bulb connected with the linkage from the FASD and having it stay put while you shove it all in and reattach the cover. I believe I had to shove down on the lever (in the intake hole) to get the linkage visible again (in the other hole which houses the bulb rod) in order to connect it with the bulb rod.. That makes sense - if you'll remember, the lever in the intake hole HAS to be LOWERED so that its even with the bottom rim of the intake hole - shoving it down like that also puts the bottom linkage (looks like a ring with a spring) into place (in the lower bulb hole) to attach to the wax bulb rod.. you hafta shove the bulb rod into that ring/spring and make sure it stays put while you shove it all back in and reattach the cover.. if that connection doesn't stay put, its not gonna work..If the lever is again back in the middle of the intake hole, you'll know its NOT attached to the wax bulb rod and the linkage has come apart.. That's what keeps happening to me.. To the point where I'm ready to go with Webers..

good luck..



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Postby Workshop Help » 14 Jun 2014 13:54

Now that that's settled, Steve, would you now please post your article to The Workshop Manual?

Mildred Hargis
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Postby sst » 14 Jun 2014 14:21

Done deal Mildred.. Sorry - haven't been on the board much lately and wasn't even aware of that forum.. Now I am and GREAT idea!

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