Water leaking from block

[jfracer03]

I have a 1980 TR7 that I've been working on and now that I've got it started there is water leaking from the engine block. Right above the water hose there is a rectangular hole that I was told is the weep hole, which is where the water is leaking out of. Do I have to replace the water pump or can I just replace the o-rings?

[FI Spyder]

It's coming from a seal in the water pump. There is a water pump kit available for about $35. There is lots of posts about this so do a search and read up. There is a reverse thread bolt to remove, a procedure to get the correct gasket(s) to get the correct clearance of impeller to cover. Good idea to read up in OEM manual. Not something you should go into blindly.

Ron spent $600 on getting a new pump professionally installed in his son's coupe. A year or so later it was leaking a gain. Did it himself with a $35 kit. Job now done properly.


- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[Workshop Help]

There will be those advocating repair of the old pump. There will also be those advocating replacement with a new pump. If you decide to go with the repair job, the knowledge learned from pulling and installing the repaired pump will be a benefit in another 6 weeks when the leak reappears. At that time you will become so enraged you will replace the leaking piece of junk with a new pump.

Mildred Hargis

[jfracer03]

Where can I find that kit? I've searched around and can't find much.

[FI Spyder]

Victoria British carry it as do British Parts North West.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

[whitenviro]

Changing the water pump isn't that difficult, but rebuilding your existing pump once you have it out may be problematic. I've tried to tear down two of them, with bad results. If you aren't properly equipped and very careful, you have a strong chance of breaking the impeller while trying to remove it from the pump shaft to do your rebuild. It is cast iron and brittle. In the end, a new pump isn't that expensive.


[/img]
1980 Pageant Blue DHC with removable hardtop.

[Stag76]

For a bit more expense, you can fit an EWP, and forget about all the evils related to the mechanical pump.

Paul aka ChunkyChops has just fitted one.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Davies-Craig ... 43ca3df77f

This is an Australian EBAY Listing.

TR7 Convertible
Sprint Motor
MegaSquirt EFI

[DNK]

I'm interested in the EWP
Just can't figure out how it is mounted

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

[Chunkychops]

I refurbed my leaky pump with an ebay bought service kit but if its not done correctly, can cause further problems and expense. Have a look at this thread:

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.a ... C_ID=19683

A new water pump will cost you about £240 but, as F1 Spyder says you must have the correct gasket thickness/clearance. Ive since fitted an EWP with controller and new kenlowe fan. Cost me the best part of £400 but well worth it.

[DNK]

PICS PLEASE

Don
Stick a Wedge In It
80 TR7 V8 Kick in the pants

[Chunkychops]

Will put some pics up soon, the electric pump sits inline between the bottom rad hose and the block and is wired to a control unit in the cockpit which also turns the electric fan on and off when required via a relay.
You can set the temperature you want the car to run at and the controller does the rest. It will keep running for a couple of minutes after youve turned the ignition off to circulate the water preventing hot spots.
You need to re jig a couple of the coolant hoses and buy a blanking plug to block off the hole where the original pump sat. Theres a bit of faffing about and the expense but its worth doing if youre planning on keeping the car.

[Beans]

Make sure the mating surface of the impellor is smooth when you rebuild it ...



Some more reading here http://tr7beans.blogspot.nl/search/label/Water%20pump

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
</font id="blue"><b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Blog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

[KFSullivan]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Mildred</i>

There will be those advocating repair of the old pump. There will also be those advocating replacement with a new pump. If you decide to go with the repair job, the knowledge learned from pulling and installing the repaired pump will be a benefit in another 6 weeks when the leak reappears. At that time you will become so enraged you will replace the leaking piece of junk with a new pump.

Mildred Hargis
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

+1 here. My son and I bought the kit. We got the pump out without too many problem because we borrowed a slide hammer that made quick work of it, but once the pump was out, the "fun" really began. We broke the first pump trying to get the impeller separated from the shaft, so then I bought a used pump from someone I knew out east. We re-built this one and fitted it, but only to find it was still leaking. Finally bought a new one from VB and installed it. No drips from the start, so in hindsight I should have just bought the new pump and called it a day.

Good luck!

1980 DHC Pagaent Blue

[Stag76]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I'm interested in the EWP
Just can't figure out how it is mounted
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

There are some pictures here that show the pump mounting.

http://s991.photobucket.com/user/stag76 ... t=3&page=1


TR7 Convertible
Sprint Motor
MegaSquirt EFI