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Water Pump Removal...HELP

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rwpalmer100
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Water Pump Removal...HELP

Postby rwpalmer100 » 27 Dec 2013 16:06

I have a 1976 one owner all original TR7 I just purchased and I am replacing all the rubber, fuel pump, hoses, and water pump. I had not received my repair manual and proceeded to remove the water pump housing and it did not want to come off. After a bit of banging and moving it came off and was not in good shape so I purchased a new one from Moss and tried to remove the nut on the water pump and it broke off..I did not know at time it was let hand thread. My problem now is getting the old pump out? I have no leverage to pri it out and am stumped. Any suggestions? This is a great car and I am excited to get it going!!

Thanks in advance for your help!!


Bob Palmer

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Postby Workshop Help » 27 Dec 2013 17:03

You will need a slide hammer. Remember the bolt on top of the pump impeller is left-handed to tighten.

Mildred Hargis

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Postby rwpalmer100 » 27 Dec 2013 17:13

I broke the the bolt because I did not wait for the manual. Can't use a slide hammer and not sure what to do.


Bob Palmer

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Postby rwpalmer100 » 27 Dec 2013 18:09

Got it!!! I was able to remove the broken bolt and install the one off my new pump. I used a crow bar and it popped right out. Not bad at all with the bolt installed.

Bob Palmer

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Postby FI Spyder » 27 Dec 2013 18:23

Lesson learned the hard way"
#1) Wait/read the manual.
#2) take picture as you proceed so you know how to put it back together.

We've all done them in one form or another.

I don't know if it will come out without taking the remainder of the bolt out. Janey ran into the exact same problem. Don't know if she ever resolved it. Depending on amount of thread/bolt exposed you mat have several options.

1) Drill a slot in the bolt with a Dremel and see if you can get it out with a screwdriver.

2) Weld a nut to the remaining bolt and see if you can now get it out with a wrench.

3) If the bolt broke beneath the surface of the impeller and it broke in such a way that there is a surface you can catch a punch on you might be able tap the surface at an angle with a hammer and punch with the vibration of hitting it, it might work it's way out. That is how we used to back out bolts (albeit much smaller) at IBM when they broke below the surface. There may be a problem with gear teeth though.

Read this post.

http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=12004&whichpage=1&SearchTerms=broken%2Cbolt%2Cwater%2Cpump

Before you wrench, tap, twist etc. make sure you're going the right way because if you're not deliberate you may find yourself going the way you're used to (the wrong way in this instance).



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Postby rwpalmer100 » 27 Dec 2013 19:46

Thanks for being so responsive!!

I have installed the new pump after cleaning and sanding the inside walls for a clean fit. I don't think that I am all the way down because the gap between the cover and the block seems to be too high. I have all the gaskets sizes. Don't want too pound on it..any ideas??

Bob Palmer

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Postby Beans » 27 Dec 2013 21:22

See your other (double [:p]) post

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1976 TR7 FHC (needs some TLC ...)
1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, a.k.a. Kermette)
1981 TR7 FHC (Sprint engined a.k.a. 't Kreng
</font id="blue"><b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

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Postby FI Spyder » 27 Dec 2013 23:14

That's where picture would help to remind you of how it was originally.(too late). The manual has a procedure to figure out which gaskets to use. Too thin a gasket and the rotor will hit the cover (not good). Too thick and there will be excessive clearance between rotor and cover (won't move the water as effectively).



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Postby john 215 » 28 Dec 2013 05:29

Hi,

Make sure the bush in the block is in good condition whilst the pump is out also, if not going fully down then check no old coolant sitting in this bush, it will hydraulic as you fit the pump so not allowing it to go fully home.

Cheers John

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Postby rwpalmer100 » 28 Dec 2013 18:01

You are right. I should have taken a pic with phone before removing. I did remove the new one and blew out the seating hole of any possible junk and it slipped right in with a good push. The tolerance is much closer and the correct gasket will be used.

Thanks again guys!!

Bob Palmer

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