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Great TR7 Jobs

Here’s where to discuss anything specific about your standard(ish) car or something that applies to the model in general.
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smoking joe
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Great TR7 Jobs

Postby smoking joe » 02 Dec 2013 11:19

Just thought I would post, having completed 2 well
known 7 jobs, been putting them off ... , namely the lower
steering column bush, which took 4hrs excl tea break, using poly bush well heated in boiling water. What I didn't get from advice
found online was how difficult sliding the column back up can
be and the need to force the gap open on the steering joint.

The second one being the 5 speed gear lever remote bushes, I knew it was worn, but I only found the remains of 1 and half bushes and, only gearing issues were getting into second and reverse, now all solid, but when cold still not keen on second, think I will change to Redline MTL in the spring when using again. Remote bush changes took 3.5 hours, so not too bad, really pleased overall.

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 02 Dec 2013 12:19

Congratulations Joe, you're well on your way to becoming a fully qualified 7 nut case.

Hasbeen

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 02 Dec 2013 13:22

Yes, I always book a weekend for first time jobs, I like to clean/paint/derust everything when I have it apart. Redline may or may not work. I tried Pennzoil synthetic but it was too slippery for the syncros. You have to match the slipperyness of the oil to what the syncros require. The recommended oil is Pennzoil MTF (it used to be ATF in years past). Do a search for much discussion on this.

Synthetic is not necessarily better, especially with old machinery that was designed before the advent of synthetic.



- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT
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jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 05 Dec 2013 02:54

You should not have to force the gap open at all. It ONLY goes on in one position, so you may have been off a tooth.

Instructions:
<center><b>
Replacing the Lower Steering Bushing.</b></center>

There is a common problem with ALL TR7/8s with the lower steering bushing at the
firewall disintegrating and falling out. To diagnose this problem, grab your steering
wheel with both hands and trying tipping it up and down. If there is movement with a
loud chunking noise, then your bushing has gone south for the winter.
It is a straightforward replacement; it's just a pain in the bottom to do. You will only want to replace it once per car you ever own.
- Acquire a steering bush replacement.
- On the lower steering column under the dash is a clamp. One side has two bolts. They
will not do you any good, so leave them alone. The other side has a locking nut and a
setscrew and this is the side you will work with. Back off the locking nut and then loosen
the setscrew without removing it.
- Turn the steering wheel so you have access to the upper bolt on the universal joint on
the steering shaft right up against the firewall in the engine compartment. <i>NOTE: You
will have to align this shaft and hole exactly when reassembling the joint, as the bolt will only go in, in one position.</i>
- Loosen the nut and remove the bolt. Spray penetration oil on the shaft and the
universal joint at the firewall.
- Crawl back in under the steering wheel and work the bottom part of the steering shaft
between the clamp and the foot-well to move it up into the upper part of the steering
shaft.
- When the shaft is free and pulled up into the foot-well, move it to one side allowing you to see the hole in the foot-well.
- Crawl back out of the foot-well and then crawl under the car and retrieve the big flat
washer that fell on the ground.
- Place the new bushing in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes to soften the material.
- Pull out the bushing and push it home from under the hole at the firewall.
- When pushing it in fails, (it always does!) trying cutting the bushing from the outside to the inside hole. Now you can twist the bushing into a screw type coil and work it into the hole that way.
- Apply grease to the inside of the hole and align the shaft on the inside of the foot well with the bushing and press it through.
- Now have someone with small hands hold the washer as you push the shaft a little
farther through the hole.
- Have them align the universal joint with the shaft and push the shaft home.
- Replace the bolt and nut in the universal joint and tighten. <i>(When the bolt will not go in, pull the shaft back and realign it with the universal joint in the proper position!)</i>
- Set the locking screw and tighten the locking washer.

Allow a day to complete this task. Have plenty of cold refreshments on hand for use
after you have completed the above task and never volunteer to do it on someone else's TR7/8! Somethings are best learned on your own!

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

frankman
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Postby frankman » 05 Dec 2013 09:22

Hi Clay . you write again with hieroglyphs [8)]

Hello from Switzerland

Frank

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 05 Dec 2013 11:46

They were bullets when I posted it!

Clay

[url="http://www.jclay.me/"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://www.triumphtechnical.me"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8MWEvqOpX3udEF4SmFQUW9RS09hbU5uNW5Wd0xrUQ/edit"]My Public Folder[/url],

Workshop Help
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Postby Workshop Help » 05 Dec 2013 18:15

There is an easier alternative, and for your comfort & convenience it is hereby reposted. However, it has not been sanitized for your protection.
And, just so you know as of this date this El Cheapo and quicky fix is still hanging in there.


Posted - 24 Dec 2011 : 15:08:45
Here we have yet another, 'And there I was story'.

For we brave souls equipped with the superior Zenith-Stromberg carburetors, we are now blessed to have a source of the O-rings that seal(?) the plug on the bottom of the float bowl. After all these millennia the original O-rings have hardened allowing fuel seepage. The fact our modern U.S. fuel is such a toxic swill is no help either. So, there I was, pulling the front float bowl with the carburetor remaining in place, as I have been doing for the past 35 years and, lo & behold, one of the long screws had vibrated out somewhere along the yellow brick road. Also, the bottom of the float bowl plug was kind of gasey/slimy. That accounts for the recent heavier odor of gasoline emanating from the right side hood louvers.

Here it is 2:30 in the afternoon and I need an O-ring and another float bowl screw. So, like a shot, off to Lowes Building Materials I go with the old O-ring and the other float bowl screw in hand.

The first aisle to visit is the nut/bolt/& screw section. Yes, there it is, a small bag of 1 1/2" by 8-32 machine screws with matching nuts for $0.96US. That was easy enough, now about that O-ring. Where do you suppose O-rings can be found? How about the Plumbing aisle?

Sure enough, right between the faucet and drain parts was the O-ring section. In fact, a wide variety of various sizes. So, for $2.97US, the size 12 package of O-rings matched up perfectly. I'm feeling lucky by now. What else can I find? I know, how about a grommet to provide a quick fix for the steering column/firewall bushing?

Back to the Hardware aisles. Seeing how the diameter of our steering column as it passes thru the firewall, or bulkhead for those who speak a different form of the English language, is a little less than 3/4", I spy a package containing a 1 1/8"OD by 23/32"ID rubber grommet for the princely sum of $1.97US. Next item needed to complete the repair for the steering column bush is a 3/4"ID flat rubber washer. So, back to Plumbing we go and, yes, there it is hanging from the peg next to the drain parts for the price of $0.99US for two.

As you may be aware, the parts that actually wear out on our mighty steeds are typically the soft bits and pieces. We should be eternally thankful the design engineers at Standard-Triumph had the foresight to use commonly available sized components and NOT try to reinvent the wheel as the Oriental engineers do on all their products. To wander into a hardware store and find Triumph parts at prices so low it makes my pretty little head spin can rightly be considered a Festivus miracle!

Mildred Hargis

P.S.

The trick to installing the grommet and flat washer in the hole in the firewall is to;
1. Remove the remainder of the old bushing.
2. Cut the washer and grommet on one side.
3. Slide the grommet around the steering column from the inside and fit, using a small screwdriver, into place in the firewall hole.
4. Fit the flat washer on the steering column on the outside of the firewall. This washer is needed to keep the steering column from moving in and out, thus serving as a sort of thrust washer.
5. With your trusty tube of Super Glue, glue together the cut ends of the washer and the grommet. Try NOT to glue your fingers together yet again!

FAQ's:
A. Yes, this quick fix is not considered a permanent repair.
B. Yes, I did do this on July 20, 2011 in the motel parking lot with the temperature hovering at 104 degrees Fahrenheit in about 15 minutes at 6:30PM after work.
C. Yes, the fix is still holding in there and I do have a spare grommet in the parts bag in the trunk.
D. No, my wild days of social dating are long in the past, but I do appreciate your kind thoughts.

Mildred Hargis

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