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Fuel Pump Replacement

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UKPhilTR7
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Fuel Pump Replacement

Postby UKPhilTR7 » 27 Nov 2007 11:06

<b><font color="green"><font face="Verdana">I have finally decided to replace my old leaking fuel pump with a new one. I have had a look and from what I can see there are bolts holding it to the engine. Am I right in thinking it is quite a simple job to replace, just take the bolts out, take of the two fuel pipes and then replace with the new one? Not forgetting to block the two fuel pipes to ensure that petrol does not go all over the place.

Any thoughts, suggestions or help with this would be great. </b></font id="green"></font id="Verdana">

Beans
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Postby Beans » 27 Nov 2007 18:00

It can sometimes be a pig of a job to get the fuelpump's leverarm on the camlobe correctly. Also make sure that you have the correct gasket thicknes in relation to the lever arm length.
Otherwise indeed as straightforward as you thought ot to be.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

sst
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Postby sst » 27 Nov 2007 19:51

UKPhil - I was able to change mine out and everybody knows what a bonehead under the hood I am haha

Yup - all you gotta do is what you mention - plus keep Bean's points in mind as well..

Son of a .... THATS gonna leave a mark!

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 27 Nov 2007 22:18

Being old, & somewhat less dexterous than in my youth, I had some
difficulty getting the second bolt into place, without getting the
leverarm off the cam. The steering colum made it hard to get at the thing.

When I was having flooding problems I had the pumps off a number of
times. After the third time I got a couple of studds, & nuts, to
replace the bolts. So much easier with the studs, holding the thing in place.

I have since replaced a number of such bolts with studs.

Hasbeen

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 28 Nov 2007 07:53

<b><font face="Verdana"><font color="green">Thanks for this guys, I got my new shiny pump yesterday and had time to have a look at it. With it I got two gaskets and with reference to Beans comments I was wondering how I would know what the correct size is and if I should use both the gaskets? Or is it a case of just take of the old one and see if there are two on it?
Another thing I was thinking is do I have to do anything with the crank arm such as grease it, or will the oil in the engine be OK to do this? Lol as you can tell from my questions I have not yet passed my basic motor mechanics course[:D][:D][:)], but hoping to soon.

Cheers for this, Phil</b></font id="Verdana"></font id="green">

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 28 Nov 2007 10:00

Phil, the length of the arm is what requires different spacers.

When you get the old one off, compare the 2 arms, to see if the old
one is shorter than the new one. If it is, you will need to space
the new one, to the same distance into the block, when installed.

If the arm is much too long, it will get broken. If its just a
little too long, it will produce higher fuel pressure, & perhaps
make the carbys flood. If its too short it will not pump enough fuel.

When you get the old one off, check carefully that you have not left
a spacer behind, stuck to the block. They often stay on the blook,
rather than come with the old pump.

This sounds complicated, but its harder to describe than do, so
don't be put off.

Hasbeen

UKPhilTR7
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Postby UKPhilTR7 » 01 Dec 2007 18:39

<b><font color="green"><font face="Verdana">Guys, thanks for this help, the section about arm length Hasbeen, sure does make perfect sense. I have just taken the old one of without any problems and I am hoping the the new one goes on as easily tomorrow.
Just one thing before I put it all back together with the new one.
<font color="blue"> Do I have to grease the arm before I put it in or is the lube going to come from the engine oil?</font id="blue">
I personally think that I do not need to but thought I best make sure before I put it all back. </b></font id="green"></font id="Verdana">

Beans
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Postby Beans » 01 Dec 2007 21:52

Lubrication is from the engine oil.
A bit off sticky oil on the lever arm won't do any harm though

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="blue"></center>

UKPhilTR7
TRiffic
Posts: 1931
Joined: 24 Mar 2005 12:52
Location: West Midlands, England

Postby UKPhilTR7 » 03 Dec 2007 07:54

<b><font color="green"><font face="Verdana">Guys,
Thanks for your help with this. I took the pump of on Saturday night and put the new one on Sunday morning. The best thing is that it all worked, well it looks like it has so far lol. I am so chuffed that I have been able to do this job on my own (with the advise of you guys), as it is the first job I have done like this on my own.
I also think that my warm starting issues have been resolved by changing the pump over. I had her running on the drive for a little bit last night and every time I restarted her, it was a lot smoother than what it had been before. All I need to do now is get the uprated starter motor and hopefully all of these changes will help my girl start first time every time. </b></font id="green"></font id="Verdana">

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