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Stromberg Removal ?

Posted: 29 Jun 2017 11:28
by Groodie
So, I've read a lot of interesting/ helpful hints about Strombergs here. My situation : Tr7 hasn't been started in 10 yrs. Upon starting ( with fresh gas, after draining old gas ) , fuel pouring in to carbon canister ( sticking needle valve , most likely ? ) . My question : Why not pull the carb/ carbs ? Some folks seem to be against that , and recommend just removing bowl to gain access to Float/ Needle Valve . Why are some folks hesitant to remove the whole carb ?

Re: Stromberg Removal ?

Posted: 29 Jun 2017 13:46
by saabfast
After 10 years they are probably full of dried out fuel residue and varnish. Removing to clean them out properly would seem a good idea.

Re: Stromberg Removal ?

Posted: 29 Jun 2017 15:12
by FI Spyder
You could do half a job and get it running or remove them and do a proper job of cleaning them inside and out, check spindle wear, check rubber seals in pistons (sometimes you can get fine cracks in the rubber that prevent them from working right). Depends how rushed you are, what your end goal is.

Re: Stromberg Removal ?

Posted: 29 Jun 2017 19:31
by Groodie
Thanks for the feedback . Is there anything tricky about pulling these off, or is it as a simple as removing fuel lines, unscrewing bolts , and pulling it off ?

Re: Stromberg Removal ?

Posted: 29 Jun 2017 21:18
by saabfast
That's about it. They are quite easy and generally, once running, only the diaphragm goes wrong and that takes seconds to change from the top. Setting up the float height is more easily done on the bench although I believe some do it in situ.

Re: Stromberg Removal ?

Posted: 30 Jun 2017 04:12
by Hasbeen
I have only had one Stromberg carb 7. It had an intermittent flooding problem, particularly when stopped for a short while when at full operating temperature, for a couple of minutes to half an hour. Once started it would cough & splutter for quite some time.

I did all the carb things, & it made no difference at all. Then I tested the fuel pressure, & discovered someone must have been mucking with the mechanical fuel pump. They had either removed it, & lost the spacer between it & the block, or fitted a new pump that required a spacer, without one.

Once the pressure was reduced from over 3 PSI to 2 PSI, all those carb problems disappeared. Isn't it amazing how efficient most carbs are if you feed them the pressure they should be fed, & don't add water or dirt to the mixture, yet the poor things get blamed for most of our problems.

Hasbeen

Re: Stromberg Removal ?

Posted: 30 Jun 2017 13:55
by Groodie
Any tricks/ special tools to remove those rear bolts on those carbs ?