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I've changed the joints on the column, changed the steering rack (brand new) and both track rod ends yet the steering still feels dead. It's still heavy at speed and doesn't centre with driver input coming off corners. My other 7 is spot on and has just the standard set up and feels great at speed and the steering returns to centre with no effort coming off corners and islands.

TR7 Sprint & TR8

Also just tried to move it into the garage and the steering has never been so hard turn.

TR7 Sprint & TR8

I'd put it up on jack stands and try it with no weight on the wheels to see if there are any binds in the travel lock to lock. I also would not assume the new rack is greased and give it the six shots, three with it cranked all the way one way, three all the way in the other just to be safe. Failing any finds there check the caster angles are equal. Although not adjustable per se I believe moving the front roll bar left to right will change them and is adjustable to an extent that way. You will need to have it on a machine for that and you check the toe in as well. If I recall the toe in is around zero at one end of acceptable but I would want some to minimize chances of steering wheel wobble.

Check that the upper strut assembly is greased and not dried out, I prefer the roller kit myself (I have the needle bearing one) especially since I have the small power steering TR8 wheel without the TR8 power steering.

- - -TR7 Spider - - - 1978 Spitfire- - - - 1976 Spitfire - - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra - Yellow TCT

Thanks Spyder. Who supplied the roller bearing kit?

TR7 Sprint & TR8

My Daughter 7 has greatly improved steering after fitting a roller bearing kit from Rimmer Bros part number RB7709.




<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by John Wood</i>

Thanks Spyder. Who supplied the roller bearing kit?

TR7 Sprint & TR8

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Mine had a similar problem when I got it, turned out po had changed a bush in the column and not fitted it correctly. The tab wasn't in the hole. New bush sorted it out

I used the S&S ball bearing kit when I originally rebuilt the front about 8 years ago. It only seemed to make a marginal difference then and still seemed hard years later. I rebuilt it a couple of months back with new strut inserts and found that the grease in the bearings had gone solid. I had also retained the standard nylon washers (seem to remember this was an option in the instructions. This time I left them out, cleaned out the bearings and lubed with MS3 grease and lubed the rack middle and ends. I also fitted a 13" steering which my son had given me, a bit worried if I could turn the wheel at all! Actually it is is all now very easy and smooth, bets it has ever been even with a 13" wheel.

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1 (now passed to son for his family car)
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto (now gone that others might live)
Saab 9000 2.3 LPT Auto (sold on, wish I had it back)
Saab 9-5 2.3 Vector Auto Estate
'81 TR7 DHC

I have needle roller bearings from Robsport in mine. My steering was as light as the TR7 should have been anyway but it has made it even lighter. Only on tarmac at parking speeds is there any resistance.

Mr. Wood's problem does sound like something has not been put in correctly. I was talking to Chris T. about the service repair sheet that went to all dealers regarding the wheel wobble which we have discussed many times on this forum. It seems there is a definite way to assemble the track rods and if it's wrong that introduces the wobble. Could it be something similar causing heavy steering that most cars seem to suffer from nowadays?

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I made and fitted the 'anti dive' kit - made no difference to the 'diving' but the steering is much sharper and the turn in to corners much sharper. I also greased the struts with Moly grease - also in the steering rack. Steering is fine - and that's with 195/60 X 14 tyres. I believe many say the roller/needle top bearings in the struts make the steering too light. I'm certainly fine with mine as it is !

Strip down again is on the cards next weekend. Going to drop the legs and re grease and fit the rollers. I've got to get this car working well for the 21/09.

TR7 Sprint & TR8

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>

I'd put it up on jack stands and try it with no weight on the wheels to see if there are any binds in the travel lock to lock. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I agree, some racks are worn in the middle and so to take up the slop people may fit extra spacers - this means there is binding as you move away from the central position. This should not happen with a genuine brand new rack. It might happen with a recon.

You should also check if the rack adjustment screw is too tight. May sound daft - but are you inflating the tyres hard enough?

Mine was very stiff after a recent rebuild and wouldn't auto centre and a quick squirt of lithium grease on the bulkhead bush sorted it.

Cheers Paul,

1976 TR7 2.0 FHC, ACG 2367 - Carmine Red (on the road)
1980 TR7V8 3.9 DHC, Orient Blue (on the road)
1977 TR7V8 4.0 FHC rally car, ACG 35005 - Tahiti Blue (complete, no MOT)
1976 TR7 2.0 FHC, ACG 3115 - Java Green (now sold)

www.TR7.co.uk

Was that with a replacement poly bush Paul? I'm hopefully changing mine soon.

Back in the day I had to replace the top knuckle joint on the steering column as it slowly seized up. I have no idea what caused this as the 7 was a daily driver then and grease applied.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, S/S Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes all round, Anti- Dive, Strut-Top Roller Bearings, Capri Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 14" 5 Spokes or Maestro Turbo 15" Alloys, Cruise Lights, S/S Heater Pipes, Replacement Fuel Tank. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991 courtesy of S&S V8 conversion kit (built not bought) and big brake kit.

I'd replaced the bushes in the column and sprayed lithium grease in, and replaced the bush (with a blue poly one). The steering was stiff and wouldn't auto-straighten and initially thought it may be strut top but decided to spray some grease into the bulkhead bush and it sorted it.

Cheers Paul,

1976 TR7 2.0 FHC, ACG 2367 - Carmine Red (on the road)
1980 TR7V8 3.9 DHC, Orient Blue (on the road)
1977 TR7V8 4.0 FHC rally car, ACG 35005 - Tahiti Blue (complete, no MOT)
1976 TR7 2.0 FHC, ACG 3115 - Java Green (now sold)

www.TR7.co.uk