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Steering Column Bush - UKC2322

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 14 Aug 2012 23:52

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

I don't like the idea of cutting it right through - is this really necessary??
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

It's not cut right through, just a notch in the smaller shoulder that goes into hole.

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Beans
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Postby Beans » 15 Aug 2012 08:31

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>

... Of course steering shaft has to come out (no biggy, use Dremel to cut slot the shear bolts) ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
And throw them away and replace them with two (slightly adapted) allan-head bolts,
to make future removal even easier.

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<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
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bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 15 Aug 2012 09:58

Thanks again - what thread are the bolts? 'numpty' advises to simply 'remove the knuckles' and pop the bush into the bulkhead'. Sounds simple enough.... So no need to disturb the column??

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Beans
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Postby Beans » 15 Aug 2012 11:27

Not sure but I believe they are standard M10.
They are metric that's for sure.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1980 TR7 DHC (my first car, now restored and back on the road)
1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)</font id="blue">
<b>[url="http://www.tr7beans.blogspot.com/"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">My full Weblog</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url]</b></i></center>

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 15 Aug 2012 14:10

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bmcecosse</i>

'numpty' advises to simply 'remove the knuckles' and pop the bush into the bulkhead'. Sounds simple enough.... So no need to disturb the column??
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I've heard it can be "popped" in (with column remoced) but depends on the bush you have. The original runner or soft poly might do it but not the blue poly one I had (maybe if it was warmer/softer?) Can't see it myself as the inside diameter would compress as it made it past the flange, how could it do that with column in the way. I'd like to see it done (need a youtube video).

Good idea om the column bolts, Beans, but didn't want to affect the "originality" factor.[:p]

Actually never thought of it but I did for the gas filler flange.

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bmcecosse
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Postby bmcecosse » 15 Aug 2012 20:49

Thanks Spyder - it's the blue poly one as in your picture. The 'notch' looks fine to me - but I wonder if it can possibly squeeze in past the shaft.....which is what 'numpty' suggests.

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FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 16 Aug 2012 00:07

I could barely get it in with the shaft out. The warmer it is the softer it will be. I put it in water I had boiled in microwave but it was chilly in garage. As you twist it in you need one finger in the hole to grip it to twist it in.



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Postby bmcecosse » 20 Aug 2012 20:36

Well - the job turned out to be MUCH easier than I expected from all the comments above.... I tried to move the column shear bolts with a punch and hammer - not a chance ! The Allen grub screw undid without difficulty, and the column lower half slid up easily. The bush went in easily - WITH that little notch cut out (thanks for that tip!), and no hot water, and a final push with a wide blade screwdriver. All back together in less than an hour, and what a difference to the steering! I had thought I was needing new universal joints - which are not inexpensive... The new poly bush has eliminated all the play and the steering is much nicer. Well worth doing - and not nearly as scary a job as had been suggested ![:)] Thanks all who encouraged me to get the job done.

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Steering column lower bush failure

Postby Graham Robertson » 02 Sep 2013 18:16

I was hearing a clunking noise and vibration through the steering wheel. On checking under the bonnet the lower steering column bush has disintegrated at the bulkhead.

I've carried out a search of previous threads which have been helpful. I've ordered a new bush and will try fitting it at the week-end, but can someone just confirm from which side the new bush is inserted, i.e. from the engine side or the foot well side?

Graham



Graham 1982 TR7 dhc Pharoah Gold

Milanoverde
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Postby Milanoverde » 02 Sep 2013 19:56

The footwell side. Not sure if thats critical, tho.

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Postby jeffremj » 03 Sep 2013 05:31

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I've carried out a search of previous threads which have been helpful. I've ordered a new bush and will try fitting it at the week-end, but can someone just confirm from which side the new bush is inserted, i.e. from the engine side or the foot well side?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Engine side.

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Postby Milanoverde » 03 Sep 2013 10:24

Oh well, hows that for clarity! I know on mine, the bushing was inserted from the foot well side. Maybe mines not OE?
Mildred?
Can you advise? Anthony[:D]

Workshop Help
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Steering Column Bush - UKC2322

Postby Workshop Help » 03 Sep 2013 11:26

...I know, how about a grommet to provide a quick fix for the steering column/firewall bushing?

Back to the Hardware aisles. Seeing how the diameter of our steering column as it passes thru the firewall, or bulkhead for those who speak a different form of the English language, is a little less than 3/4", I spy a package containing a 1 1/8"OD by 23/32"ID rubber grommet for the princely sum of $1.97US. Next item needed to complete the repair for the steering column bush is a 3/4"ID flat rubber washer. So, back to Plumbing we go and, yes, there it is hanging from the peg next to the drain parts for the price of $0.99US for two.


The trick to installing the grommet and flat washer in the hole in the firewall is to;
1. Remove the remainder of the old bushing.
2. Cut the washer and grommet on one side.
3. Slide the grommet around the steering column from the inside and fit, using a small screwdriver, into place in the firewall hole.
4. Fit the flat washer on the steering column on the outside of the firewall. This washer is needed to keep the steering column from moving in and out, thus serving as a sort of thrust washer.
5. With your trusty tube of Super Glue, glue together the cut ends of the washer and the grommet.

FAQ's:
A. Yes, this quick fix is not considered a permanent repair.
B. Yes, the fix is still holding in there and I do have a spare grommet in the parts bag in the trunk.

Graham Robertson
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Steering Column Bush - UKC2322

Postby Graham Robertson » 03 Sep 2013 18:55

My new bush arrived today. I see that the two sides (inner and outer) are of different diameters. Do I push the widest diameter in first from the engine side?

Graham

Graham 1982 TR7 dhc Pharoah Gold

Workshop Help
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Steering Column Bush - UKC2322

Postby Workshop Help » 03 Sep 2013 20:36

The larger side goes on the outside of the firewall/bulkhead. This larger flat side serves as a kind of thrust washer to limit steering column movement.

As such, installing the bushing is best done with the steering column removed from the outside. This is a lot of work. A whole lot of work. If you'll read my above article, there is a much easier way around this problem. And, after two years my little parking lot fix is still holding up.

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