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Strut bumpstops
Posted: 04 Jun 2009 00:09
by TR7Aaron
The rubber bumpstops on my front struts are pretty much rotted away. Are they really needed? The coil springs would stack solid before the strut body would hit the top plate, so why are they there at all?
Am I wrong on this?
Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)

Posted: 04 Jun 2009 00:36
by Workshop Help
Yes, they are needed. You can order new ones and that costs lots of money and time plus the usual overblown shipping costs. Or, you can do something completely different.
If there is an Auto Zone auto parts store down the road from you, wander in and ask for Strut Cushion,(tm), which is a MacPherson Strut Bumper/Boot Kit. The part number on the package we have reads 141551. It is made by Gabriel in India. We have no idea what car it is intended for. But, it fits and works with no modifications. This item takes the place of the crumbly bumpstop and the easily deteriorated outer boot. Did I mention it is waiting for you down the street?
We have used this part for several years and it has held up better than the stock parts. One small issue, however. It is possible the part number may have changed since we bought these boot kits. Try to let the store personnel give you access to the parts shelves so you can examine the contents of the various boot kits. Being on a first name basis with the folks in our stores, they let me wander the aisles knowing I will put things back where they belong when I come in with the latest project.
Mildred Hargis
Posted: 04 Jun 2009 01:54
by TR7Aaron
As usual Mildred, you are an amazing source of info. However, on my car (and I have no idea if the springs are factory stock or not), They springs would have to be stacked solid before the top of the strut housing would even come close to hitting the underside of the top plate, and if they get stacked solid, the top of the housing cannot make contact with the plate, so what is the function of these rubber bumpstops?
Also, do you have a replacement source for the rubber bellows as well? One of mine is OK, the other is rotted.
Thanks again.
Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)

Posted: 04 Jun 2009 01:57
by Underdog
Mine fell apart a long time ago. About a year after I installed them if I remember. I have KYB shocks and Woodys springs. Lots of miles and a recent track day with no signs of bottoming that caused damage. I don't see why they are there either. No late model cars I work on have them. If you really need a suspension limiter, this doesn't work IMO.
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
Posted: 04 Jun 2009 02:03
by busheytrader
Hi,
Over 20 years ago I fitted Triumphtune bumpstops to my front struts.
They were shorter than standard to allow more suspension travel, conical to provide a more progressive action when they did bottom out and made of poly material for a long life. That's what the brochure said.
I replaced my Spax shox last year after one of them was leaking. The bumpstops still looked brand new.
Adam
TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991
Posted: 04 Jun 2009 02:06
by Underdog
The bellows? Just caught the other part of your question. I put new ones on mine and they lasted as long as the bump stops. Not needed IMO.
72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
Posted: 04 Jun 2009 03:04
by TR7Aaron
I think the bellows are necessary because without them, the bare steel strut shaft would get wet and rust would set in. Once rust starts on the shaft, the rougher rusted surface would ruin the seals on the strut housing. Just MHO...[:)]
Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)

Posted: 04 Jun 2009 03:13
by jclay (RIP 2018)
We are getting ready to rebuild the struts on a friends TR8. I know that he is going to order the parts from Woody. I had a conversation about the job with Woody and he said that he does not replace the bump stops as they are not needed. You have to remember that modern gas shocks were not available when our cars were built. I installed them three years ago when I rebuilt my front end, but probably not do it with the next one.
jclay
[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]
Posted: 04 Jun 2009 03:21
by Workshop Help
Ahem! As mentioned above, Part # 141551 is a combination Strut Boot AND Bump Stop. It's an all in one deal. It mounts on the inside of the spring so it is somewhat protected should you wish to go off-roading 'thru the briars and the brambles where the rabbits wouldn't go'. That's a line from a Johnny Horton song from about 1960, I believe was the 'Battle of New Orleans'.
As the boot is being installed, applying a dab of Girling rubber grease to the shaft is good preventative maintenance to delay the advent of shaft corrosion.
Good Night for now.
Mildred Hargis
Posted: 04 Jun 2009 04:18
by Hasbeen
I used to make a lot of money with exchange reconditioned struts for
Cortinas, & Triumph 2000, the first cars to be fitted with them in
Oz. These early ones DID NOT have boots on them, & many had worn, &
scored shafts, in not too many miles. I even rebuilt some for the
local Ford dealer, when they had become scored, & started leaking in
less than 6,000 miles.
Warrenties were short, & so was the life of the struts, without dust
protection. They payed for my Brabham.
When it comes to bump stops, you blokes must have very stiff after
market springs, or you drive like kitty cats.
The bump stops are to stop the front tyre hitting the inner guard,
when the thing is depressing the outside spring under cornering
load, not the strut bottoming.
With my stock 7, with a very good spension, in as new condition, I
only had to get a little bit carried away in my impersonation of
Fangio, Stirling Moss, or Shoemaker, [for you young ones], for my
front tyres to come into contact with the vertical stiffening bit,
under the inner guard, under cornering load.
The bump stops I had fitted were not long enough. A real bummer, I
hate doing things twice, but I had to fit longer ones.
Three of the four 7s I have owned have done this, when bought, due
to rotted bump stops. Even with its stiff springs, & heavy anti roll
bar, the 8 did it, when we were silly enough to reuse some stock
rubber bump stops, whick looked OK.
Stick them in, they are not too much load to carry.
Hasbeen
Posted: 04 Jun 2009 04:31
by windy one
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by TR7Aaron</i>
As usual Mildred, you are an amazing source of info. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I wuz just gonna say the same exact thing about y'all! [:D]
Johnny
Posted: 04 Jun 2009 11:09
by Mowog73
I'm using Energy Suspension's bump stops for a 70-78 Nissan, part# 7.6104 The dimensions are the same as the original, except they are approx 3/4" shorter than stock, which means that they will work perfectly with uprated spring. Oh yeah, and the cost is $9/pair.
Mark
<font size="1">1973 MGBGT Teal Blue
1976 TR7 Mimosa
1980 Spitfire 1500 Vermillion</font id="size1">