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head bolt Torque

Posted: 29 May 2009 13:38
by Randy
Can anyone tell me what the required torque is for the head bolt / nuts on a '76 TR7?

Posted: 29 May 2009 13:50
by bmcecosse
Says 50 ft lbf in the Haynes! Make sure the threads are clean and lightly oiled.

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Posted: 29 May 2009 15:16
by Workshop Help
Noooo. In Section 06-1 of the 1976 Triumph TR7 Repair Operation Manual, Part No. RTC 9200, the factory specified torque setting for the Cylinder Head to Block is 55 lbf ft, or 75Nm, or 7,6 kgf m. To use less than the specified amount is to court leakage. Be sure and follow the correct sequence pattern when torqueing them down.

We have several of the Haynes manuals in the library and have come to consider them as not all that reliable. One local sage remarked they contain just enough information to get you in trouble. In the case of the 1997 Ford F-150 pickup electric window motors, the Haynes manuals lack of relevant information almost cost me the tip of a finger. We are not going to say they have only the value of used toilet paper, but we will opine one should obtain the factory publications and study them for any repair project one has in mind.

Mildred Hargis

Posted: 29 May 2009 15:58
by tr7sprint1
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Mildred</i>

Noooo. In Section 06-1 of the 1976 Triumph TR7 Repair Operation Manual, Part No. RTC 9200, the factory specified torque setting for the Cylinder Head to Block is 55 lbf ft, or 75Nm, or 7,6 kgf m. To use less than the specified amount is to court leakage. Be sure and follow the correct sequence pattern when torqueing them down.
Mildred Hargis


<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

the torque and torque sequence has change since that tr7 ROM in a couple of technical service bulletins (the headgasket also changed). I'll look it up and post later tonight. i do agree with you on the Haynes manuals.





<b>"GETTING SPEED OUT OF A LOW POWERED CAR IS OFTEN MORE REWARDING, THAN WITH TIRE-SMOKING BRUTES" </b>

Posted: 29 May 2009 16:46
by Beans
Torque sequence in the Haynes manual is correct (it corresponds with the later (1981) BL workshop manual)
Start with the middle bolt followed by the middle stud and work outwards in the same sequence starting right of the middle,.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

Posted: 29 May 2009 20:03
by FI Spyder
1980 manual says 50ft/lb. Don't forget to retorque every 500 miles for the next few 500 miles. Haynes are better than nothing. 'nuff said.


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
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Posted: 29 May 2009 20:12
by bmcecosse
I think for the size of studs/bolts - that 50 ft lbf is more than enough! 55 may just get you a snapped stud! But use your own judgment!!!!!!!!!!

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Posted: 30 May 2009 00:07
by Beans
Dunno ... mine are torqued down to 95 Nm and they didn't snap [:I]

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>