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Like buses when one gives up the Ghost so does the other, after replacing the master switch on the fixed head due to the pods not rising to the occassion (Thankyou Tony)

but on the way home from a meet Tuesday night the drophead decides not only not to raise but not to light up, lucky i had front fog lamps to get me home and no coppers around.

changed the master switch today and yipee all's well again

[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry


John

Those switches are rubbish. I always carry a spare for the occasion when they finally break.

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That was a timely purchase then John!

I think I will put my spare switch in the bag of parts/tools I carry just in case[:)]

Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!</font id="size1">

Having got a spare switch its easy to see how to dismantle and clean up the old one to carry with all the stuff we have with us all the time.

One thing just to add - when changing the switches over, take care to get the plugs on tight and then check all the wires are fully home.

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC California car that never crossed the pond, started life as KDU 315V.
1962 Triumph Courier

Are any of the wires connecting to the switch hot all the time? If a switch needs to be changed, would it be in your best interest to disconnect the battery first to avoid sparks and blown fuses?

Aaron
1976 TR7 FHC (an ongoing project)