Fitting an anti dive kit

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 26 May 2009 22:16

A lot of us have heard about the anti dive kit

but because it is an easy fit you never see one getting fitted

or even spoke about so i just thought i would do it

forgive me teaching the teachers 

Basically it is 2 aluminum blocks and 4 long bolts

the purpose is to stop the front end diving and rising under acceleration and braking

It also helps tighten up the handling

It is a common modification to the TR7

OK first I put the car up on some ramps ( we don't all have the luxury of a garage lift)

Basically the blocks go under the front anti roll bar

This is the mounting with the Rubber bush in it that has to get lowered

I unbolted it and removed it to insert new poly bush into it

To find there was already new poly bushes in it

( ah well anybody want a poly bush set for the front of the anti roll bar )

[:0]..[:0]..[:0]..[:0]..[:0]..[:0]

Returned it back on to the car along with the block

New longer bolts and all tightened up

Now after a test drive a massive difference to the car

Good job well done ...[;)]

I hope that's ok for you lot 

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If it's not broke don't fix it.

Henk · Postby **Henk** » 26 May 2009 22:33

But to renew the bushes you must remove the whole bar i think.

I,ve a set but do it when i'm fit new shocks and bearings and bushes.

Henk

1980 TR7 US Convertible
1978 Mini Clubman Estate

PeterTR7V8 · Postby **PeterTR7V8** » 26 May 2009 23:47

Cheers, Stevie. I've had anti-dive kits on my mind lately wondering if it was worth doing. Do you have a the dimensions of the metal block I can take to our local engineer?

I suspect some people end up cutting the bush to get them on without removing the bar. How much if at all, does this compromise the bush?

Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

V8Wedgehead · Postby **V8Wedgehead** » 26 May 2009 23:59

For the price of the kit which is about $50.00 USD going to a machine shop and having them do the very basic machining is worth it. Oh I did not mention shipping too! If this was to be done I would make provisions so the block when it is against the subframe recesses into the frame like the plate that goes under the original clamp. The cutting of the bushings has been done for almost 20 years now and never has been an issue.

Michael
1980 TR8 FHC/Works Rally Project

If it is broken then fix it....if it is not then make it faster!"

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 27 May 2009 05:40

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Henk

But to renew the bushes you must remove the whole bar i think.

I,ve a set but do it when i'm fit new shocks and bearings and bushes.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

As I had said No need to fit all the bushes as they were all brand new poly already fitted 

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by stevie_a


To find there was already new poly bushes in it

( ah well anybody want a poly bush set for the front of the anti roll bar )

[:0]..[:0]..[:0]..[:0]..[:0]..[:0]

 <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

--------------------------------------------------------------

If it's not broke don't fix it.

bmcecosse · Postby **bmcecosse** » 27 May 2009 08:55

I made my own blocks - easy to do - and used high tensile bolts. Are these bolts high tensile Stevie?? I found it made not a jot of difference to the 'dive' - but it sharpened up the 'turn-in' of the car very considerably!

Marko · Postby **Marko** » 27 May 2009 09:18

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by PeterTR7V8

Cheers, Stevie. I've had anti-dive kits on my mind lately wondering if it was worth doing. Do you have a the dimensions of the metal block I can take to our local engineer?

I suspect some people end up cutting the bush to get them on without removing the bar. How much if at all, does this compromise the bush?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

dont cut them , just clean up the dirt from the ARB ,and little liquid soap does wonders.

Underdog · Postby **Underdog** » 27 May 2009 14:14

I fitted the uprated, larger dia, frt bar from TSI. You could use a gallon of dish liquid and even Hulk Hogan would never slide them on.[:D] I slit the bush lenghtwise, down the center of the flat. Lots of silicone grease and they compressed right into place. Finally took the frt end shakes away.

I have that kit but never installed it. I read somewhere that it's not as effective on the TR8 with it's subframe spacers. Be interested to hear of the results on a TR8.

72 MGB BRG
80 TR8 Persian Aqua
If women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Odd · Postby **Odd** » 27 May 2009 15:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by PeterTR7V8
Do you have a the dimensions of the metal block I can take to our local engineer? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> If you do take this idea to an engineers place - see to it that they make them look like something
actually belonging there and not just a cheap simple aftermarket add-on!

And if you're fitting a heavier gauge bar: don't forget to have them mill out the diameter of the
hole in the positioning brackets and washers!

Here's some inspirational pictures of when I fitted Ted Schumachers heavier anti roll bar into my '8..:

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 27 May 2009 17:10

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bmcecosse

I made my own blocks - easy to do - and used high tensile bolts. Are these bolts high tensile Stevie?? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I did not use the bolts from the kit.I did use high tensile with nylon lock nuts 

I have had this response from a member of another forum

I would like your opinion please

I have never heard anybody suffering from any problems

Is this right enough or is it just not true 

Just one problem with using the longer screws through the spacer though; as you drop the bar, it must also be moved to the rear or it'll pull the lower arms to the front of the car and that will affect the tracking alignment and castor angles will be out. Best to use the original screws and bolt the clamps to the spacers, ISTR that Â¾" to the rear is the correct amount to offset the extra length required in the ARB itself.

What do you think [?]..[?]..[?]..[?]..[?]..[?]

If it's not broke don't fix it.

macmattom · Postby **macmattom** » 27 May 2009 17:27

Can anybody explain what the two clamp things are in the above picture and what is the implication of leaving them off? I have them but never bothered putting them on the ARB.

Cheers,

Mac

The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!

http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

tr7sprint1 · Postby **tr7sprint1** » 27 May 2009 17:33

To keep the ARB from lateral movement.

"GETTING SPEED OUT OF A LOW POWERED CAR IS OFTEN MORE REWARDING, THAN WITH TIRE-SMOKING BRUTES"

Beans · Postby **Beans** » 27 May 2009 19:39

Or you can stiffen up the ARB a bit by supporting it in the middle, thus preventing it from flexing under load.

Box will be mounted on spacers for a little extra anti-dive. Got the idea from the Mk1 and Mk2 Escort Brigade ...

<center>

1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC
http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</center>

bmcecosse · Postby **bmcecosse** » 27 May 2009 20:26

Stevie - my bar didn't move anywhere when I fitted the kit - can't see it moving the arms 'forwards' - why should it?! Although that would slightly increase castor - a good thing if it happened! And I had no problem fitting the new bolts into place - which suggests the bar was quite happy to sit there - not under any tension - which it would surely be if having to drag the lower arms forwards! I didn't check the tracking - but there was no steering abnormality - or feathering on the tyres. If I find myself with a spare half-hour (hard to imagine though - it's hard work being retired!) - i'll check the tracking and report back!

stevie_a · Postby **stevie_a** » 27 May 2009 20:44

Can I copy some of this text roy ?

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If it's not broke don't fix it.

Anonymous

Fitting an anti dive kit

Fitting an anti dive kit

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