tr7triumph.com

<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="blue">Well, over 2 years, quite a significant amount of money, many scraped knuckles and a few swear words along the way, I've finally got the engine back in the car, and it looks superb (even if I do say so myself!).







I am now slowly but (hopefully) surely plugging everything in and connecting all the pipes. Everything seems to be okay, but I'm sure I'll be back on-line soon asking which wire or which pipe goes where. Hopefully you guys will come up trumps again, you always have done so far.

My first questions are about the fluids: what type of engine oil and how much, gearbox oil and how much, engine anti-freeze and how much and what type of diff oil and how much would I need?

Any help gratefully received as always, but please don't just say 5 ltrs of something - where does it go!!

I will post a few more pictures as I go along, but if it's taken me over 2 years so far, don't hold your breath!!

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The pheonix rises from the ashes - just give it time!http://s733.photobucket.com/albums/ww338/macmattom/

You were busy today Mac, that engine was sat to one side when io saw it this morning, but it does look good.

When you have removed the impossible, the improbible how ever unlikely has to be the truth.

Looks fantastic. My wife's jewelry box doesn't sparkle as much as all that chrome.

The engine takes 4.5L of 20/50W oil. If the engine freshly rebuilt then some 30W running in oil might be advised. Just pour it in from the top.

The 5 speed box takes 1.5L of Hypoy 75 & he diff takes 1.1L of Hypoy 90. Typically you fill until the the oil reaches the lip of the filler hole on the side/back.

Get cracking.




Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

For these engines a good 20/50 mineral oil is normally recommended. However, IF the engine has been completely rebuilt with new seals etc it may be suitable for a modern semi or fully synthetic oil.

For the gearbox, the standard spec was Auto Transmission Fluid (ATF), to Ford Spec IIRC. However, again there are modern synthetic specialist gearbox oils which are frequently lauded in this forum. I have not tried these yet but I have not doubt experts such as Mildred will advise shortly (or try a search).

Antifreeze/coolant needs to be aluminium compatible, but I think they all are these days. A mixture of at least 50% is recommended to prevent corrosion in addition to freeze prevention.

I am sure you will receive a variety of views and responses!

Alan
Saab 9000 Stg 1
Saab 9000 2.3 FPT Auto
'81 TR7 DHC

Nice one Mac, i;ll have to pop round when you got 10 mins to have alook, you should be on the road very soon then my friend, good job well done mate



Steve
1979 BL Press Car Pre Production Prototype Inca Yellow DHC

If its a dry engine i.e newly rebuilt then dont forget to prime the pump before starting. Crank the engine over until you are sure that pressure is building and that the oil ways in the cam bearings are pushing up oil.

You also have to run new cam's in at 2500 rpm for 10-20 mins on startup as well - thats a very scary moment [:D]

Loving the engine bay bling [8D]

<b>2.0 Litre DHC Grinnall
Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)</b>

Good quality 20W/50 in the engine. Forget lighter more modern specs.

Motul gear oil in the box, ignore all the nonsense about ATF or whatever, if you're putting V8 torque through there's none better. It's expensive - so's a rebuild, but more so.

EP 90 in the diff, but it isn't that mission critical.

Cheers,

Alec

Is this the stuff you mean Alec?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTUL-GEAR-300-GE ... =72%3A1683

<b>2.0 Litre DHC Grinnall
Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)</b>

Looking good mate, looking forward to pulling mine apart but got to get another out of the way first, was playing engine cranes myself this weekend.

Hi Ruddy

Looks like a twin-cam MkI Escort.
No doubt it has two doors and will
finish up with a red stripe?

Looks very nice.... and white is the
new black!

Maxwell [:D]

Very nice!
After all the recent posts of lifting the engine / gearbox into the car from underneath, it's interesting to see them dropped in from above.

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

I've always raised the back end of the car up to lessen the angle needed on the hoist to drop a motor/gearbox in from the top.

Looking good Mac

looking forward to seeing another superbly restored fixed head back on the road.

With an engine looking like that i'm never gonna open my bonnet in public again.

Well done

[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry


John

Looking good Mac (but we won't agree on the chrome plating [;)]0

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by john</i>

...i'm never gonna open my bonnet in public again ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
John, I pressume you realise you're talking about a TR7.
They tend to break down in public [:p]


<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Maxwell</i>

Hi Ruddy

Looks like a twin-cam MkI Escort.
No doubt it has two doors and will
finish up with a red stripe?

Looks very nice.... and white is the
new black!

Maxwell [:D]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

always got to be a double blue stripe for me on a white Mk1 Maxwell[;)]

and iv'e got too say i might be leaving my bonnet closed with that one around as well John
good work on the bay[8D][8D]

It rides again..... and again wehey!!!!!!!