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My front R/H foglight was flashing instead of the front indicator, and not having the time to investigate it, I unplugged the foglight as a temporary measure (about 18 months ago)!

I took the car to a garage (a very good friend of mine is the owner) to retap the threads on the thermostat housing, so asked them to sort out the dodgy earth / connection while the car was there.

I was not happy with the work that his mechanics carried out on the housing (another story), but he resolved it so all was fine.

Checking the lights last night I noticed the front fogs not working at all, so I investigated closer. To say that I was annoyed with what I found would be an understatement.

Here is a picture of what I found at the R/H light. Firstly is a new earth. Well ok, I can live with that. Then there is a block connector where, if I remember correctly, there was a bullet connector, and the feed wire has been cut next to this block connector and crimp on spades fitted (why not just wire into the block connector?) and a new, blue wire disappearing across the top of the spoiler. The cut wire from the main block connector is just left hanging.



So I followed this blue wire and I am sure you can all guess that it went to the L/H foglight. Would you like to see the professional wiring? Ok then.



I think the moral of this story is do it yourself if you can. So called professionals can be worse than useless.


1980 persian aqua DHC

I love the sight of Scotchlocks in the morning!

Haha must have been bodgit and scarper limited!

<b>2.0 Litre DHC Grinnall
Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)</b>

That is so annoying and a friend of yours as well!! Trouble is some grease monkeys don't realy want the job on classics.Anything older than 3 yrs that you can't plug a lap top into is too much like proper work.Like you say DIY is best if you can.Hope you got a refund [:(]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by andyf</i>


I think the moral of this story is do it yourself if you can. So called professionals can be worse than useless.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I have always had to redo work that a garage has worked on. The exeption is work I had carried out on the Integra at the Acura dealer I bought it from. (very expensive). I do all my own work for years now, it may take me a weekend, a week or whatever but I do it right and take the time to clean parts etc. when they are out. Mechanics can't do that quality of work as they have a set time to do the job and the labour rates are high so they do the job in the quickest way possible not the best way.




TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

Hi,
At the moment there is a huge push to license mechanics so they have to have a minimum measure of compitance, its called ATA approved but to be honest a few lads at work have it and its a waste of time [:0] sorry to say would'nt let them work on my bicycle let alone my car!!! I am affraid as much as 'the trade' say its not true it, not the quality of work you do its the quantity, would love to get out of the 'main dealer ' net work and work somewhere your skills are reconised and not how fast you are. I spend half the day putting right there feck ups and the other half doing the stuff they just are not capable off BUT they can do a clutch in an hour so guess who the hero is [:(!][:(!] RANT OVER [;)]
AND SCOTCHLOCKS are the work of Satan himself [}:)]
Cheers and goodnight John [;)]

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)

1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!

Just before I pranged my car I'd had it in for a warrant (MOT) & to replace the front springs. The panelbeater said when he took the strut off he found half the nuts on the suspension were loose & lock wires had been cut & not replaced. Very embarrassing to be told my nuts are loose.


Never say die. At least not while you're still breathing.

We seem to be lucky in Oz. I am happy with all the
mechanical/electrical work I have had done on my cars. I have been
slightly less happy woth some of the paint/panel work, but it's not
bad work

Is seems all our cowboys have got into the computer/TV & building
industries.

Perhaps some have gone into the defence force. My son, an emgineer
in the navy, did tell me some time back, that there was only one
other bloke, on the ship he was on at the time, that he would trust
to change the oil in his car. The real problem, this bloke was a
cook. A cook into hot rods sure, but not one of the engineers.

Hasbeen

I had a bit of trouble with my van for work would not start in the morning if it had been raining Got the RAA out guy said it was something to do with the LPG so it got towed to a LPG guy he could not find anything wrong with the LPG said it was the coil pack so replaced that got it back next day same again would not start RAA out again said it was the ht leads or distributor cap towed to the garage new cap and rotor fitted, Dry for a few days then rain and would not start phoned the garage they came out this time said it was the battery so new battery couple of days later same again got the RAA out again this time it was an english guy told him the saga he said you got a hair dryer got one for him he put it on the distributor cap and van started right away.Its ok in summer not a problem but now we are going into winter it done it again once last week, So out came the hair dryer and a spray of WD40 every couple of weeks and it starts fine.So a couple of RAA guys and a coulpe of garages still to find the problem.

Scotchlocks are truly a curse! A previous owner of my FHC was a big fan of the horrible things and used them throughout the car. A later owner removed most of them or it could be that the guy that installed them changed his mind, but regardless they left little nicks in the insulation where they were removed. Of course this weakened the wire and allowed moisture in. I have spent the last two years discovering these flaws, sometimes at the worst times. The LT lead to the distributor had evidence of eight scotchlocks on it! me I would find and repair one only to find another an inch or so farther up the wire. It was maddening![:(!]
Gradually things are improving for me electrically, but I must say...Please don't use bloody scotchlocks!

Rant over...Thanks!

Rich

1975 TR7 ACL764U

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Rich in Vancouver</i>

Scotchlocks are truly a curse!............. ...Please don't use bloody scotchlocks!<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My DHC was my everyday car and parked out in the street in the mid to late 80's. I had an alarm and immobiliser fitted which worked well but eventually failed. I left all their Scotchlocks in place when I removed it otherwise there would have been lots of exposed wiring nicks.

My pet hate is those crimped connectors. They're fine for a temporary repair but eventually with time and vibration the connection will invisibly pull apart from underneath the insulation material. All quick and handy for these electrical accessory guys but there's no substitute for a soldered connector, unless there's something better out there........

Adam



TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & PolyBushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by busheytrader</i>
[br ...there's no substitute for a soldered connector, unless there's something better out there...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Or try these ...





Available in different versions.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

I have never found a tool that neatly crimped those terminal block connections so I have always ended up soldering the wires on to the pins!

As a profesional mechanic - ex main dealer master tech too, I have always found it frustraiting having to undo the damage of other garages/ mechanics and having to work around the systems in place enforced by the manifacturer, who in their right mind would only check their rear shoes every 56,000 miles. The problem is there are too few mechanics that give a damn abouth the customer, and those that do fight a loosing batle against the management and the manifacturer which hurts them in their pocket. Now I work as a private workshop without time or financial constraints and I am paid to do the job properly. I enjoy this much more and even better I am paid significantly more to do it.

I am also concerned by the bare metal exposed around the earth!

Get a lifestyle
Get a TR7!

www.ttr7.co.uk

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by john mc nulty</i>

I had a bit of trouble with my van for work would not start in the morning if it had been raining Got the RAA out guy said it was something to do with the LPG so it got towed to a LPG guy he could not find anything wrong with the LPG said it was the coil pack so replaced that got it back next day same again would not start RAA out again said it was the ht leads or distributor cap towed to the garage new cap and rotor fitted, Dry for a few days then rain and would not start phoned the garage they came out this time said it was the battery so new battery couple of days later same again got the RAA out again this time it was an english guy told him the saga he said you got a hair dryer got one for him he put it on the distributor cap and van started right away.Its ok in summer not a problem but now we are going into winter it done it again once last week, So out came the hair dryer and a spray of WD40 every couple of weeks and it starts fine.So a couple of RAA guys and a coulpe of garages still to find the problem.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Glad to see it took a Pom to sort out and cure the problem, ooohhh yessss [}:)][:D]
Regards Moe

Gee I'm glad to hear that John.

Not that you've been having trouble, but that it's been raining in
Adelaide.

They've been telling us we have to let all our rain run down the
Darling, because it hasn't rained in years down there, & you need
our water so you can have a drink, & a shower.

Sorry mate, I couldn't resist. They, [the greens, & the Murray
Darling commission, must be grant time] have been
hammering the media up here about what red necks we are, wanting to
use some of our water to earn a living, rather than let it all run
down the Darling, to fill a nice artificial fresh water sky lake
down your way.

Hasbeen