tr7triumph.com

I've never failed to get the right answer yet from you guys so here goes another; I have currently stripped out the interior of my wedge to refit the cabin . This includes swapping the dashboard over from grey to black - for those who have done a dashboard removal; is it significantly easier to remove it with the rest of the interior stripped out, or does it not make much difference (mine's a DHC if that helps)

I did mine with seats, carpet, centre console removed as I striped the interior to remove the heater for foam replacement. As it was a winter project to prepare it for it's first Canadian registration I cleaned all contacts etc. (everything I could get my hands on) while I had it all apart. I don't know about a minimalist approach. Write down each step as there are two screws to part of top of dash that have to be tightened before you put dash back in. I forgot those and couldn't do it after but I wasn't about to take dash out again to put them in. No
sqeaks and everything seems OK without them so it'll keep till next time the dash has to come out. It's always nicer to work when you have more room to do things so that's the way I tend to roll.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

YAP IT HAS TO COME OUT
1)take all the screws out
2)take the bottom part of the dash out where the air knobs and radio are located.
3)you can take the steering wheel out if you wish ?but don't need to .
4)take the instrument panel out and don't for get to buy a wood kit form RJS before you put it back in
( He makes them look better than the old Jags)Tell him I sent you .
5)take the center switches out

To pull the unit out??

6) pull it forward a bit and then towards the co-pilots . where ever that may be , right or left

7) make sure you have all the door wide open and the window down if it is a conv.
it would not be bad if you where in a field all alone with your other half.
That way it should come out really easy.
IF it is stuck you forgot a screw .
It should slide right out.
EASYLYYYYYY. no hard pulls or push .
make sure you take pics of the wires before you keep going on just to make sure you put everything back where it belongs . I DID NOT,GUESS WHAT happened

Good Luck we are here to help . Keep in touch and tell us how you are doing.
Pics would be nice to
Have Fun Be Safe

Hi Swifty,

I have had the dash board out of my 8 several times now, not difficult.
Whilst you have the oppertunity its worth having a look at the electrics, such as the fuse board - take a look to see that all of the connections are tight everywhere and have a good clean up.

One last thing when you put the dash back remember not to do the screws up too tight, especially on the top panel as this has a nasty habbit of breaking of the fixing tags.

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC California car that never crossed the pond, started life as KDU 315V.
1962 Triumph Courier

yeh dash boards easy to get out fiddly to get back in.

if you can remove the indicator switches etc it really is simple. main thing to do is make sure you put all the screws back in and rubber washers on all the screws and bolts it help to stop the squeeks.



[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry


John

Thanks Gents, as ever, a priceless source of info

I have had one out and am getting ready to do a second soon. Not a tough job. I would recommend you be real careful when removing and don't twist it to much because there are some places it is not to thick and prone to break or crack, such as the vertical posts around the vents.

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by swifty</i>

... for those who have done a dashboard removal...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Have a look [url="http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/2008/03/changing-heater-day-1.html"]<u><b><font size="3"><font color="red">here</font id="red"></font id="size3"></b></u>[/url], gives you an indication of the work involved ...

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

Thanks gents for the tips - I removed the old grey dash today and have installed the nice shiny black one - the photograph idea is excellent advice (thank god for digital cameras, eh?) Just one query - When I took the instrument panel cover off, most of the wiring loom was running between the instrument panel cover and the dashboard assembly itself. Is this standard or something the previous owner may have done? There is space to run it under the dashboard so that they sit on top of the heater - but I'm thinking maybe they were like they were just in case they get too hot on the top of the heater. Any ideas? Will I need to replace it as it was, or can they go under the dash assembly and sit on the heater (a bit easier!)

This is the original routing ...



<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

Hi Swifty,

Did you just fancy a colour change or was the original dash damaged?

I've seen them painted blue (S&S demonstrator),white, beige and brown.

Adam

TR7 V8 DHC Jaguar Solent Blue. 9.35cr Range Rover V8, Holley 390cfm, JWR Dual Port, 214 Cam, Lumention, Tubular Manifolds, Single Pipe Exh, 3.08 Rear, 200lb Spax & Solid Bushes, Anti- Dive, Granada Vented Discs & Calipers, Braided Hoses, Green Stuff, 4 Speed Rear Cylinders, Uprated Master Cylinder & Servo, AT 5 Spokes and Cruise Lights. No Door Stickers. Mine since July 1986, V8 from 1991

Thanks for the going to the effort of posting the photo Beans.However it's just not quite far enough over!Do you have one of the bit on the extreme right of the picture with the oval hole for the speaker - or do you remember if the loom went over the top so that it sits between the instrument panel cover and the dash assembly, or between the heater assembly and the dash ?

Just fancied a colour change really and the black dash came up for peanuts - Also the grey one was very tired and the car is green with a blue interior, which I felt clashed - so it will now be green with a black interior

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by swifty</i>

...However it's just not quite far enough over!Do you have one of the bit on the extreme right of the picture with the oval hole ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
This good enough [;)]



B.t.w. the black dash in the first picture is from 't Kreng (my 1981 FHC) so it was grey originaly. Painted it black using Vinylcote. Still looks pretty good after more then 12 years.

<center>
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (now completely dismantled)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

Outstanding, thank you, Beans - on the top of the dash it is then!

You look at the hole cut in the middle of the dash & the removable grill that goes over it & you expect that to be for a speaker until you find it is choked full of loom.

Just one of those quirks I guess.

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