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Last summer when I got the TR (in pretty bad need of TLC) we took off the wheels, re-sprayed 'em, got the alloys "skimmed" then had to pay to get the nuts off again as they were too tight. Is there some kind of washer that can be put in place to make it easier to remove the nuts & clean them? Have heard you can soak the nuts in cola to get rid of the rust then coat 'em in vaseline as a protection? Any ideas? The car has only been with me a few months and they're rusting up already. Deb x

1980 Premium TR7-1 of 400 made
.

I use Metalready to get rid of rust. (POR-15 product.) Although they say you shouldn't I put some anti seize grease on the studs then wipe it off with paper towel. This leaves a very thin coat, enough to prevent rusting. I rub some on the washers and nuts as well. The stuff just sticks really well and will last for a while if you don't do too much wet weather driving. Then tighten to 88 foot pounds of torque with torque wrench. (Don't use a shops air gun as air pressure and settings can vary widely.) Recheck after 50 to 100 miles for next couple of times if possible.(for alloys.) I believe they don't want lubrication because that changes torque requirements plus alloys have the problem of powdering where they meet the drum which then drops out and changes the torque settings that's why it should be checked for a few times after a tire has been removed. The price we pay for such good looking wheels.[:)]


TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

That's a bit rude Deb.

If someone told me my nuts were rusty, I'd be quite offended.
Besides, I gave up skinny dipping years ago, so how the hell would
they know.

Hasbeen

Hi Debs any time ive come across nuts thats were rusty on my car, ive let them soak in cola ( always keep a spare bottle in the garage for such puposes), and they have come up a treat, there are all kinds of little tricks like that to save one money.



Steve
1979 Pre Production Prototype Inca Yellow DHC

A while ago there were some sets of stainless steel nuts being sold, but I don't know if they are still available. You may not want to spend that kind of money anyway. The cola idea sounds a good cheap alternative!

Use a little copper grease on the stud threads to prevent the nuts seizing. Don't put extra washers behind the nuts. Remember the standard alloy wheels are hubcentric - this means that the hub which protrudes from your car mates with the equivalent sized hole at the back of your wheel, the hub is also load bearing. All that the studs or bolts do is hold the wheel onto the hub. I always just tighten the bolts by hand before using a torque wrench for the final turns, like FI Spyder suggests. If you do this then you should not have a problem getting them off again.



Tony

<font size="1">1981 2L FHC Cavalry Blue
1980 3.5L V8 DHC Jaguar Regency Red - sadly sold!</font id="size1">

The stainless ones Tony writes about are/were gorgeous! They will survive the expected lifespan of most Wedges
- so in that perspective they weren't at all expensive! I'd recommend them to any 'roulette'-wheel owner!

If you can find them these days I would recommend the stainless steel nut option. I have a set that I bought second hand last year which I think came from S & S (another place that I am contributing to the pension fund).My original nuts were peeling and looked awfull!

Cheers
Ian

Ian Freeman
1979 TR8 DHC California car that never crossed the pond, started life as KDU 315V.
1962 Triumph Courier

Actually i use either motor-oil, or a product called Never-Seize. Lately been oil tho. very light coating, torque nuts to proper spec's, rechek tourque after 300 to 500miles of driving.

Johnny

Thanks guys...loads of info there(sorry if I made you blush Hasbeen, but it did get your attention [:I]Now I wonder if the brand of cola will make a difference...I feel a Pepsi Challenge coming on....Deb x

1980 Premium TR7-1 of 400 made
.

Only Coke will do, remember its the real thing.

The stainless nuts are superb, not expensive at £80, Terry even made me a special set for the Wolfrace wheels on the Coca Cola car.
www.triumphtr.co.uk
TR8 FHC
TR7 Sprint
TR7V8 rally car

Thanks for the cola tip, guys. I used it this morning on a set of significantly corroded clamps on a battery charger. They are now looking pretty good, and I'm sure will work much more efficiently.

Why the battery charger you ask? Yes, the battery for the car is as dead as it can be.[:(] Discovered that yesterday after I put it in the car to start it and take it for a drive...no juice, no drive and a snowstorm today...[:(!]

Peri

The "cola tip" originally came from "Kim and Aggie" from "how clean is your house"...been using it on bikes for ages..Deb x

1980 Premium TR7-1 of 400 made
.

P.S. Chris, the Coca Cola car is stunning..can't wait to see it in the "flesh"..Deb x

1980 Premium TR7-1 of 400 made
.

And to think we drink that crap!Surely you all seen the dipping of an
old 2 pence in that stuff?Strips the thing clean in no time!Perhaps
Chris stripped the paint of his cola car with said industrial polutant!?

See ya. Paul

But it gets ya nuts clean...[:)] and other things so I'm told..Deb x

1980 Premium TR7-1 of 400 made
.