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novice woman needs advice

The all purpose forum for any TR7/8 related topics.
nofinchance
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novice woman needs advice

Postby nofinchance » 13 Jan 2009 20:24

[:I] after many happy years I have sold my capri 3.0.Truth be told I wanted a TR7 from the start but was talked out of it with all sorts of horror stories from men with beards and real ale!.Life goes on none of us are getting younger and I want my fix of TR ness[;)].Trouble is I have no idea about them apart from 'that looks nice' I have around £2000 to spend and prefer the fixed head.So where do I start and how do I spot a junker from a jem? Thanx Steph x

tr7jim
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Postby tr7jim » 13 Jan 2009 21:07

Steph,

Your location would be a start so if poss a local TR7 nut can help. Its worth looking on the TR Register and TR Drivers web site for some ideas.

If you want I can send you some old TR Drivers mag, just send me email with address detail and I will do the rest.

Daniel and Chris on this site, I think have a TR7 fhc's for sale, if nothing more would be a good starting point.

Hope this helps

Jim

windy one
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Postby windy one » 13 Jan 2009 21:08

"Velcome!"

This is a great place to start, wise choice. Im sure just by asking around here, you may be able to find yourself a good-Wedge. Alotta great folk's here [:)]

Some of your answer depends on how comfortable with a wrench. Can/do you make your own repairs, or usually have a service man make repairs?

I (and let me add, I live in the USA) have owned quite a few Wedges, both 7's & 8's. Once I sorted thru all the mistakes the PREVIOUS owners made (i.e;botched repairs) can honestly say all the cars Ive owned were reliable and easy/fun to work on. The main thing being 'learning' how to work on/repair these car's. Dont be afraid to ask questions, there are many peep's here that have gone to hell-o & back with thier wedges.

My major issues, or what I tend to look for first before buying is...rust in the body (&/or extensive body repair), and electrical-work. I am currently stripping a rusted out TR7 to use as a parts car for another 7 I purchased. Removing the dash and its components from the rusted 7 I found...if I tried to turn the rusted out 7 into a driver, I woulda had to make ALOT of electrical repairs!! The previous owner really did some baaaad work on the wiring.

Johnny

Shauniedawn
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Postby Shauniedawn » 13 Jan 2009 21:15

Now how can we ignore that request! LOL.

I'm sure someone near to you would be more than happy to show you theirs and point out a few of the key things to look out for with a 7.

Good luck.

Shaun[:)]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12691409@N08/

Beans
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Postby Beans » 13 Jan 2009 21:25

Welcome and good luck with the search.
At least I am to far away to show you my TR7.

I am in the process of stripping a fairly good DHC at the moment.
Check my weblog, this will give you a fairly good impression of how the important bits of a TR7 body should (or shouldn't) look.

<center>Image
<font color="blue"><i>1981 TR7 FHC Sprint (better known as 't Kreng)
1981 TR7 DHC (not very well known yet, but back on the road)
Also a 1980 TR7 DHC, 1980 TR7 DHC FI, 1981 TR7 FHC</font id="blue">
<font color="red">http://tr7beans.blogspot.com/</i></font id="red"></center>

john 215
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Postby john 215 » 13 Jan 2009 21:42

Hi Steph,
WELCOME TO THE BEST TR7 / 8 FORUM IN THE WORLD EVER!
As with most cars of this age rust is your biggest problem, mechanical problems can be put right (at a cost[:(] ) but once the metal cancer takes hold then you easy end up chasing it around the car! If you unsure what you are looking at then take someone with you who does, must be someone in your area [?]. Dont discount buying from people like Robsport or S and S Prep, both know 'our' cars inside out, can save yourself a fortune by buying from then as they will not sell you a dog without telling you at least!!!

http://www.ss-preparations.co.uk/

http://www.robsport.co.uk/

Good luck with your search, any help you know wheere to find us.
Cheers John

LIVE LIFE A QUARTER OF A MILE AT A TIME!
1979 3.5 FHC(STATUS PENDING!!)
Image
1982 2.0 DHC NOW A 4.6,ON THE ROAD NOW KICKING AR5E !!!!
Read My Blog http://www.waringstowntr7s.co.uk/blogs/ ... hp/John215

Wayne S
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Postby Wayne S » 13 Jan 2009 22:37

Hi Steph, let us know where you are based and we can put you in touch with your local expert [:D]

There's not much to worry about with wedges and £2k should buy you a very nice fixed head (FHC). Things to watch for are mostly rust and body related:

<b>Check turrets in engine bay</b> - costly to repair so make sure they are sound and rust free.

<b>Sills,</b> check they are solid and structural, not crumbling or made up of cover panels.

<b>Rear trailing arm mounts </b> should be solid and treated where they meet the rear of the floor - major corrosion problem area and costly if it breaks in a big way.

<b>Arches </b> - check for signs of filler, unevenness and rust bubbles - they may extend further than they let on.

<b>Floorpans</b> - pull up the carpets and check the inner seams with the sill and the rear floor behind the seats. Often badly repaired.

<b>Check for clean fuel</b> in the fuel filter and if possible check the tank for leaks - I ' ve just had mine pin-hole on the V8 and its a real pain of a job. I did it over Xmas [8D]

On the 2 litre the <b>timing chains </b> give out so check for sounds of an audible rattle coming from the front of the engine. Not a major issue but needs fixing so use it to barter the asking price if body is sound.

<b>Waterpump </b> - again not too bad to do, but check how long its been a problem as coolant shortage is an issue with the slant 4 engine. The tell tale sign is to look under the front carb at the slot in the engine block - if there is a dribble of coolant then its a leaky pump and is in need of urgent attention.

<b>Head gaskets </b> - the TR7 2 litre has an alloy head on a cast iron block which means they contract with heat at different rates due to the different properties in the metal. Take the car for a long run, say 20 mins, pull over and let it idle. Watch the temp on the run and when stationary - there should be no spikes in the reading and between 1/4 and 1/2 is normal temp on the gauge. Check also the filler for salad cream which indicates coolant/water/oil mix i.e blown gasket. The cylinder heads are awful jobs to remove.

<b>Check coolant,</b> should be topped up to the level and nicely concentrated. Id stay clear of cars that have brown in the header tanks or have been run on just water for a while as they are likely to have clogged waterways.

<b>Heater Matrix,</b> check for puddles or drips of coolant running into the passenger footwell from under the dash, usually down the transmission tunnel indicating a leaky heater matrix. The dash has to come out to fix this.

<b>Out on the road,</b> just listen for whiny diffs and stiff gearchanges. Dont be worried if its baulky into second when cold - just aslong as its fine when warm, common endearing quirk. Also a slight wheel wobble around 50 - 60 mph is a known fault you may come across.

There may be more things specific to fixed heads but im a convertible man so not overly familiar.

Nice upgrades to look for include upgraded brakes, roller bearings in front struts, electric fans and halogen head lamps.

If you want similar performance to the Capri though, you may want to be looking at a V8 [:D]

Hope that helps [:D]







<b>FOR SALE!!!!Purple 2.0 Litre DHC Grinnall</b>
Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)
Image

Hasbeen
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Postby Hasbeen » 14 Jan 2009 01:11

Hi Steph, & welcome from Oz.

Wayne's told you what to look for, if you have the experience to
know what you are seeing.

However I think John 215 has the best advice, if you are not a
mechanical buff.

The few top specialists have too much to loose to be interested in
duding you. A car from them is likely to cost you a few hundred more
in up front purchase price, but will probably save you many hundreds
more in repairs in a years ownership.

At least go & have a look at their offerings, so you have a solid
basis to compare others to.

Hasbeen

PeterTR7V8
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Postby PeterTR7V8 » 14 Jan 2009 01:20

Steph, the V8 powered ones are more fun & the Rover engine is easier to replace should you ever get addicted to track days.

I'm not biased though.

************************************************************************
To do list:
Upholstery/Motor/Gearbox/Suspension/Brakes/Carb/Tyres../Gearbox/Paint/Cam+Motor
Done......./done./done....../done......../done../done/done/redone.../done/under way
Blog: http://www.forum.triumphtr7.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8548 Image

jclay (RIP 2018)
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Postby jclay (RIP 2018) » 14 Jan 2009 02:24

Steph,

There is a TR7 buying guide on my Technical Stuff site. Just click the link below.

jclay

[url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html"]My Triumph Site[/url], [url="http://web.mac.com/jclaythompson/iWeb/Technical/Intro.html"]Technical Stuff[/url], [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/53/wo/HJMTK8gsojtwKleP.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]Download Page[/url]

FI Spyder
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Postby FI Spyder » 14 Jan 2009 03:19

What Wayne said. Good info on jclay's link (as always). Many problems of the electrical variety are caused by corroded/bad electrical connections. Once diagnosed, easily fixed by cleaning connections (metal cleaner, contact cleaner, etc.) putting a little dielectric grease on to prevent reocurrance and reconnecting.

While a V8's power can be fun, the 4 banger is also in it's own way plus much less pain at the gas pump unless you're driving in Venezuela, Dubai, USA or other locations with artificially low gas prices.[:)]

$4,000 bucks should get you a really nice coupe. Take your time and look at a few or sure as shootin' a really good deal will represent itself soon after you buy.



TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra
Image

Cobber
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Postby Cobber » 14 Jan 2009 05:04

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Century Gothic, Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by FI Spyder</i>


<font size="2"><font face="Comic Sans MS">
While a V8's power can be fun, the 4 banger is also in it's own way plus much less pain at the gas pump unless you're driving in Venezuela, Dubai, USA or other locations with artificially low gas prices.[:)]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That should read as: Unless your driving in Venezuela, Durbi, USA or other locations where the government doesn't make motorists pay artificially high petrol (gas) prices because they treat the motorist as a cash cow!</font id="Comic Sans MS"></font id="size2">

80'Triumph TR7, , 73'Land Rover (Ford 351. V8),
'89 Ford Fairlane
85'Alfa 90, 69'Ford F250.
76' Ford F100
I sold the '61 International AA120 to a mate.. he hasn't paid for it yet!
Sold the Jag XJ12 too

tr7inc
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Postby tr7inc » 14 Jan 2009 06:44

Hi Steph, welcome to our great site here, have you had any luck in finding what you are looking for yet?, The TR club is a great place to look,Id also give S+S & Robsport a bell these guys know all there is to know about these cars, and will give you good honest advice,a fixed head model is usually a little cheaper than the drophead, but then again it depends on the engine and spec etc.

Good luck and do let us know you spot something you like.

Image

Steve
1979 Pre Production Prototype Inca Yellow DHC

john
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Postby john » 14 Jan 2009 08:07

Welcome Steph

i would say the best place to pick up a good wedge is through one of the clubs, also robsport and S & S are good outlets.

I'm sure Robsport have a good one in stock at the moment so look them up and it costs nothing to talk to them.

http://www.robsport.co.uk/carsforsale.aspx?TypeId=2

[8 whole cylinders worth of punch to ram the world through the windshield and out the rear view mirror. Car & Driver]
1981 Grinnall TR7 v8
1981 Black FHC
1979 & 1980 Black Premium FHC(laid to rest) Sorry :-(
Image

John

Wayne S
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Postby Wayne S » 14 Jan 2009 08:08

Useful guides:

TR Register Guide:
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/downloads/ ... Beware.pdf

Also have a good read http://www.triumphtr7.com in particular:
http://www.triumphtr7.com/documents/tr7 ... yguide.asp

But good advice if your not at home crawling over cars is definately to get a local enthusiast to come with you. [8D]




<b>FOR SALE!!!!Purple 2.0 Litre DHC Grinnall</b>
Red 4.0 Litre V8 DHC Grinnall (with huuuuuge arches...!)
Image

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