Wiring problems part II

[TR7Aaron]

It appears that the fuse I've been having problems with controls the door buzzer, horn, and emergency flashers (maybe other things too that I don't know about yet). After messing with it for about an hour, here's what I've found out...
The heater works great in this car. The blower, not so much... (not involved with this problem but I thought I'd throw that out there).
My headlight control stalk flops around and doesn't have any detents front or rear. The turn signal detents seem to work OK.
With the headlights on, I can push the headlight stalk all the way forward or pull it all the way back and the headlights go to high beam but I have to hold the stalk in position since it won't stay by itself.
With the fuse in, the headlights will stay lit (but do not rise up) until I push the headlight stalk forward, then they shut off. If I jiggle the stalk, they will flicker. Does this fuse also control the headlight highbeams and the stalk is faulty? Any ideas?
Also, I thought the taillights on this car seemed kinda dim, so I pulled out the bulbs and they are these small round bulbs. I swapped in some larger 1156 bulbs and they are MUCH brighter. Any harm in doing this? I don't want to fry some wiring due to increased electrical load. I also noticed that Lucas used steel connectors on the taillight sockets - mine had some rust on them. I think this sort of thing contributes to the electrical problems Lucas is known for.
Does anyone have a chart for American bulbs for these cars? The Haynes manual (British version apparantly) I'm using only lists wattages.
I'm sure this is all old news to you TR7 veterens, but this is new to me. Sorry to ramble on...
Aaron




Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.

[jclay (RIP 2018)]

Someone has pulled the headlight stalk too hard toward the steering wheel and broken off the little piece of black plastic that holds the stalk in different positions. The reason your headlights are coming on without moving is because there is a contact that will flash the high beams (US Model) by pulling the stalk towards the steering wheel.

On the other versions (UK and Europe), pulling the stalk will RAISE and flash the high beams. Without the plastic piece, the contacts to flash the high beams is making contact and causing the high beams to stay on. I finally had to cut off one of the contacts when mine broke. Order a new head light , indicator, horn switch assembly.

Heater motor: They are old! They are all pulling too much current now. It is a pain to get to them, but that is what you will have to do to pull them out and replace.

The bulb you put in will work great in the rear lights. Use some dielectric grease on the bulb contacts. Do not put bigger bulbs in the instrument pod as they will melt the green covers over the illumination lights. Get the green LED lights for that.

Did you download the TR7 manual that I gave you the link for the other day?

[FI Spyder]

Had the same problem of floppy stalk. Replaced the assembly. You will have to pull the heater were you can maybe oil the heater bearings? Never did that as the blower seems to work fine but it will give you a chance to replace foam on heater, lube all moving points on heater and clean all electrical connections/switches under dash includung instrument panel, I did that. While you got it all apart may as well clean everything you can get at so you don't have to go in there again and eleminate a whole bunch of possible future issues. A good winter project to get it ready for spring.

I've used a higher wattage bulb in back (one side) as the lower wattage bulb is no longer available at local auto parts store. No issues.

TR7 Spider - 1978 Spifire - 1976 Spitfire - 1988 Tercel 4X4 - Kali on Integra - 1991 Integra

[bmcecosse]

In UK max tail-light wattage is 5 watts, although I know some use 10 watt. They can be made brighter by fitting a higly reflective backing into the lamp unit - behind the bulb. I believe halogen lamps are also available - although I don't know where! Risk with using higher watt filament bulbs is that you may melt the plastic!

[TR7Aaron]

I had a chance to mess with my car before guests arrive and the temps are pretty mild, so I swapped the steering wheel stalk assemblies from the 1980 to the 1976. Both sides are on one assembly but it looks like they could be removed seperatly if needed.
It really couldn't have been much easier.

Pull the steering wheel, remove the plastic covers on the top & bottom, unplug two wire harness connectors, loosen a steering shaft plastic strap screw, slide it off the steering shaft. Install on the other car. Total time: maybe 1/2 hour. You don't even need a steering wheel puller - I just muscled mine off (make sure you leave the hub nut threaded a few threads so that it stops the wheel from flying off and removing some teeth).

It seems to have solved my lighting problems!

What's kinda odd though: the 1980 TR7 I have is a rust bucket but the electrical parts all seem to be in much better condition than the 1976, which has very little rust (hardly any at all). Go figure.

As soon as I get some non-dry rotted tires on this car, I think it will pass state inspection, then the real fun begins (at least I hope so!).

Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.