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Hi all,
I tinkered with my '76 this morning - the goal was to get the headlights to pop up and work, horn to work, and gas gauge to work.
I messed with the headlight switch a little and the passenger side popped up, Drivers side will light up but will not rise. I have a Haynes manual that came with the car but it's dirty and many of the pages are stuck together because of past moisture, so it's use is limited.
Are the visible terminal tabs in the headlight switch supposed to be even with each other or is one supposed to be in front of the other?
Here's the wiring under the driver's side (non-rising) side...


The loose wire happened while moving them around. I jumpered it but the headlight still does not rise. Which wire should I jumper with 12v to test the headlight motor? BTW, I tried turning the manual knob underneath and the headlight still doesn't rise.
To fix the horn, the first thing I checked was the fuses and one was missing. I replaced it and the horn worked fine but the headlights also came on (neither rose up) and the only way to turn them off was to remove the fuse again - I'm guessing that's why it was removed by the previous owner. Any ideas on this? Here's a picture of the fuse box, the horn fuse is second from the top.

I didn't even start on fixing the gas gauge.

Any thoughts on the headlights and horn fuse?
Thanks in advance.
Aaron

Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.

Aaron,
I would start by servicing & lubricating the headlight mechanism. If it doesn't rise manually when you turn the knob it's probably seized. The wiring could be correct. Once you get it moving OK then you can check the electrics.

Andy
1981 UK SPEC TR8

if you decide to take out the units don't be tempted to bench test them with a spare battery unless your fingers are well of the way
they don't call me Garry 3 fingers for nothing (only joking) but if they do get in the way make sure your not wearing a clean white T shirt............[:D]

It rides again.....

Well, it turned out to be the actuator motor. Good thing I bought that rusted out junkpile 1980 TR7 because it just donated it's first of many (I assume) parts. If you haven't R&R'd one, it's pretty easy.
1. Manually raise the light all the way up. There's a bracket that clicks in under the assembly to hold it if you raise it just a tad further using your hand. I guess it's some sort of locking mechanism in case the motors fail - you can lock them in the upright position.
2. Disconnect the 3 wired connectors.
3. Disconnect the actuator arm - one e-clip and washer (actually, I did this step first since the knob wouldn't raise the assembly).
4. Remove 3 small bolts that hold the motor in place.
5. Wiggle the motor and it's armature out through the bottom.

When re-installing, you may have to adjust the length of the actuator arm (it's designed like a double ended turnbuckle) so that it slips on to the motor crank arm and doesn't bind.

Notes: the spring that helps the motor raise the assembly is fairly weak. I expected the assembly to pop up like a mouse trap when I took off the actuator arm, but it just gently swings up.
The actuator motor is very similar to a windshield wiper motor and as was mentioned earlier, is very powerful - it would smash your fingers pretty good if they got caught in the mechanism.
If you don't have to repair and solder in new wiring like I did, you should be able to get this done in under an hour.

Thanks for the responses!
Aaron

Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.

Well done Aaron, it's a job many struggle with.

Did you manage to fix the horn while you were at it, or is that fuse
still a second light switch?

Hasbeen

No, I didn't get a chance to check if the fuse is still causing problems. Sure would be nice if fixing the broken wire(s) solved more than one problem...

Aaron

Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.

The horn and the head light 'flasher' are probably linked through the same fuse - so maybe the 'flash' switch or it's relay are stuck ON. Well done fixing that headlight assembly - but what was actually wrong with it ?

The temps have dropped around here but I still took some time to work on my 7. The fuse still causes the headlights to come on and I discovered that it's also the fuse for the door buzzer (which works when the fuse is in). I'm kinda stumped on this one. This car is low mileage and hasn't been hacked up. Hack jobs are where I usually look for mis-connected wires, etc. I checked the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual but really can't see where this fuse could cause the headlights to illuminate. I also discovered that after the engine is warm, getting it restarted can be a waiting game as all I get is clicking (from inside the glove box) until the engine cools a bit, then it fires right up. Reminds me of the old Pontiac I also have that doesn't want to start when it's hot. Regarding the fuse and lights situation: any ideas, anyone?
Thanks,
Aaron






Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.

Sounds like someone has removed the heat shield from the starter motor.

Down load the Repair Operation Manual here: [url="http://homepage.mac.com/WebObjects/FileSharing.woa/28/wo/YVwqKYyV9VBZ6TWD.1/0.2.1.2.26.31.97.0.35.0.1.1.1?user=jclaythompson&fpath=Triumph_Articles&templatefn=FileSharing4.html"]TR7man.pdf[/url]